Morven Park

Posted on December 13, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Leesburg, Virginia

Morven Park isn’t just another pretty mansion; it’s a grand country house with a fascinating past. For 40 years this was the home of Westmoreland Davis, Virginia’s 55th governor and advocate for the farmers whose land dotted the surrounding countryside. Today it’s a National Register Historic Property to enjoy for all seasons, especially near the winter holidays.

Morven Park, the former home of Virginia’s 55th governor, is particularly inviting when blanketed with snow. Photo courtesy of Morven Park.

Even without its finery of mistletoe and holly, the former home of Westmoreland and Marguerite Davis would still be warm and welcoming – the kind of mansion you could really cozy up to and call home.

The mansion’s Trophy Room is the ultimate man cave, with rich wood paneling on the ceiling and walls. Photo by Paul Jean.

The style in which the Davises chose to decorate their Greek Revival residence might best be described as eclectic, reflecting their personal taste with objects collected on trips to Europe, Asia and Africa combined with inherited pieces from the estate of Marguerite’s parents. Tours are held daily, so you can learn more about the lives of the people who called Morven Park home.

The Renaissance Great Hall that greets visitors to the Greek Revival mansion showcases rare Flemish tapestry. Photo courtesy of Morven Park.

Westmoreland Davis was raised in Virginia and attended VMI and UVA before studying at Columbia Law School and taking up residence in New York. He built his law practice there and met Marguerite in 1892, when he was hired to settle the estate of her parents. The two married one year later in London, when he was 33 and she was just 22.

When Davis returned to Virginia and purchased Morven Park in 1903, it was already a substantial home with the latest styles and newest innovations. They did not alter the house much, but instead chose to adapt their lifestyles to mesh with the unusual layout.

The holiday dining table is set as it might have been for the guests of Marguerite and Westmoreland Davis. Photo by Paul Jean.

The Davises especially enjoyed equestrian sports – fox hunting, carriage driving and horse riding – and the successful young lawyer was elected Master of Fox Hounds for the Loudoun Hunt in 1906. This was a pivotal point in his life, connecting him with local farmers who explained the issues that were important to them.

He began to read Southern Planter magazine, and extracted information from its articles to revitalize his own farm at Morven Park, transforming it into a model of innovation, science and efficiency. During this time, he also lobbied Richmond for laws that would benefit farmers.

Westmoreland Davis spent a great deal of time in his library, researching new agricultural approaches and techniques. Photo by Paul Jean.

Davis purchased Southern Planter in 1912 and used it as a tool for sharing new ideas, writing educational tutorials and rallying farmers to make their voices heard in state government. By 1915 Davis had made vast improvements to the lives of rural Virginians, and he decided that he wanted to continue his work at a higher level. In 1917 he tossed his hat in the ring, and his campaign proved successful.

From 1918 until 1922, he and Marguerite lived in the Governor’s Mansion in Richmond, and he brought about significant change for the state, reforming its outdated education, transportation, medical, prison and budgetary systems. When his term was over, the Davises returned to Morven Park and immediately started campaigning for the US Senate, but the run was unsuccessful. He retired at his beloved home in the country.

The Davises remained active in the community, and they lived here until his death in 1942. Today Morven Park is dedicated to honoring the life and mission of Westmoreland Davis and to preserving Virginia’s rural history and culture.

A guided tour is $5 for adults and $3 for children ages 6-12, offering insight about the mansion and its owners. Professionally trained historic interpreters bring visitors inside this world of not one but two governors –Governor Thomas Swann of Maryland was the 19th century owner of the estate, responsible for the park-like gardens that Marguerite would later rejuvenate.

The furnishings and décor you’ll see are those of Westmoreland and Marguerite Davis, circa 1920. The elaborate entrance hall features a series of four 16th century Brabant tapestries, thought to be originally part of the Royal Spanish collection.

The mansion’s expansive kitchen features abundant storage space and a then state-of-the-art refrigerator. Photo by Paul Jean.

Also on the tour is the Jacobean dining room that appears ready to host a holiday feast, as well as the French drawing room where visitors were entertained, and the library where Davis did much of his reading and research. Glancing at the volumes on the walls, it’s obvious that he was an intellectually curious person of tremendously varied interests.

Displays in the Trophy Room remind visitors that the former residents enjoyed the thrill of the hunt. Photo by Paul Jean.

The Winmill Carriage Museum is located on the property, showcasing a wide variety of antique vehicles from the 19th and 20th centuries, donated by the late Viola Winmill of Warrenton. Of particular interest is the road coach of General Tom Thumb, famed diminutive performer with the Barnum and Bailey Circus.

The collection also runs to the wonderfully exotic, with a colorfully painted donkey cart from Sicily and a Russian-style sleigh that’s worthy of Santa’s annual ride. A tour that includes both the mansion and the carriage collection is $9 for adults and $5 for children ages 6-12.

This horse-drawn carriage, known as a caleche, was the forerunner to today’s convertible. Photo courtesy of Morven Park.

Round out the day at the Museum of Hounds and Hunting, located in the North Wing of the mansion. Here the oil paintings of 20th-century sporting artist John Bowles are on display, as well as two multi-media exhibits featuring the life-size workshops of a harness maker and a farrier. Admission is free, and hours are the same as for Morven Park.

Morven Park is beautifully situated on over 1,000 acres. When weather permits, a self-guided tour of replica Civil War huts is available for $3 per adult, with children ages 11 and under admitted free.

An Antiques Appraisal with Ben Hastings will be held on December 17 at 11:30 a.m., and the First Lady of Virginia’s Holiday Tea will be offered on December 18 at 1 p.m. For additional information and reservations to these events, visit www.morvenpark.org.

When you go …

  • Morven Park is open from noon to 4 p.m., except Christmas and New Year’s Day.
  • Tours are offered every half hour, with the last tour starting at 3 p.m.
  • The mansion will be closed from January 9-February 29, 2012 for deep cleaning.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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Seasons Greenings at the US Botanic Garden

Posted on December 6, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination:Washington,DC

The Giraffe Garage is a favorite among visitors to Seasons Greenings at the US Botanic Garden. All photos by Paul Jean.

The US Botanic Garden has hosted a woodsy wonderland of model railroading every holiday season since 2004. This year’s Garden Railway is the best yet, featuring over 800 feet of track, dozens of bridges and a waterfall, all set in a whimsical world that delights dreamers of all ages.

Landscape architect Paul Busse is a magician. From nature’s bounty of twigs, leaves, pine cone scales, acorns, and grapevine tendrils – the stuff we crunch underfoot in the forest – he conjures a fantastical setting where anything is possible.

Busse and his company, Applied Imagination of Alexandria, Kentucky, are best known for their detailed horticultural renderings of famous buildings. DC’s own landmarks are tucked among huge pots of poinsettia plants in the Garden Court, and you’ll enjoy seeing some of them as you wait to enter the East Gallery for the main event, where the style of his work changes dramatically.

Trains wind through villages and pass over bridges made of plants and other horticultural materials.

