Washington, D.C.

United States Botanic Garden – Save it for a Rainy Day

Day Trip Destination: Washington, D.C.

Rain cascading down the sides of the gigantic greenhouse that is the Conservatory of the U.S. Botanic Garden only enhances its beauty. The humidity and warmth of this place of the earth invites you in from a cold, wet day as if Mother Nature, herself, were standing at the door.

The Garden Court is all decked out with fragrant pots of flowers, as if to extend Mom’s welcome and set the stage for spring. The heady scent of camellia combines with soothing background music, and you could almost park yourself on one of the many benches for the day. But don’t –ecosystems of the world await your exploration.

Enter The Jungle and the humidity level is stepped up a few notches to support the abundant palm trees, ferns, bromeliads, prayer plants and philodendron – all plants I’ve tried and failed to grow at home. Interpretive signage explains the rain cycle of the rain forest, and now I know why I didn’t stand a chance.

Wooden walkways and stone bridges are built into the landscape, or, rather, enveloped by it. Steel stairs and a catwalk crawling with vines let you walk among the treetops, and the kid in you may feel a bit like George of the Jungle. Back on the ground, the whimsy continues in the alcove of a children’s garden that’s a fantasy of topiary, fern and blossoms.

The transition to World Desserts is a bit jarring, with its red rocks and prickly cacti in sharp contrast to the preceding room. But a dry, mineral-scented breeze stirs, and the beauty of the dessert becomes apparent. Dessert flowers that dot the landscape’s dusty tones appear to be showing off.

In Hawaii, a vignette that includes a waterfall and stone archway in cool, green lusciousness makes real the oft-used marketing phrase “Land of Enchantment.” At the Garden Primeval, a glorious mystery is revealed: Where did all the flowers come from?

The plants in this recreation of the Jurassic Period of the Mesozoic era are living representatives of the vegetation that dominated the planet 150 million years ago – sans flowers. Kids will love the occasional carnivorous plant. Letting imaginations run wild is easy when you’ve stepped back in time and are standing next to a pond that looks like the manifestation of primordial soup.

An exhibit on Medicinal Plants showcases the usual suspects – aloe, ginger, lavender, coffee, tea and herbs – as well as witch hazel, goldenseal wild cherry and other homeopathic remedies used to cure everything from bad breath to insomnia. I swear I felt better just breathing the air.

The Orchid Room is a spectacular conclusion – blooms that range from soft and subdued to loud and happy surround the visitor, set against a background of mossy rocks, deep green leaves and a babbling brook. Blood pressure drops, spirits soar and suddenly you realize that spring is just around the corner.

The U.S. Botanic Garden is conveniently located next to the U.S. Capitol and hosts special exhibits, programs and concerts throughout the year. Currently on view in the East Gallery is “Close: Landscape Design and Land Art in Scotland,” an engaging display of photos by Allan Pollok-Morris.

Inspired by the announcement that the garden has been deemed the most important work of art in Scotland, the photographer took five years exploring new creations in landscape design and art. He shares his work here, in an exhibit that runs through June 5.

Ranging from the labyrinth motifs of Jim Buchanon in Dumfriesshire to the gardens of Angelika, Dowager of Cawdor – the setting of Shakespeare’s Macbeth – the photographs succeed in capturing the true art of the garden.

The outdoor National Garden makes a great stroll on a clear day, featuring both native plants of the Mid-Atlantic region and an organic rose garden that honors our national flower. Historic Bartholdi Park – created in 1932 – is a local favorite “secret garden,” with its home landscaping and innovative plant combinations.

When you go…

• The U.S. Botanic Garden is at 100 Maryland Avenue SW, between 1^st and 3^rd St.
• Admission is free.
• The Conservatory and National Garden are open from 10 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Bartholdi Park welcomes visitors from dawn to dusk.
• Most areas are handicapped accessible, and wheelchairs are available.
• Metered parking and a limited number of handicapped spaces are available.
• The nearest Metro stops are Federal Center SW or Capitol South.
• Public restrooms are located in the South Lobby.
• Photography is permitted, but not tripods without prior authorization.
• Strollers are permitted, but may be restricted during peak times.
• A Junior Botanist kit is available at the front desk for use by children ages 9-12.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean.  All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean.  All rights reserved.

