George Washington: Founding Father, Freemason and Townie

Destination: Alexandria, Virginia

The cobblestone streets of Alexandria were once George Washington’s stomping ground. Today Old Town is a quaint destination that’s close to the nation’s capitol, and a visit is particularly meaningful as Washington’s Birthday nears. Learn more about the life of our first president when he went off the plantation.

Walk in Washington’s foot steps, stop in at some of the places he did, and tour the magnificent memorial that was built in his honor by a grateful brotherhood of Freemasons. This is a rare opportunity to look inside an organization that has traditionally been cloaked in secrecy, and to understand the reverence it holds for Brother Washington.

Whether you believe the Freemasons are a benign organization that’s akin to the Kiwanis Club or an ancient order hell bent on world domination, you will enjoy a rare peek behind the curtain at the George Washington Masonic Memorial, located at 101 Callahan Drive in Alexandria, Virginia.

On Washington’s Birthday in 1910, Freemasons from around the country gathered to discuss the idea of building a memorial to the man who epitomized their vision of the reward of virtue and sacrifices made during a lifetime of public service. Ground was broken in 1922 and the project was completed ten years later, entirely with private funds collected by the Masons.

The resulting memorial is spectacular. Inspired by the Lighthouse of Alexandria in Egypt, it honors George Washington as a guiding light for our country and his fraternal organization. Architecture combines Greek and Roman influences in a structure made largely of, not surprisingly, stone. Exhibits show Washington in the context of being a Freemason, as well as the Charter Master of Alexandria-Washington Masonic Lodge #22.

Visitors enter on the main level and are welcome to wander there and on the lower level for free, and the $5 tour gains access to the tower and observatory – worth every penny. It’s lead by a Freemason who will answer your questions – at least most of them – and bring you up into the tower to see the George Washington Museum and several other rooms that are sponsored by Masonic chapters.

The ride up in the lush, wood-paneled elevator – with the dozen or so people on our one-hour tour – was quick and cozy, and the anticipation was palpable. Our trip was further enhanced by a participant who knew his Dan Brown and reported to be related to George Washington.

The stunning museum on the fourth floor enlightens visitors on the many roles that Washington held: soldier, farmer, president, and, at his core, Freemason. Artifacts include his field trunk from the Revolutionary War, his tools from the cornerstone ceremony at the US Capitol Building, a few strands of his hair and a transcript of his will as it appeared in the local newspaper.

Ascending the tower, you will visit rooms that feel more like chambers, the first of which is sponsored by the Royal Arch Chapter. Borrowing heavily from Egyptian and Hebrew culture, décor of biblical inspiration enhances the walls. A beautiful reproduction of the Ark of the Covenant takes center stage. Think Indiana Jones.

The Knights Templar Room is of Medieval French Gothic design and was dedicated in 1957 by Vice-President Richard Nixon. It features four enormous stained glass windows – the most significant of which depicts the three degrees of Freemasonry – as well as two suits of armor and the sword of a Crusader. Legend and lore surround the original Knights Templar, and this room captures the mystique.

Tucked away on the ninth floor is a room sponsored by the Tall Cedars of Lebanon – a reconstruction of the temple of King Solomon and the items in it – including his throne, large copper bowl, oil lamp holders and a tree of life. The Tall Cedars of Lebanon are best known for their fund raising efforts in the fight against Muscular Dystrophy.

The ninth floor also grants access to the observation deck, which circles the top of the tower and boasts a 360-degree view of the Metro area — a full 400 feet above sea level. The US Capitol, Washington Monument, National Harbor, and points of interest in Maryland and Virginia are easy spotted, and the town of Alexandria is laid out directly below like a model railroad village.

Back on the main level a colossal bronze statue of George Washington in full Masonic regalia – all 17 feet and seven tons of him – graces the entry hall, and murals on each side depict important events in his life as a Mason.

Of special interest in the gallery behind the gift shop is the chamber clock that marks the time of Washington’s death – 10:20 – on the evening of December 14, 1799. Also included in the room is a chair from Washington’s library, in which every Grand Master in Virginia has his photo taken.