The door to the Garden Railway exhibit is a portal to another dimension. Dwellings made from plants and other earthy materials bear more than a passing resemblance to their inhabitants, and kids revel in a game of “Who lives here.” Parents can’t help pondering the vast amount of talent, creativity and effort that has gone into miniature masterpieces with names like Monkey Mansion, Porcupine Place, and Hummingbird Home.

The Peacock Palace is a spectacular example of the talent and creativity behind Paul Busse’s work.

Multiple trains – including a B&O freight train and a Thomas the Tank Engine – clickity clack along tracks and wend through villages. Kids and limber adults crawl through a tunnel featuring lighted vignettes built into its walls, where it appears that critters are enjoying all the creature comforts.

Trains travel ‘round the bend in the enchanting enclave.

Comfort is, in fact, the operative word of the day. It’s in the scent of cedar, the lushness of the greenery and the otherworldliness of the design. You want to believe this enchanted enclave really is inhabited by tiny woodland animals, and the kid in you does.

The exhibit ends with a cluster of famous homes –Mount Vernon and Monticello included – and exits back into the Garden Court, where you can take a closer look at Busse’s models of the Washington Monument, Library of Congress, White House and buildings along the Mall. The Capitol Hill layout under the tree is a great place to snap seasonal photos for family and friends.

The US Capitol Building has a prominent place in the Garden Court.

The room features holiday music, a reflecting pool and more heady scents – with camellia added to the mix. You might be tempted to park yourself on a bench to become blissfully sedated for the remainder of the day, but don’t. Ecosystems of the world await.

Enter The Jungle through its sealed glass doors, and you’ll immediately know the humidity level has been stepped up quite a few notches to support abundant palm trees, prayer plants and bromeliads – all plants we try – and often fail — to grow at home.

This Coral Aphelandra is one of the tropical plants in the Jungle Room.

Wooden walkways and stone bridges are enveloped by greenery, and a catwalk crawling with vines lets you walk along treetops, al a George of the Jungle. Back on terra firma, a children’s garden is a fantasy of topiary, ferns and blossoms, and holiday ornaments dot the landscape just to remind you that you’re in DC and not some faraway place.

The transition to World Desserts is a bit jarring, with red rocks and prickly cacti in sharp contrast to the preceding room. But a dry, minerally breeze stirs, and the beauty of the dessert becomes apparent with its vibrant flowers sprinkled among muted tones.

A lone cactus flower reveals the softer side of the dessert.

In Hawaii, a waterfall and stone archway surrounded by cool, green lusciousness bring to life the marketing phrase “Land of Enchantment.” And at the Garden Primeval, a glorious mystery is revealed: Where did all our flowers come from?

The plants here are representative of vegetation that dominated the earth 150 million years ago, during the Jurassic Period. Kids are naturally delighted by macabre carnivorous plants, letting imaginations run wild. It’s easy when you’ve stepped back in time and are standing next to a pond that looks like the manifestation of primordial soup.

An exhibit on Medicinal Plants showcases the usual suspects – aloe, ginger, lavender, coffee, tea and herbs – as well as witch hazel, goldenseal wild cherry and other homeopathic remedies used to cure everything from bad breath to insomnia. You’ll feel better just breathing the air.

North America boasts over 140 varieties of orchids, and several are on display in the Orchid Room.

The Orchid Room is a spectacular conclusion to the day – blooms that range from soft and subdued to bold and happy are set against a backdrop of mossy rocks, deep green leaves and babbling brook. Blood pressure drops, the spirit soars and the frenzied nature of the holiday season melts away, if just for a few hours. The Garden Railway exhibit runs through January 2.

When you go …

  • The U.S. Botanic Garden is at 100 Maryland Avenue SW, next to the Capitol Building.
  • Limited metered parking spaces are available in the adjacent parking lot.
  • The nearest Metro stops are Federal Center SW or Capitol South.
  • Directions and detailed information are available at www.usbg.gov.
  • Admission is free, and the US Botanic Garden is open every day from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m.
  • Hours extend to 8 p.m. on Tuesday and Thursday, featuring live holiday music.

Live Holiday Music Schedule

A model of the US Botanic Garden is found in the West Gallery, along with interactive stations and educational exhibits.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

 

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ICE! Warms the Heart with Merry Madagascar

Posted on November 29, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: National Harbor, Maryland

Not in the holiday mood yet? A visit to the Gaylord Hotel at the National Harbor will surely banish the blues. That’s the magic of ICE!, a 15,000 square foot extravaganza that’s been hand carved entirely from two million pounds of frozen H2O.

The ice artisans of China’s northernmost province bring the story of Merry Madagascar to life, using traditional tools and techniques. All photos by Paul Jean.

This year the Gaylord has teamed up with DreamWorks Animation, bringing Merry Madagascar to life with sparkling scenes from the 30-minute holiday special. Before you enter the highly insulated nine-degree pavilion, you’ll be asked to don a big blue parka that has been specially designed for the task. Yes, it will make your butt look fat; but it will keep you toasty warm, too.

Next you’ll walk through jaw-dropping scenes of our favorite expats from Central Park as they help Santa save Christmas. It seems the jolly old elf has crash landed on the island of Madagascar and suffered an acute case of amnesia.

Alex, Marty, Gloria, Melman and the wacky penguins commandeer Santa’s sleigh and deliver presents to the children of the world. Even King Julian learns that it’s better to give than to receive, getting himself removed from Santa’s naughty list for good.

The plot may be simple, but this is definitely not child’s play. Forty master carvers from Harbin, China– famous for its 100-acre Ice and Snow Festival – traveled halfway around the world to recreate the DreamWorks story of Merry Madagascar. The artisans have devoted over 30 days to meticulously sculpting the 5,000 blocks of ice using traditional tools and techniques.

Alex, Marty, Gloria and Melman watch as Santa crash lands on the island of Madagascar.

Since each block is nearly 400 pounds, the entire display weighs in at about one thousand tons. The ice is custom made in Ohio in three varieties – crystal clear, opaque and colored – then shipped to the Gaylord to be carved on location in carefully monitored conditions. ICE! is as much a feat of engineering as it is a work of art.

The centerpiece of the winter wonderland is a set of towering ice slides that whisks riders down two stories and past the Statue of Liberty, Big Ben, the Eiffel Tower and other sights our heroes enjoyed during their trip around the world. ICE! is literally and figuratively over the top.

The four friends save Christmas by delivering toys to the children of the world, and a two-story set of ice slides recreates their journey.

The last room of ice sculptures is a nod to more traditional symbols of the season, rendered in glistening, crystal clear ice that’s in stark contrast to the cartoonish hues of Merry Madagascar. It’s a great note to end on, leaving this visitor wondering how it’s possible to feel so warm and fuzzy while surrounded by two million pounds of ice.

Exit from the pavilion is made through a gift shop, where you can purchase a commemorative photo, souvenirs, snacks and drinks. DreamWorks characters offer hugs and photo opportunities and are found just outside the exhibit, along with an ice skating rink and the Potomac Express ride-on train.

Kids can take a ride on the Potomac Express for an additional fee.