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Lincoln’s Cottage – Our 16th President, Unplugged

Day Trip Destination: Washington, D.C.

Hidden in plain sight on the grounds of the Armed Forces Retirement Home in Northwest Washington, D.C., Lincoln’s Cottage affords the visitor a rare opportunity to connect with the simple-yet-complex man who was our 16th president.

Abraham Lincoln used the 34-room Gothic Revival house on the then-rural outskirts of Washington as a retreat – his Camp David – during the summers of 1862, 1863 and 1864, spending a combined one-quarter of his presidency here. At this cottage he hoped to escape the heat of the summer, the pressure of the presidency and the stress of the ongoing Civil War.

His three-mile daily commute to the White House took about 40 minutes on horseback or by carriage – about the same as it might today with a serious traffic jam – and along the road, the president stopped to talk to wounded soldiers who had just returned from the front. Lincoln had a life-long desire to talk with ordinary people, and the insight that he gained from this rapport helped him make decisions in his role as Commander in Chief.

The president was so at home at the cottage that he began to refer to his office in the White House as “the shop,” considering it his workshop for daily business.

While the cottage did provide some relief from the daily grind, as well as the heat and humidity of Washington summers, it did not prove to be much of an escape from the war. Union camps dotted the grounds, and the first National Cemetery was in view of the house –a constant reminder of mounting casualties.

Lincoln was remarkably accessible to the public, and a steady stream of visitors made the trek to see him in the evenings. He received callers in the drawing room, where he willingly chatted with those who casually stopped by.

A guided tour brings you to the same room, where you hear the words of a late-night visitor who arrived unannounced to find the president sporting bedroom slippers and ruffled hair, and sharing stories of his modest upbringing.

This is Lincoln unplugged. Down-to-earth and introspective, he was relatively unspoiled by the trappings of his office.

Unlike many historic sites associated with our presidents, Lincoln’s Cottage is not about furniture, china, or pomp and circumstance. It’s about a humble man who rose to greatness while remaining grounded. It’s about a man who loved his country so much that he worked tirelessly to put it back together again, regardless of personal expense.

It was in this house that Lincoln mourned his young son, and in its library that he enjoyed the books of the times. Here he plotted Union war strategy and drafted the Emancipation Proclamation. The last day he visited the cottage was the day before his assassination.

Lincoln’s Cottage opened to the public for the first time in 2008, after an extensive $15 million restoration project by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The cottage may only be seen by guided tour, during which visitors walk in Lincoln’s footsteps and explore the major issues of his presidency – war, freedom and democracy.

Groups are small, and reservations – which are highly recommended – can be made at www.lincolnscottage.org. Tickets for the one-hour tour are $12 and include admission to the Robert H. Smith Visitors Center.

Plan to arrive 15 minutes early to check-in at the Visitors Center, and return after the tour to explore thought-provoking displays on Lincoln’s life. The painting, “View of the Soldiers’ Home in Lincoln’s Time,” by Virginia muralist William Woodward, is prominently displayed over the entrance to the museum.

Exhibits give insight on Lincoln, the man. His self-deprecating sense of humor is revealed in a display on the 1858 debate with Stephen Douglas, in which Douglas accused Lincoln of being two-faced. Lincoln quipped, “I leave it to you, my audience: If I were two-faced, would I be wearing this one?”

A life-size bronze sculpture of Lincoln and his horse – on the grounds outside the cottage – recalls Lincoln’s daily commute to and from the White House, and further points to the ordinary life of this extraordinary man.

When You Go…

• Key “140 Rock Creek Church Road NW” into your GPS.
• Prepare to show a photo ID as you pass the guard shack.
• Parking is abundant and free.
• Tours are $12 and gather at the Robert H. Smith Visitors Center.
• On-sight ticket purchases are subject to availability.
• No strollers or photography are allowed inside the buildings.
• The property is handicapped accessible.
• Restrooms and a gift shop are in the Visitors Center.

What Would Lincoln Eat?

Hank’s Oyster Bar, a Dupont Circle favorite, is the ideal place to enjoy one of Abraham Lincoln’s favorite foods after touring his historic summer retreat.

