Journey to the Center of the Earth
Destination: Luray, Virginia
It’s said that you shouldn’t take life too seriously – you’ll never get out alive – and that’s the inspiration for this trip. The day begins with a table of strangers at an award-winning bakery, features a favorite subterranean tourist trap, and ends at the best little bar in Front Royal.
Our first stop is the Red Truck Bakery at 22 Waterloo Street in Warrenton. Grab one of their sweet or savory pastries and head for the communal table, found by sniffing cinnamon scents that waft from the kitchen. Then pull up a chair and meet the random collection of folks who gather here to break bread.
The Red Truck Bakery is known for its pastries, pies and double-chocolate moonshine cake. All photos by Paul Jean.
It’s been a year since our last visit and, amazingly, the only Warrenton resident we know happened to wander in. Then we were joined by an Alexandria native who shared lots of local lore that’s bound to show up in another column.
That’s what it’s like at the Red Truck – you never know who you’re gonna meet, but you do know what you’re gonna eat: perfectly prepared muffins, scones and croissants accompanied by the finest high-octane brew around, apropos of a bakery in a circa 1921 Esso station.
After breakfast, hop on Route 211 to Luray Caverns, the largest and most popular caverns in the East. This National Landmark is the big cajuna.
On August 13, 1878 Andrew Campbell made the discovery of the century when he caught a cool breeze escaping from a gap in the limestone earth. Upon further investigation he crawled into a natural wonder that now draws families, field trips and tour buses from miles around.
Luray Caverns is no secret, and that’s what makes it an essential destination for anyone who claims to be a true Virginian. If you go on a weekend, arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon to avoid the crowd. And it certainly doesn’t hurt to make friends with your fellow spelunkers.
Visitors are dazzled by stalactite formations that have been 4 million centuries in the making at Luray Caverns.
Cave aficionado Robert Tucker was on our tour, having driven all the way from Canton, Ohio with his son. Robert grew up exploring the curiosities of our country, and now he enjoys sharing that spirit of adventure with Josh. As he explains it, caverns are a great way to get back to nature while having your socks knocked off.
A crystal-clear pool makes it tough to tell where the real thing ends and the reflection begins.
High points of the mile-and-a-quarter tour are the 7-million-year-old Big Shaggy, a flowstone natural work of art that’s 40-feet tall and 120 feet in circumference, and Fried Eggs that look real enough to eat. Some of the formations have official monikers, but the fun is in making up your own.
Kids are definitely worth listening to, even if you don’t bring any of your own. The naming committee ahead of us skipped along, declaring, “Look, it’s Mickey Mouse … It’s a bad guy’s brain … It’s my Uncle Frank!”
Formations are named for their striking resemblance to life atop the surface, and this one’s called Fish Market.
Luray Caverns is the home of the world’s largest natural musical instrument, the Great Stalacpipe Organ. Invented by Leland Sprinkle in 1957, the organ uses mallets that strike formations to make the rocks sing. Amazingly, the chamber is a popular wedding venue – over 500 couples have been hitched here.
Paved paths wind around well-lighted stalactites on a one-hour tour that includes massive crystalline cascades and inspiring chambers.
You’ll exit through a gift shop that features the usual suspects – tee shirts, shot glasses and jewelry – and a few things probably not found in your town or even your decade. Old timey toy shotguns and corn cob dolls remind us that we’re at one of the region’s oldest attractions, still thriving after all these years.
On the same property, the Car and Carriage Caravan displays over 140 vehicles end-to-end, giving the impression of one big, eclectic traffic jam. Notable are an 1840 Conestoga wagon, a 1927 Bugatti and a 1910 Model T that retailed for $550 when it was new. There’s another gift emporium here, too, in case you’ve failed to fully empty your wallet.
This 1928 Packard is one of many exhibits that pay tribute to the history of transportation in the Car and Carriage Caravan.
The Luray Valley Museum chronicles the history of the region in a much more peaceful setting than the previous two attractions, providing a tasteful diversion on a day that’s all about kitschy fun.
An array of cast iron stoves, pots and washboards recall the mining days of the 1800s, and a collection of furniture and pottery showcases the craftsmanship of the valley. Spinning wheels, butter churns and other stuff-of-rural-life give a glimpse of local residents who were hard workers and hand crafters.
The Luray Valley Museum celebrates Shenandoah culture from 1750 and recreates a small farming community on its grounds.
The Garden Maze is a one-acre ornamental garden with eight-foot tall hedges that’s probably best left until the end of the day. Lost visitors are treated to a cooling mist while navigating through a maze that’s right out of The Shining.
Visitors enter the largest garden maze in the Mid-Atlantic for some a-maze-ing fun.
When you’ve exhausted yourself and all of the possibilities, hop on the highway to 205-A East Main Street in Front Royal for dinner. You’ll thank your lucky stars you did.
The Lucky Star Lounge is a bar. A very wonderful bar.
If the kids are with you, the tables on the floor are the way to go. But if they’re not, cozy up to the bar and hang out with owner Trevor Lipton and talented ‘tender Tim. They’ll keep a steady stream of plates and drinks coming, spiced with witty conversation and an energetic vibe.
Don’t usually sit up at the bar? But today we are on an adventure, not taking life too seriously and all, remember? Besides, this is the bar you’ve been waiting for, the one with great food and an English guy who makes you laugh.
Meals are fairly healthy and prepared to order with ingredients gathered from the local farmers market. Feeling wild and crazy, we let Trevor select our meals and Tim pick our drinks.
Tables are ready for evening guests at Front Royal’s Lucky Star Lounge, a bar that’s really a great restaurant in disguise.
Trevor’s house special – roasted salmon with heirloom tomatoes and fresh lemon basil over apple and thyme flavored rice – was quite tasty and probably would have paired well with a variety of beverages, but Tim selected the Delirium Tremens pale ale from Belgium, a real winner.
These guys know their hops and malts. Trevor hails from London, and several times throughout the evening he was heard exclaiming, “Gawd, I love beer!” to no one in particular. Taps dispense brews and microbrews, and bottles are a respectable lot, as well. But be forewarned: The Lucky Star is a Bud-free zone.
Live music is featured every night in a variety of musical stylings, and on Saturdays at 9:30 p.m. the band sets up for a rollicking good time. Regulars call ahead to reserve their favorite seats, so come in early if you plan to end your day trip by rocking into the night.
When you go …
- The Red Truck Bakery and Lucky Star Lounge are both closed on Sundays.
- Luray Caverns is open every day of the year.
- For information about hours and admission, visit www.luraycaverns.com.
- Admission to the Garden Maze is an additional fee.
- The walk-through tour of the caverns takes about an hour.
- Temperature remains around 54 degrees, so bring a sweatshirt.
- The pathway is paved and wheelchair and stroller accessible.
- Luray Caverns 133rd Annual Discovery Day is August 13, featuring a candlelight tour and costumed interpreters by day and fireworks in the evening.
Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.