When you go:

  • ICE! Merry Madagascar runs from November 18, 2011 – January 8, 2012.
  • Admission is $25-35 for adults (13 and up), $20-30 for kids (4-12).
  • Tickets are limited and may be purchased online to ensure admission.
  • Ice skating and train ride are offered at extra cost.
  • For hours of operation, visit their website. (www.christmasonthepotomac.com.)
  • Park in the self-parking garage at a special rate of $10 (up to three hours).

The Gaylord Hotel’s atrium is all decked out for the holidays.

Christmas on the Potomac
ICE! is part of the larger Christmas on thePotomaccelebration, now in its fourth year at the Gaylord. Attracting over 250,000 visitors annually, it’s been deemed one of the 12 most festive places to find the holiday spirit by AAA Magazine.

If ICE! Merry Madagascar isn’t enough to snap you out of your funk, visit the Gaylord’s atrium, where millions of lights twinkle and snow falls indoors– yes, seriously – every day.

Some timed events are free and worth planning around, including nightly tree lighting by DreamWorks characters with the aforementioned indoor snowfall at 6:30 p.m. Water is choreographed to dance to traditional holiday music in the Brightest Star Fountain show at 9:30 p.m., with a narration of the classic Christmas story featured.

Other events are offered for an additional charge. Gingy, the larger-than-life gingerbread man of Shrek fame, is hosting his own cookie event. Gingerbread houses and/or families are available to purchase and decorate, and packages include visits with Gingy. Be sure to bring your camera to capture the fun.

Gingy inspires kids to decorate gingerbread houses, people, cat and dogs.

Santa will be in the atrium, and you can visit and have a photo taken on weekdays from noon to 9 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays from 3 to 9 p.m. Brunch with Santa is offered on weekends from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Even the trees are decorated, making the Gaylord holiday central at the National Harbor.

But wait, there’s more …
The National Harbor hosts numerous events this season. Friday nights through December 23 feature fireworks, food and fun from 6 to 9 p.m., with a tree lighting at 7 p.m. and the fireworks immediately after.

The Hot Chocolate 5K/15K is scheduled for December 3 at 7:30 p.m., and the 26th Annual Waterskiing Santa can be seen on December 24 at 1 p.m. The National Children’s Museum Launch Zone and many of the shops and restaurants at the National Harbor are also celebrating the season with special attractions and offers.

A 60-foot tall “candy” glass tree is suspended above the Gaylord Hotel's atrium and lit every night at 6:30 p.m.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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All Aboard for Holiday Fun at the B&O Railroad Museum

Posted on November 22, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Baltimore, Maryland

A visit to the B&O Museum in Baltimore makes a great day trip for all ages at any time of year. They’ve just finished decking the halls – along with their spectacular roundhouse –and this weekend they’ll kick off seasonal events that every member of the family will enjoy.

Santa and Mrs. Claus welcome visitors to participate in a wide range of holiday activities at the B&O Museum in Baltimore. Courtesy of the B&O Railroad Museum.

This is the birthplace of American railroading. On July 4, 1828 the last living signer of the Declaration of Independence laid the inaugural stone for mile one of America’s first commercial train track. On this 40 acre site that railroad buffs consider hallowed ground, passenger cars were built and repaired, timetables and publicity materials were printed, and people devoted their lives to working on the railroad.

The Annex Building (circa 1891) houses the main entrance to the museum, as well as a gift shop and exhibition gallery. After parking among a sea of locomotives and other impressive heavy machinery, step inside the building, buy a ticket and prepare to stay a while.

The yard outside the roundhouse offers a carousel, ride-on train, G-scale train layouts and rolling stock you can walk through. Photo by Paul Jean.

The architecturally striking 1884 Baldwin Roundhouse was originally built as a railroad car repair shop, and it now hosts a significant collection of locomotives and rolling stock, along with smaller historic items. The Alex Brown & Sons Exhibition Gallery showcases the timepieces, lanterns, dining car china, signals, and tools of the trade used by people who made the great machine work.

The ceiling of the roundhouse, rebuilt after severe damage was sustained during a 2003 snowstorm, has been fully restored. Photo by Paul Jean.

A cutaway display exposes a 60-foot wide turntable that was central to the operation. Workers used it to shuttle trains weighing up to 50 tons in and out of their bays – where restored beauties are parked today – with an aptly named, hand-operated Armstrong devise. Docents are available to answer questions and give tours, helping to bring the collection into focus and put it in context.

The 1863 Thatcher Perkins steam locomotive was used to tackle the tough mountain grades of West Virginia. Photo by Paul Jean.

To commemorate the sesquicentennial anniversary of the Civil War, the museum is proud to host The War Came by Train. The five-year-long exhibit features the largest collection of Civil War railroad equipment in the world, along with life-size dioramas, artifacts of interest on loan from other institutions, and a train ride to the site of the largest Union soldier encampment in Baltimore.

This passenger coach, featured in many pageants, fairs and movies, is typical of Civil War era train transportation. Photo by Paul Jean.

The B&O Passenger Car Works, located next to the roundhouse, was completed in the 1870s and used to build, refurbish and repair passenger cars. Now the structure holds some of the museum’s most impressive steam and diesel engines and offers the visitor a rare opportunity to climb aboard and play engineer.

The North Car Shop of the B&O Passenger Car Works houses some of the museum’s most significant steam and diesel engines. Photo by Paul Jean.

Beginning on November 25, the Baldwin Roundhouse will host the layout of a different model railroading club each weekend. Kicking off the season from November 25-27 is a LEGO train display constructed entirely of the patented plastic blocks – right down to its track – and created by the Washington DC Metropolitan Area LEGO Train Club. In addition, live entertainment will be provided by local choral and dance groups.

New this year is an operational, floor-level G-scale layout, in addition to indoor train carousel rides, Santa’s Workshop and a North Pole Postage Bag. The museum supports the US Marine Corp’s Toys for Tots Program, and visitors bringing an unwrapped, new toy with them receive 50 percent off admission until December 18. Toys purchased in the gift shop for donation will be sold at a discount.

Photo opportunities and train rides with Santa will be offered during weekends through December 18, and then Frosty will take over for the remainder of the month. The train travels along the first commercial mile of track laid in America, and on Saturday, December 3 you can ride it to visit Mount Clare, the home of B&O founder Charles Carroll.

The grounds of his 1760 Colonial Georgian mansion are steeped in Civil War history. Camp Carroll was established as a training camp for US soldiers, and it was in use continuously until the end of the war in 1865.

The Mount Clare mansion will be adorned with traditional 18th and 19th century holiday decorations – fruit, nuts, pine cones and feathers – and admission is included with the price of the train ticket ($8 for adults, $7 for children and reduced rates for seniors and B&O members). The Mount Clare train runs at 11 a.m., noon, 1 p.m. and 2 p.m.

A walk through the C&O coach in the yard rewards visitors with a detailed layout of Baltimore, the way it was. Photo by Paul Jean.

Be sure to explore the attractions in the cars along the platforms in the yard, including an HO-scale layout of 20th century Baltimore designed by Jeff Springer and permanently displayed in a restored C&O coach. The nearby theater car shows short films if the family needs to chill after a bout of sensory overload. And the last in the line is a charming caboose, of course.