In the mid-1800s oysters were well-established fare in taverns up and down the East Coast, and so the munchable mollusk quickly migrated westward. Oyster wagons that were the 19^th century equivalent of Fed Ex trucks rushed briny cargo to big cities, and oyster saloons became popular meeting spots for politicians and public servants. One country lawyer in Illinois was no exception.

That Abraham Lincoln embraced the humble pub grub spoke to the unpretentious nature of the man. He was even said to have shoveled out fried oysters to the public as part of his campaign strategy in 1864.

Hank’s Oyster Bar serves up oysters – and other seafood – in a down-to-earth yet stylish setting that’s a quick detour off 17^th Street on your way home from Lincoln’s Cottage.

Small plates –oysters and clams on the half-shell, jumbo shrimp cocktail, and sake oyster shooters, as well as tender morsels of fried oysters, shrimp and calamari – make satisfying snacks. Large plates, such as lobster rolls, seared scallops and fried oysters, make this New Englander smile. And the buttermilk-battered onion rings are some of the best around, perfectly complimented by my personal favorite, Troeg’s Hopback Amber Ale, on tap.

Parking in Dupont Circle is limited, but patience pays; ride around the block a couple of times, as cars come and go often. We nabbed free on-street parking near the restaurant in the middle of a Saturday afternoon in a matter of minutes. Hank’s is worth the effort.

1624 Q Street NW
Washington, DC

Celebrations of Lincoln’s Birth

So beloved was Abraham Lincoln that America began celebrating his birthday in 1865 — just one year after his assassination. The celebrations continue – now on the third Monday of February, officially made Presidents Day by Richard Nixon in 1971.

Here are just a few of the events and exhibits that commemorate the life of Abraham Lincoln, as well as those who came before and after him to serve in what Bill Clinton referred to as the “glorious burden” of the presidency.

The National Museum of American History features “Abraham Lincoln: An Extraordinary Life” through May 30. Explore the life and times of our 16^th president, with personal stories from the people who knew him best. Artifacts range from the iron wedge he used to split wood when he was young to the life mask made near the end of his life, in which the strain of the presidency was written all over his face.

Also at the National Museum of American History, “The American Presidency: A Glorious Burden” is ongoing, bringing to life the role of the presidency in American culture. The exhibit displays over 900 presidential objects.

In observance of Abraham Lincoln’s birthday, there will be a wreath-laying ceremony at the Lincoln Memorial on Saturday, February 12 at noon, along with a reading of the Gettysburg Address. For additional information, call (202) 619-7222.

On February 17, Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum, at 1025 F Street NW, unveils a new $2 million-plus Presidents Gallery, featuring an interactive exhibit of our presidents. This will make Madame Tussaud’s Washington location the only place in the world where visitors can interact with all 44 US presidents. Tickets are $20 for adults and $15 for children.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean.  All rights reserved.

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Hillwood Estate – ‘Where Fabulous Lives’

Destination: Washington, DC

The former home of Marjorie Merriweather Post offers beauty, inspiration and elegance, just minutes from the heart of D.C.

What’s not to love about a historic American Country House that looks like it’s from a genteel version of “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous?” Tucked against Rock Creek Park in Northwest Washington, D.C., Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens is known as “the place where fabulous lives.”

Marjorie Merriweather Post purchased the 25-acre estate in 1955 as a place to live, entertain and showcase her magnificent collection of French and Russian art. When she died it became her luxurious gift to the public, opening in 1977 for all to enjoy. And from the moment you walk through the doors, you really will feel like her guest.

One of the wealthiest women in America, Post was a profoundly talented collector with a passion for the French decorative arts. In 1914 she inherited the Postum Cereal Company from her father, and she immediately took an active role in the company. By the time her first marriage to Edward Bennett Close ended in 1919 she had been bitten by the collecting bug. Her impeccable taste, desire and means allowed her to assemble a dazzling array of French furniture, tapestry and artwork.

During her second marriage – to businessman Edward F. Hutton – her fortune grew as the company became the General Foods Corporation. The marriage didn’t last – perhaps when E.F. Hutton talked she just didn’t care to listen – and Post stepped up to join her company’s Board of Directors.

With her third marriage came the opportunity that would forever change her life and legacy. Husband Joseph E. Davies was the American ambassador to Russia, and during their time in Moscow Post gathered a tremendous amount of Russian imperial art. This set a foundation upon which to build long after she had returned home, divorced Davies and purchased Hillwood.