The lower level houses a gallery dedicated to the Shriners, that fun-loving and benevolent group famous for its participation in parades and its contributions to children’s hospitals. The Form and Function of American Freemasonry is a crash course on the Masons, and illustrates how prominent Americans – such as George Washington, Ben Franklin, Andrew Jackson and Harry Truman – have improved themselves as they’ve improved their communities.

When you go…

• Admission to the first two floors is free.
• The tour of the tower exhibits and observation deck is $5 (free for kids 12 & under).
• Restrooms are on the lower (ground) floor.
• The building is handicapped-accessible from the parking lot on the lower (ground) level.
• Parking is free, and the lot may be entered from the access road off Callahan Drive.
• Strollers, backpacks and baby carriages are prohibited.
• Check the website for hours of operation, tour times and other details.

George Washington’s Alexandria

After you’ve met George Washington the Freemason, consider exploring his stomping ground to learn more about the Father of Our Country as a man about town. The past is woven with the present in Alexandria, making for one stylishly entertaining history lesson.

Drive down King Street to the Ramsay House Visitors Center, at 221 King Street, and find on-street parking nearby. Then go inside and ask to become an Honorary Citizen for the Day, receiving a certificate for your car so you won’t have to feed the meter all day long.

This building was once the home of William Ramsay, the first mayor of Alexandria, and it offers a good starting point with plenty of free information, maps and brochures.

Pick up a restaurant book containing hundreds of dollars worth of discounts – it’s free – and buy Alexandria’s Key to the City for just $12. It holds coupons for admission to many of the town’s attractions, as well as discounts for restaurants and shops. The center is open from 10 a.m.-5p.m.

The Carlyle House Historic Park, at 121 N. Fairfax Street, is the next stop. As a prosperous and influential founder of this city, John Carlyle hosted his good friends, George and Martha Washington, on numerous occasions in his elegant home. It has been beautifully restored to show how Carlyle lived and entertained, giving us a slice of aristocratic life.

Standing in the middle of rooms that George Washington did – and not behind a Plexiglas barrier – helps visitors feel especially connected to the past. Don’t expect to see any ghosts, though. A dead cat was entombed behind one of the walls to ward off paranormal activity.

The Carlyle House is a must-see, and an hour long tour is offered for $5 (free with a coupon from the Key to the City). Note that on February 12 from noon-4 p.m., visitors can meet George Washington and John Carlyle during “George Washington Comes to Dinner.”

The Stabler-Leadbetter Apothecary Shop, at 105-107 S. Fairfax Street, is now a museum, but from 1792-1933 it was a family-owned pharmacy that cured whatever ailed local residents. Prominent customers included Nelly Custis, Robert E. Lee and Martha Washington, whose request for caster oil is proudly displayed in one of the exhibits.

Visible among the rows of medicines and elixirs are opium and cannabis, as well as lavender for depression and powdered pumpkin seeds for tapeworm. Dragonsblood and snakeroot might make you think you’ve wandered into Diagon Alley, but these are just colorful names for products in the company’s line of paints and varnishes.

Jars and bottles line the walls, and work benches are outfitted with the tools of the trade in such a way that it appears the pharmacist has just stepped out for a coffee break. This museum is unusual in that it was one of the oldest continuously functioning pharmacies in the country when it closed in the 1930s, and the building was sold with all of the items intact. A tour of this time capsule is offered for $5 (free with a coupon from the Key to the City).

Gadsby’s Tavern, at 138 N. Royal Street, consists of two buildings – a tavern and an inn – and George Washington really did sleep here. Gadsby’s was the center of social, political and business life in 18^th century Alexandria. George and Martha attended the annual Birthnight Ball held in his honor at the tavern, where they partied like it was 1799.

Visitors can tour the historic rooms of Gadsby’s Tavern and dine in Gadsby’s Tavern Restaurant, which serves Washington’s favorite meal –glazed breast of duck with scalloped potatoes – and other colonial favorites. Tours are $5 – free with a coupon from the Key to the City. The book also contains a coupon good for half-price on the second entrée.