Visitors to the B&O Railroad Museum in Baltimore have a rare opportunity to see, touch, hear and explore the oldest, most significant train collection in the Western Hemisphere. The museum showcases an unparalleled line-up of 19th and 20th century railroad equipment, providing an impressive backdrop for over-the-top winter fun for the entire month of December.

Built in 1929, this caboose has a cupola that kids love to climb in with a view train buffs love. Photo by Paul Jean.

When you go …

  • Hours: Monday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. and Sunday, 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.
  • Admission: $14 for adults, $12 for seniors, and $8 for children 2-12.
  • Train ride, carousel ride and photography are available for additional fees.
  • On site parking is abundant and free.
  • For a complete schedule of displays and events, visit www.borail.org.

The circa 1883 Iron Pot Hopper was used to haul 20 tons of coal, at a time when other railroads were still using wooden gondolas. Photo by Paul Jean.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean, except as noted. All rights reserved.

Gallery of Historic Images

All images courtesy of the Library of Congress, Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division Washington, D.C. 20540 USA.

1. B&O Railroad, Mount Clare Train Station, 1936

Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Mount Clare Station, 500 block West Pratt Street, Baltimore, Independent City, MD. Historic American Buildings Survey, E.H. Pickering, Photographer, August 1936. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HABS MD, 4-BALT, 51--1

The following images come from a Historic American Engineering Record collection available from the Library of Congress.  The significance of these railroad structures are captured in notes provided with the photos:

“Mount Clare Shops were the earliest railroad shops in the western hemisphere, if not the world. The B & O had a facility at this site since 1829. At its height, it was the most comprehensive, self-contained shop complex producing everything from steam locomotives, freight and passenger cars, bridges, small hardware and building components for use throughout the system. Operations included metal casting, forging and machinery, wood working and boiler making. After years of diminishing operations as craftsmen retired, and work was either produced elsewhere on the system or purchased, the shops were demolished in 1974. The B & O Transportation Museum uses Mount Clare Station, the circular passenger car-shop, the print shop, the paint and repair shop and the electrical pipe and hardware shop for museum purposes.”

2. B&O Railroad, Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop & Paint Shop

RAILROAD TRRACKS LEADING TO PAINT & REPAIR SHOP; PASSENGER CAR SHOP TO THE LEFT - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop, Southwest corner of Pratt & Poppleton Streets, Baltimore, Independent City, MD. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 4-BALT, 127--5

3. B&O Railroad, Cupola Atop Passenger Car Shop

GENERAL VIEW OF CUPOLA ATOP PASSENGER CAR SHOP - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 4-BALT, 127--4

4. B&O Railroad, Arial View of Museum Collection

AERIAL VIEW OF ENGINE DISPLAY INSIDE PASSENGER CAR SHOP (NOW A TRANSPORTATION MUSEUM) - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 4-BALT, 127--14

5. B&O Railroad Museum, Damage from Collapsed Roof, February 2003

View northwest from damaged roof area. - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 4-BALT, 127--21

6.  B&O Railroad Museum, Repairs to Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop

Exterior view, from west - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Mount Clare Passenger Car Shop, Southwest corner of Pratt & Poppleton Streets, Baltimore, MD. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 4-BALT, 127--25

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What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam?

Posted on November 15, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Washington, DC

We’re a nation of foodies, with chefs who have been elevated to celebrity status. While America’s relationship with food is certainly complex and often maligned, an exhibit at the National Archives examines the unique role that one major player has carved. And a visit to America Eats Tavern, a nicely coordinated pop-up restaurant, puts the point on your plate.

"What’s Cooking Uncle Sam" explores our government’s influence on what we eat; it will be featured at the National Archives until January 3. Photo by Paul Jean.

“What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam,” on display through January 3, explores the influence of our government on the American diet – from farm to factory and kitchen to table. Over 100 original documents, records and artifacts are arranged in several galleries that include over 500 items to tell an engaging story that, by the end, makes Uncle Sam resemble Big Brother … just a little bit.

To be fair, Americans have always demanded that food be safe, cheap, abundant and varied. Founding Foodie Thomas Jefferson smuggled rice out of Italy– a crime punishable by death – in his quest to find a more attractive grain. Agricultural explorers were later sent around the world to collect unknown species, study inventive methods of farming and learn about how new plants were used.

One such explorer crossed mountains and deserts, encountered ferocious wildlife and ultimately met his mysterious demise, all while roaming the planet in search of good things to eat. Among the legacies of Frank Meyer are the enjoyment of both a less acidic lemon and a de-puckered persimmon. A map detailing his travels is featured, along with journal entries, photos and striking artwork of his finds.

Uncle Sam’s recommendations for healthy eating would certainly have made Paula Deen proud, with a separate food group for butter. Photo courtesy of the National Archives.

With the rise of the industrial era came a shift to producing food in factories, ushering in government efforts to ensure safety. The most notable event of the time was the publication of The Jungle by Upton Sinclair, revealing the poor labor conditions and unsanitary environment in the meatpacking industry. Sinclair’s letter to Theodore Roosevelt, calling for reform and leading to the Pure Food and Drug Act, is on display.

Also featured are mug shots of margarine bootleggers of the late 19th century, convicted for concocting their own black market alternative to the pricey spread from France. While the crime may seem frivolous today, the culprits served hard time in the federal pen at Leavenworth.

Uncle Sam has a knack for utilizing graphic arts and marketing ploys to influence what we stock in our pantries. The Food Wheel was introduced in 1943 – on which butter had its very own food group – and proper eating habits were deemed a matter of national security. Victory gardens were promoted to instill a sense of patriotism, and they yielded 40% of the produce eaten in the United States at that time.

Propaganda posters instructed Americans to “Know your onions,” “Can all you eat,” and “Eat the carp,” all catchy sayings to aid the war effort. Vitamin donuts were touted as a nutritious energy food, and the Donut Corporation of America’s lobbying efforts to market them as health food are included here.

This propaganda poster from the WWII era is available at the National Archives Print Shop. Photo courtesy of the National Archives.

The Food Wheel gave way to the Food Pyramid, which gave way to the Food Plate of today. And the items on that plate have evolved considerably, in part because of the taste buds of our Commanders in Chief.

JFK loved a good clam bake, LBJ exercised BBQ diplomacy and Ronald Reagan was known to scarf down jelly beans, but Richard Nixon probably made the most significant impact on our table – or at least on our takeout habits –during a historic goodwill trip to China in 1972.

The protocol memo gifting him with chopsticks and encouraging him to become comfortable with them is included in the exhibit. Nixon used his new skills in Peking to enjoy Four Treasures of Duck, inspiring millions of Americans to venture beyond Chop Suey and Fried Rice.

What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam examines our national obsession as only the National Archives could, stringing together pieces of the past in a thoughtful exhibit that give us a new understanding of who we are and why we do what we do. Visiting after the biggest eating holiday of the year is just icing on the cake.

When you go …

  • Hours: 9 a.m. – 5:30 p.m., with last entry at 5 p.m.
  • Admission: free
  • The exhibit closes on January 3, 2012.
  • The closest Metro station is Archive/Navy Memorial.