From the very start, Post knew that she was making Hillwood into both a home for herself and a museum for her treasures. She worked with renowned architects and designers to create spaces that are both elegant and welcoming, so while the estate is over-the-top gorgeous it doesn’t feel the least bit off-putting.

If you arrive early in the day, your welcome will begin with a conveniently located, free parking space just outside the Visitors Center. If you’re not so early, that’s okay; you’ll just be given directions and instructed to park somewhere nearby. Be mindful that on-street parking in the neighborhood around Hillwood is not allowed.

The Visitors Center is quite large and full of resources to make your visit a success. You can watch a 15-minute orientation video there or online to help set the stage for an enriching Hillwood experience.

An audio tour is free, and you can pick up the headsets and a brochure containing maps and a guide when you purchase your tickets. This is highly recommended, as it walks you through the mansion and its gardens and puts the home and its treasures into the context of the life of Marjorie Merriweather Post. By the time you finish, you will be in awe of both the woman and her world.

Notable Russian items include two imperial Easter eggs created by Faberge, the Orlov service commissioned by Catherine the Great for one of her many lovers, and the nuptial crown of Empress Alexandra.

The vestments, chalice covers and altar cloths that the Russian government sold to finance its industrialization are tastefully displayed in the Russian Liturgical Room. It’s sobering to pause and think about the era that followed, for both Russia and the world.

The decorative arts of 18^th century France provided a backdrop for Post’s everyday life, giving us insight about this woman of exquisite taste. Not to be missed are the two sets of drawers made by German-born Jean-Henri Riesener, the official cabinet maker to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, found in the entry hall.

The transition to Hillwood’s kitchen and pantry is almost startling. Post’s staff enjoyed a state of the art American kitchen, complete with dumbwaiter and industrial-strength appliances – oversized meat slicers, percolators, stand mixers, deep double sinks and miles and miles of countertop space. The Sta-Kold freezer provides a hint that Post may have enjoyed the Birdseye vegetables that her company sold.

Pockets of beauty are everywhere, enhanced by cuttings from the gardens, and these arrangements lead you to outdoor living spaces that are as elegant as their indoor counterparts. Garden rooms combine a variety of historical styles with current horticultural designs.

The French Parterre transports the day tripper back to 18^th century France, with its formality, symmetry, geometry, and whimsical statuary. The Rose Garden was adapted for Post’s taste by Perry Wheeler, who also assisted with the design of the Rose Garden at the White House.

In the Japanese-style Garden, a network of paths and bridges winds past lily-padded ponds, and gardens are decorated with stone tortoise, lanterns and numerous figures. Think: Zen-like tranquility.

A Russian summer house, called a Dacha, is found tucked in the woods and to be used as a venue for programs and exhibits. And a significant exhibit, Wedding Belles, is currently on display in the Adirondack House.

Here the Post family shares the wedding dresses of Marjorie Merriweather Post, her mother and her daughters. Spanning an 84-year period, the exhibit gives an interesting look at bridal fashions during a time when the country and its fashion trends were in a constant state of flux. Wedding Belles runs through January 1, 2012.

Enjoying a picnic in one of the designated areas will give you a chance to savor the beauty that is Hillwood, an oasis in the city. Marjorie Merriweather Post’s gift may have been extravagant, but it is also quite peaceful.

In her own words, “When I began [collecting], I did it for the joy of it, and it was only as the collection grew and such interest was evidenced by others, that I came to the realization that the collection should belong to the country.”

When you go …

• Hillwood is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., as well as some evenings and Sundays.
• The estate is closed during January for cleaning and renovations.
• Lunch is available at the Hillwood Café and the Café Express.
• Picnics are welcome in designated areas, with blankets to borrow from the Café.
• Wheelchairs and Baby Bjorns are also available for use.
• The Museum Shop sells a wide variety of elegant souvenirs.
• Weekends are the busiest time at Hillwood, and online reservations are recommended.
• Tickets may also be purchased in the Visitors Center and are $15 for adults, $5 for children ages 6 to 18, $10 for students and $12 for seniors.
• From Memorial Day through Labor Day Hillwood waives admission fees for active military and their families.
• Restrooms and phones are found in the Visitors Center.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.