America Eats Tavern
Fine dining meets performance art at America Eats Tavern, a pop-up restaurant located at 405 8th Street NW and owned by celebrity chef Jose Andres, Rob Wilder and the ThinkFoodGroup partners.

The first floor of America Eats Tavern is stylishly comfortable and features a staple of the American restaurant: a well-stocked bar. Photo by Paul Jean.

The new venture has added to Chef Andres’ long list of credits: He’s written three cook books, hosted a 26-part series on public TV, and appeared on 60 Minutes, The Ellen DeGeneres Show and No Reservations. Heck, he even beat Bobby Flay in an Iron Chef competition. Now he’s the force behind America Eats Tavern.

Inspired by What’s Cooking, Uncle Sam, this temporary restaurant/cultural experience runs in tandem with the exhibit and is scheduled to close on January 3. The fleeting nature of the place lends an air of excitement to the visit, as does the upbeat setting.

The evolution of our country’s eating habits – and the history of the government’s influence on them – are presented in a menu that reads much like a history lesson. But history never tasted so good.

SEED Design Studio crafted the renovation of America Eats Tavern, showcasing a “window into America” chandelier. Photo by Paul Jean.

First off, order the biscuits and cranberry butter, mainly because they are heavenly. And while the theme here is American, the portion sizes are not — you will appreciate having something to munch on with your meal.

The menu celebrates the history of our dishes by telling colorful stories about the people who made them famous. The culinary representation that you are presented with conveys its spirit, as seen through the eyes of Chef Andres. You’ll be eating Hang Town Fry like a forty-niner who’s just struck it rich, but yours will be prettier and taste a whole lot better.

Reservations are recommended but not required. First floor dining is casual and available all day. Upstairs dining is more formal and more limited. For hours of operation, visit www.americaeatstavern.com.

The kitchen is a happening place that’s open for all to see. Photo by Paul Jean.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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National Museum of the Marine Corps

Posted on November 8, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Quantico, Virginia

On November 11, 2006 the National Museum of the Marine Corps was established to honor the commitment, accomplishment and sacrifice of the US Marines. What better way to spend this weekend than learning about the over 200 years of dedication, honor and courage of our soldiers that are the “first to fight for right and freedom?”

Over the Leatherneck Gallery an AV-8B-Harrier jump jet is suspended, along with two deadly Corsair fighters from WWII and a Curtiss Jenny from the 1920s. All photos by Paul Jean.

The building itself evokes an elegant sense of pride, with its signature 210-foot stainless steel spire modeled after the raising of the flag over Iwo Jima. This iconic silhouette, beckoning travelers along I-95, has been recognized as an architectural treasure since its addition to our skyline five years ago.

Inside, state-of-the-art multimedia technology lends amazing realism to life-size wax figures in dioramas illustrating American history through the eyes of the Marines. And you are right there with them.

Assault from the Sky depicts doggedly determined warriors jumping out of a Sikorsky helicopter and into the main rotunda. Suddenly we’re transported back to Korea, and the year is 1950. We witness the technique of vertical envelopment, a Marine innovation still in use today, and only the glass ceiling panels overhead threaten to break the spell.

In Assault by Air, a Sikorsky HRS-2 helicopter disembarks a machine gun unit onto a Korean War position.

Not so inside the museum’s galleries, leading from the inception of the Marines in 1775 to the present day. In several instances the visitor is directly deposited into a major US conflict, and the lack of anchors to our current time and place is both breathtaking and jarring.

On the Toktong Pass near Chosin Reservoir we join the Marines – literally – while they prepare for attack by advancing Chinese soldiers. They’re weary, dangerously short on ammunition and frozen to the bone, and we share a blast of cold air with them.

Surrounded and outnumbered, troops nicknamed the Frozen Chosin successfully broke free and inflicted crippling losses on the Chinese. It’s no small wonder that the safest place in Korea was deemed to be, “Right behind a platoon of Marines” by US Army Major General Frank E. Lowe. He went on to remark, “Lord, how they could fight.”

In the Vietnam War gallery, walk through a helicopter that’s been cutaway and transformed into a gateway to Hill 881, and listen to the pilot communicating with Marines on the ground. Emerge to a blast of jungle air and the sounds of combat. The deft combination of a detailed mural, sound effects and actual equipment brings the perilous scene to life.

Visitors are transported into a hot landing zone via CH-46 helicopter in the Vietnam War Gallery.

The collective psyche of the Marines is explored in a brief documentary shown in the Scuttlebutt Theater. Here we learn about the spirit, heritage and responsibility that make the Marines unique, with shared traditions going back to Tun Tavern. A strong sense of sacrifice is revealed through their many voices, which describe a team where “uncommon valor is a common virtue.”

Young visitors to the museum will enjoy a rifle range with laser simulator that lets you test your skills for $5 and try to earn an exclusive challenge coin. The day’s high scores are usually posted, and many times they’ve been attained by Marines.

The soaring design of the National Museum of the Marine Corps is a lasting tribute to the US Marines.

The final exhibit depicts the country’s ongoing War on Terrorism. Featured are a fragment from the Pentagon in Arlington and an I-beam from the World Trade Center in New York City.

The designers and architects behind this world-class museum have captured the essence of far-away times and places with authenticity and dignity, avoiding the pitfalls of sensationalism and high drama. To accomplish this, they surveyed trenches in Germany, trudged through wheat fields in France, crawled through tunnels in Japan and spent a fair amount of time in boot camp and on the sea.

As a result of their thoughtful approach and accurate interpretation, the museum captures the historic events of our nation’s conflicts while conveying the resolve, spirit and discipline of the US Marine Corps.

When you go…

  • Admission and parking are free, and donations are accepted.
  • Hours are from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. every day except Christmas.
  • Allow at 3 – 4 hours to enjoy all of the museum’s galleries.
  • The store features souvenirs, field rations, ornaments and stocking stuffers.
  • The 200,000-square-foot facility is situated on 134 acres.
  • Grounds include a picnic area, playground, contemplative walk and chapel.

For a Square Meal … Marine Style

The museum offers two dining venues: Tun Tavern and the Mess Hall.

November 10, 1775 is widely recognized as the day the US Marine Corps was born, in Philadelphia’s original Tun Tavern, and so the museum’s Tun Tavern seeks to capture the look and feel of a Colonial brew house. Large paintings depicting famous Marines are displayed on the walls, and meals are reminiscent of food from the era.

The bill of fare includes soups, salads and sandwiches, as well as hearty dishes like roasted turkey with pan gravy and open-face roast beef. Apple dumplings, bread pudding and chocolate brownies with ice cream ensure that nobody goes home hungry. A children’s menu is available. Tun Tavern opens at 9 a.m. and closes at 4 p.m. every day.

Visit the Mess Hall to dine cafeteria-style on homemade soup, pizza and chili, in addition to grab-and-go items and sandwiches. The Mess Hall is open from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily and also welcomes children.

The museum’s Tun Tavern captures the warmth of the original and features food inspired by the Colonial era.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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National Museum of Crime and Punishment

Posted on November 1, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Penn Quarter, Washington, D.C.

The National Museum of Crime and Punishment boasts over 25,000 square feet of murder, mayhem and misdemeanor. And while they like to claim that a visit is “so much fun, it’s a crime,” their emphasis on retribution underscores the point that this is no laughing matter.

The National Museum of Crime and Punishment is located in a stylishly renovated building in DC’s Penn Quarter. All photos by Paul Jean.

The cat-and-mouse dance of law enforcer and evil doer is a prevalent theme in five distinct galleries that delve into the study of criminal intent, criminal profiling, the penal system and more. Where else can you gaze into the mind of a serial killer?

Ted Bundy’s ‘68 Volkswagen greets you in the lobby, where you can see the diabolically redesigned vehicle where he lured victims and unwittingly left vital forensic evidence behind. You’ll have barely touched the tip of the iceberg, but you’ll be hooked for the rest of the day.

The evolution of crime and punishment throughout history is explored, beginning with inhumane devices of the Middle Ages. And an exhibit on America’s first criminals illustrates how the moral and upstanding folk of Colonial America dealt with the crime of kissing your wife on the Sabbath.

As the country grew westward the outlaw was born, followed by the cold blooded bank robber of the Great Depression. One highlight of the museum is Bonnie and Clyde’s car, a replica of their 1934 Ford, complete with 167 authentically placed bullet holes.

When America got all mobbed up Al Capone became its most notorious criminal, and his luxurious cell from Eastern State Penitentiary is recreated in vivid detail. In addition, prison culture is illustrated with an inmate art gallery, a nifty collection of shivs and an entire wall devoted to decoding tattoos.

An exhibit about Capone’s incarceration hints that he may have still wielded power at Eastern State Penitentiary, but not at Alcatraz.

The most chilling artifact of all is Tennessee’s venerable Old Smokey, the workhorse that administered countless volts of justice to 125 inmates. A stainless steel gas chamber is modern by comparison and eerie with sound effects.

Cell Block A is more typical of the prison experience, with a cell you can visit – and even break out of.

Armchair detectives will love the interactive nature of this museum. A patrol car simulator puts you in the driver’s seat to pursue a perp through city streets, and the firearms training scenario has you busting a meth house and making the kill shot.

The museum’s patrol car simulator is the same as those used by police academies to train officers.

The Crime Lab explains the science of analyzing footprints, fingerprints and ballistics, and now offers a Unabomber exhibit featuring Ted Kaczynski’s personal belongings. But the star of this gallery is its cadaver on an interactive autopsy table. Yes, seriously.

The Crime Lab features interactive exhibits that help you imagine the work of a forensics specialist.

John Walsh hosts America’s Most Wanted, and he sometimes films on a stage in the museum.

The America’s Most Wanted stage is found in the basement and serves as home to occasional broadcasts of the show that is responsible for the apprehension of over 1,000 criminals.

While the National Museum of Crime and Punishment’s displays are state-of-the-art and glitzy, they avoid glamorizing a life of crime. Everyday heroes from local police officers and forensic specialists to FBI agents and profilers are the real stars of this show.

Exploring the Neighborhood
Penn Quarter … where there’s plenty to eat and a Starbucks on every block. The stretch of Seventh Street between Chinatown and Pennsylvania Avenue has undergone a revitalization that’s transformed it into a destination for food lovers and sightseers.

Penn Quarter is a likeable neighborhood of food and fun in the heart of DC.

The vibrant community includes the Warner, National, Shakespeare, Wooly Mammoth and Ford’s Theaters, as well as numerous museums. Spectators flock to the Verizon Center for Washington Wizards and Capitals games, and all those hungry fans need food. Lots and lots of food.

Legal Seafood will put you on the right side of the law after a day of crime and punishment. This is the place to grab a cup of chowder, a lobster roll and a microbrew. An All Day Menu features portions that are easier on the wallet and waistline.

Carmine’s serves meals family style, so bring your appetite – or some friends – to share the usual suspects from New York – lasagna, chicken parm and shrimp scampi. The 5-liter bottle of sangiovese is also meant to share – with 14 of your closest friends.

There really is a Starbucks on every block – three in all.

Jaleo introduced tapas – Spain’s traditional small plates that are big on flavor – to the area. Authentic paellas, grilled meats and cheese plates are featured, along with seafood and veggie offerings. Sangria and sherries are featured.

District Chop House and Brewery is unabashedly masculine and known for steakhouse classics paired with handcrafted ales that are brewed onsite. Weekend brunch offers the Chophouse spin on breakfast classics.

Clyde’s at Gallery Place also serves brunch in a setting that blends the Victorian era with Asian influences. The menu includes Clyde’s famous crab cakes and seasonal specials, as well as favorites from their other locations in the Metro area.

Red Velvet Cupcakery has added Hazelnut Café and gluten-free White Velvet cupcakes to its line-up of classics like Devil’s Food and Carrot Cake. This is the best place to grab a portable bit of comfort food.

Legal Seafood is fond of saying, “If it isn’t fresh, it isn’t Legal!”

Pitango Gelato combines traditional methods with simple, premium ingredients to produce gelato and sorbet that’s big on flavor but lower in fat than ice cream. They also make a mean cup of coffee.

A word about transportation …
There are several parking garages in the area. On-street, metered parking is free on Sundays and plentiful when you arrive at the Penn Quarter around 10 a.m. for the opening of the museum.

Parkmobile allows you to pay for parking without digging in your pockets for stray coins. Use spaces marked with their green sign and pay via downloaded app with your smart phone. To learn more, visit us.parkmobile.com.

The closest Metro Stop is Gallery Place/Chinatown on Seventh Street.

When you go …

  • Hours of operation: 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
  • Admission: $19.95 for adults, $16.95 for seniors, $14.95 for children 6 & up (plus tax).
  • Special rates for seniors, military, retired military, police and retired police.
  • Audio tour is available for $5.
  • Tickets are for sale online at www.crimemuseum.com.

Clyde’s brings a regional favorite to Penn Quarter, featuring their famous crab cakes.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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National Sporting Art Museum Opens with ‘Afield in America’

Posted on October 25, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Middleburg,Virginia

The topic of equestrian and field art conjures up jaunty images of steeplechase races and pedigreed pets. But the new National Sporting Art Museum in Middleburg goes well beyond the expected by illustrating how our country’s contributions to the genre have evolved, developing a distinct style that’s rooted in the wild place America once was.

Vine Hill, an 1804 Federal manor house, has been renovated and enlarged to house a permanent collection and host special exhibitions. Photo by Paul Jean.

Here we become witness to the visceral dance of predator versus prey, whether viewing a painting of a man and his son bonding while bagging dinner or of a fox pursuing his solitary meal in the freshly fallen snow. The new museum, opened on October 7, deftly reveals that the essence of sporting art is anything but genteel and aristocratic.

“On the Wing,” 1850, William Tylee Ranney (1813 - 1857). Courtesy private collection, Pennsylvania.

The inaugural exhibit is a collection for everyone to enjoy. Afield in America: 400 Years of Animal and Sporting Art reaches back to the exploration and colonization of America and follows the young country through times when hunting was not just a pastime, but a means for survival.

Nearly 150 works are artfully arranged in themed rooms, beginning with Artists, Naturalists and Explorers. This gallery pays homage to the keen observers who chronicled the exotic flora and fauna they encountered in theNew World. Their art is engraved, etched and colored by hand in remarkably well-kept, over-sized volumes.

In Budding National Style, we see works that becomes increasingly less European in flavor, forming the foundation of American sporting art. The rooms that follow highlight specialized fields: Equine introduces the sport of kings, Angling features a small collection of relatively rare fishing art and Wildlife and Livestock explore a variety of themes.

“Thanksgiving Day Meet, the Meadow Brook Hounds, Long Island,” 1923, Franklin Brooke Voss (1880 – 1953). Courtesy private collection, Virginia.

Hunting with Hounds captures that quintessential Middleburg feeling, along with a Portraits room that features the Hunt and its colorful characters. These galleries sweep the viewer up into the moment and, whether a lover of equestrian sports or not, it’s “Tally-ho” for a time.

The endearing Pet gallery features two of the Dogs Playing Poker series commissioned in 1903 by Brown and Bigelow and painted by C. M. Coolidge to advertise cigars. While still considered low-brow art in some circles, they’ve been given prominent display for their significant place in American art history.

“A Bold Bluff (Judge St. Bernard Stands Pat on Nothing),” c. 1903 – 04, Cassius Marcellus Coolidge (1844 – 1934). Courtesy private collection, New York.

Trompe L’Oeil and Still Life exhibit traditionally European techniques that have been adapted to depict the American experience with numerous catches of the day strung on cabin doors – some rustic and others famous.

In Shooting, art turns decidedly to the new frontier and leads directly to The West, which celebrates works featuring cowboys, Indians, rugged terrain and the individualistic spirit. This is the last pristine land – wild and untamed, to be protected.

“The Outlaw,” 1906, Frederic Sackrider Remington (1861 – 1909). Courtesy Genesee Country Village & Museum, Mumford, New York.

The bronze Outlaw by Frederick Remington, Buckaroo by Alexander Proctor and Rough Rider by Solon Borglum convey the strength and courage of the West, along with the spirit of freedom and an element of danger. These are high – and very American – notes to end on.

Afield in America: 400 Years of Animal and Sporting Art is a dramatic and enlightening first exhibit for the new museum. The stylish setting, in a renovated and expanded 1804 manor house in the middle of Hunt Country, further enhances its presentation.

Next door is the National Sporting Library, founded in 1954 and housing over 13,000 books, periodicals, photos, films and manuscripts in a facility that’s open to researchers and the general public. Perched on a hill in historic and horsey Middleburg, the campus is an architectural statement that the equestrian and field sports are alive and well and living in Loudoun County.

Curator Turner Reuter has given his inaugural exhibit broad appeal by taking an evolutionary approach that reflects the diversity ofAmerica’s lifestyles, wildlife and landscapes. It’s as much a lively study of our history as it is a study of art.

The French Hound
Middleburg is Loudoun County’s alternative to the shopping mall. With upscale shops, fine restaurants, fun bakeries and over a dozen antique stores, you can easily spend a few hours soaking in the unique flavor of the town.

The town of Middleburg, the nation’s horse and hunt capital, is home to the National Sporting Library and Museum. Photo by Paul Jean.

One standout for a relaxing lunch is found at 101 S. Madison Street. Tucked away on a back road in an inviting Federal-style house with sunny Provencal décor, the French Hound is like a quick romp to France — only everyone speaks English and the food is not the least bit off-putting.

Meals are creatively and authentically updated, with lunch offerings that include French-inspired pizzas (the ratatouille, roasted garlic and goat cheese pie is a favorite), as well as soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts. Saucissons et cornichons and les escargot are nods to the traditional, and pumpkin profiteroles bring a bit of Virginia’s harvest to the table.

The French Hound brings French food to hunt country in a casual, upscale setting. Photo by Paul Jean.

Lunch is offered on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., with an additional brunch menu on Sunday. Limited fare is available from 2:30 – 5:30 p.m., dinner from 5:30 – 10 p.m., and more limited fare from 10 – 11 p.m. The restaurant closes at 2:30 p.m. on Sunday. For weekday hours, visit www.thefrenchhound.com.

National Sporting Library and Museum
Museum hours: Wednesday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Sunday, noon – 4 p.m.
Library hours: Tuesday – Friday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Saturday, 1 – 4 p.m.
Admission: Free
Current exhibit: “Afield in America” closes January 14, 2012
Upcoming exhibit: “The Wildlife Paintings of Bruno Liljefors” opens February, 2012.

Autumn is the perfect time to visit Middleburg’s newest museum and stroll the town’s streets. Photo by Paul Jean.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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Lexington Market Delivers Local Flavor

Posted on October 18, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Preface: Paul and I took last weekend off to visit family and friends in Boston, Massachusetts. Rather than skip a posting, we decided to give you this add-on for any Baltimore trip you happen to take (Museum of Industry, American Visionary Art Museum, Heavy Seas Brewery, Babe Ruth’s Birthplace and Camden Yards). Enjoy!

Destination: Baltimore, Maryland

Where else can you buy lobster, mussels and cod alongside muskrat, alligator and (sorry, University of Maryland fans) terrapin? Founded 125 years ago to bring the best of the Bay to Baltimore, Faidley’s Seafood is a landmark within a landmark.

Faidley’s Fish n’ Chips are reminiscent of the catch of the day in our hometown of Boston. All photos by Paul Jean.

Lexington Market was established in 1782 at its current location between Eutaw and Greene Streets, and it’s grown from a handful of farmers purveying produce right on the street to a collection of over 140 vendors sprawled inside two huge buildings.

If you’re in Baltimore visiting the Museum of Industry, you may want to stop by and see where Baltimoreans shopped during the city’s Industrial Revolution. While the market has undergone both a series of planned changes and a process of haphazard evolution over the years, it has managed to escape the gentrification of similar shopping venues across the country.

Faneuil Hall Marketplace it ain’t, so you’re unlikely to see words like “artisanal,” “heirloom” or “infused” here. Lexington Market sells real food to real people in real Baltimore. And since the world’s largest continuously operating market is slated for a major renovation soon, you may want to stop in for a lunch sooner rather than later.

This place is all about food. Fresh or cooked. Baked, fried, steamed or broiled. Italian, Greek, Chinese. But in Baltimore seafood rules, and one briny bivalve leads the pack.

Over 1,000,000 oysters are sold annually by the unpretentious fish monger known as Faidley’s, along with copious amounts of every other seafood imaginable. Be sure to try Nancy’s award-winning jumbo lump crab cakes, lauded by Gourmet Magazine and The New York Times as some of the best around.

The Raw Bar is surrounded with fish lovers who want to catch up on recent events.

Their set-up is oddly beautiful, with a Raw Bar plunked right in the middle of the restaurant to feed oysters, clams and beer to a bunch of locals discussing everything from the state of the economy to last Sunday’s football game.

The bar is flanked by a fresh fish case on the left and a “you-order” counter on the right. Tall, glossy wooden tables next to the Raw Bar allow diners to stand up while digging into their bounty of seafood. Sip a Raven beer and chat with your neighbors at a communal table for the true Baltimore experience.

A fresh fish case glistens with the best of the bay, and you can inquire about more exotic offerings.

Faidley’s shares its past and its pride with a display case of awards, photos and memorabilia dating back to their founding in 1886, reminding us that this isn’t a chain restaurant, it’s the real deal.

If you’re still hungry, venture into the marketplace and grab some Italian cookies or a slice of carrot cake from one of the dessert stands and take in the sights, sounds and smells of today’s Lexington Market.

The West Side of Baltimore Renaissance Project is in progress, having recently transformed the nearby historic Hippodrome Theatre into a center for the performing arts. Similarly, Lexington Market will reinvent itself to meet the needs of locals and visitors

The planned renovation will include larger windows and a colorful exterior, but keep the market’s comfortable feel.

While the renaissance will surely put the shine back on this gem, it’s always interesting to see the “before picture,” in case something gets lost in translation.

When you go …

  • The market is at 400 W. Lexington Street.
  • It’s open from Monday – Saturday from 8:30 a.m. – 6 p.m. (closed Sundays).
  • A 4,000-space parking garage is adjacent to the market.
  • The closest Metro stop is at Howard Street.
  • Annual events include the Chocolate Festival, Preakness Crab Derby, and Lunch with the Elephants. For additional information visit www.lexingtonmarket.com.

Lexington Market, Baltimore, Maryland prior to 1900. Image: Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division, reproduction number LC-USZ62-15860.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.
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Dogs Love Duke of Gloucester Street

Posted on October 11, 2011 by Elaine Jean

Destination: Williamsburg, Virginia

Do you believe in ghosts? If you and your best friend love to sniff out a scary good time, visit DOG Street in Williamsburg. By day it’s a pet friendly destination that takes you back in time, but in the evening you may just enter a whole ‘nother dimension.

The past meets the present on Duke of Gloucester Street in Williamsburg. All photos by Paul Jean.

When it comes to Colonial history, no one does it better than Williamsburg: 301 acres of 18th century living and learning, garnished with enough brick, ivy, candles and formal gardens to make the Redcoats surrender to our impeccable taste.

But this town of elegance and order has a dark side, and an Original Ghosts of Williamsburg Candlelight Tour will bring it out of hiding. Although there are several such tours operating in town, this is the one we tried, and we highly recommend for its lively storytelling and documented tales.

When you get into town stop by the Williamsburg General Store at 1656 Richmond Road to buy your ticket for a tour the same night, or purchase it online at www.theghosttour.com. The cost is $11 per adult and free for kids under the age of six, as well as for canines of all ages.

Norton was welcome on DOG Street and at several patios in Merchant’s Square.

With the remainder of the day explore the Historic Triangle, since dogs are welcome at all three of the major historic venues.

A fee of $10 gains seven-day access to Historic Jamestowne. Found at the end of the Colonial Parkway, this was the location of the first successful English colony in America. Dogs are allowed on the grounds and not in the buildings, but you’ll still get the flavor of the era through a number of outdoor activities, re-enactments and events.

Fast forward about 170 years by driving to the other end of the Colonial Parkway – Yorktown Battlefield also welcomes pets in most areas (but not indoors), and admission is included in the price of the aforementioned pass. It was here that British troops surrendered in 1781, effectively ending the American Revolutionary War.

The Colonial Parkway connects Jamestown, Williamsburg and Yorktown, with idyllic scenes along the way.

If there is still daylight to be had, stroll along Duke of Gloucester Street in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg and enjoy the sights, starting inMerchants Square.

A stroll along DOG Street is an education experience, even if you stay outside with your canine friend.

Hungry yet? The Cheese Shop makes sandwiches and salads to order, along with cheese and charcuterie boards. Browse the menu at http://www.cheeseshopwilliamsburg.com/sandwiches and call in your order at (757) 220-0298; your meal will be ready for pick-up from the outdoor window, and tables are conveniently located in front of the building.

The casual, high quality fare at the Cheese Shop can be carried out and eaten in any number of places around Merchants Square.

An admission fee is not required to walk down Duke of Gloucester Street, affectionately called DOG Streetby the locals, but donations are accepted. Fido isn’t welcome inside any of the buildings, despite the pineapples of hospitality that abound.

Taverns and shops are set up as they would have been in Colonial times, and costumed interpreters mingle with tourists.

Hoofing it along the main thoroughfare brings you through the restored area and is about two miles, round trip. You’ll see the Governor’s Palace, Capitol, Courthouse, Blacksmith, Printing Office and Magazine, as well as the home of Peyton Randolph, one of Virginia’s leading politicians. This is reportedly the most haunted building in Williamsburg, so you’ll learn more about it on the ghost tour.

The Governor’s Palace was the home of the colony’s Royal Governors, as well as the commonwealth’s post-colonial governors.

Participants convene at 7:45 p.m. in front of the William and Mary Bookstore at 345 W. Duke of Gloucester Street, and the tour leaves at 8 promptly. You’ll visit the College of William and Mary’s campus as well as much of Duke of Gloucester Street, so wear walking shoes and bring an umbrella for seasonal showers.

Bruton Parish Church was established in the Virginia Colony in 1674 and remains an active Episcopal Church today.

Our guide was animated and well-versed in the history of the area, and he presented the stories of L.B. Taylor, author of The Ghosts of Williamsburg, The Ghosts of Tidewater and other spine-tingling tales. The evening started out all light and happy, but by the end of the tour even the skeptics were seeing dead people.

That’s not to say that it’s terrifying … there were several kids on the tour, and they didn’t seem daunted. Maybe I just wanted to believe because Halloween is coming and the leaves are turning and I love Williamsburg. But that really doesn’t explain some of the anomalies that appeared in our photos from the evening. Be sure to bring a digital camera to see for yourself.

When the sun sets, a ghost tour of Colonial Williamsburg helps you see a whole ‘nother side of the popular tourist destination.

Rather than drive home late at night, we opted to stay at the LaQuinta Inn on Capitol Landing Road. It’s pet-friendly and they don’t charge a security deposit, regardless of the size of your dog.

We lived in Williamsburg about 15 years ago, so on the way up I-64 we stopped by the venerable Pierce’s Pitt Bar-B-Que to see what’s cooking. This is their 40th year in business, and they’re still turning out amazing chicken and pork ‘Q with all the fixings. Note that it is customary to be served cole slaw inside your sandwich, so be sure to tell them if you want it on the side.

Picnic tables outside make Pierce’s a great spot to eat with Fido. Just don’t forget the bug spray!

Visit Pierce’s Pitt Bar-B-Que, and celebrate their 40th anniversary like a local.

Worth mentioning …

  • Carry a water dish and refill it from the restrooms that are tucked around town.
  • Always carry disposable bags so you can clean up after your dog.
  • Use a leash at all times when you are in any of the historic areas.
  • Move your pet’s travel crate into the hotel room. Dogs derive a sense of security from their little shelters, and we derive the comfort of knowing they won’t trash the place.

Scenes of Colonial life will beckon you back to Williamsburg for another visit.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

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