While you can’t enter George Washington’s Townhouse, at 508 Cameron Street, you can walk by and see this reproduction of his original, in-town dwelling. Washington kept a modest residence in Alexandria for when bad weather struck or business engagements kept him from making the trek back to Mount Vernon.

The Washingtons worshipped at Old Christ Church, an English-style country church located at 118 N. Washington Street. Tours are free and available upon request when a docent is available. The grounds are picturesque, and the graveyard dates back to the 1700s.

Please visit websites for details, which are subject to change. Most historic attractions in Old Town close at 4 p.m. in the winter months.

Celebrations in Honor of Washington’s Birthday

The town of Alexandria loves its most famous citizen just as much as it loves to party. Events and special promotions are planned throughout the month of February, and here are just a few.

Local restaurants will compete to make the best cherry cocktails, appetizers, entrees or desserts in the Cherry Challenge, from February 6-12. Diners will be given ballots to complete with their meals and asked to cast their votes – without telling any lies.

The George Washington Classic 10K Race and 2-K Fun Run on Saturday, February 19 at 8:30 a.m. will have the heartiest of souls out running in the Eisenhower Valley. Registration is required.

The annual Birthnight Ball at Gadsby’s Tavern will be held on Saturday, February 19 from 5:30-11:30 p.m., and advance registration is required.

On Sunday, February 20 from 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Fort Ward Park at 4301 W. Braddock Road will host a Revolutionary War Re-enactment with a skirmish between the Colonial Army and the Redcoats at 2 p.m.

Alexandria’s George Washington’s Birthday Parade is the largest in the nation, from 1-3 p.m. on Monday, February 21.

Admission to Mount Vernon is free all day on Monday, February 21 in honor of George Washington’s 279^th birthday. Celebrate with musical and military performances, a wreath-laying ceremony and a surprise birthday party.

For details of Alexandria’s month-long celebration – including hours, registration fees and deadlines – visit http://www.washingtonbirthday.net/events.

At the end of the day, a stop at Murphy’s Grand Irish Pub, at 713 King Street, will warm you from the inside out – with a roaring fire and friendly service. It’s a cozy place to grab a bite and toast to the birthday boy. Murphy’s is offering a three-course dinner for two for the entire birthday weekend – February 18-21 – for just $35 per couple.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean.  All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean.  All rights reserved.

Oatlands Historic Mansion and Gardens

Day Trip Destination: Loudoun County, Virginia

Oatlands Plantation is the most popular tourist attraction in Loudoun County, with gardens that are among the most beautiful in Virginia. The history of Oatlands is inextricably tied to the area around it, and a visit helps you connect the dots of Loudoun’s past while enjoying a quiet day in the country.

Oatlands is the county’s reminder that we are in the South. The extensive gardens are scented with roses and lilacs and framed with boxwood, and all are arranged with a lightness and elegance that make even this Bostonian want to reach for a mint julep.

The mansion remains true to George Carter’s vision for his home, and tours of the first floor are offered daily. Special events, such as the Middleburg All Breed Dog Show and Christmas at Oatlands, are held throughout the seasons.

But before you tour Oatlands, it’s important to understand a bit of the local history.

In 1798, wheat was king. Young George Carter had just won 3,400 acres in a family lottery, and while others might have considered the rural outpost a consolation prize, Carter looked at the wheat dancing in the breeze and he saw a sea of dollar signs.

The great-grandson of Robert “King” Carter, whose wealth was legendary, George planted his home on the tract in 1804 and a thriving community sprung up around it – post office, mill, school and church. It still exists today, with the exception of the mill, and comprises Loudoun County’s Oatlands Historic District, a National Historic Landmark.

Carter had great foresight and business acumen and recognized that, while the surrounding area was indeed a rural outpost, its location on Goose Creek and its climate made it prime real estate. The area would later become known as “the breadbasket of the Confederacy.”

Meanwhile, further south on Goose Creek, the property that is now the town of Aldie was owned by Charles Fenton Mercer, and in 1807 he decided to build his grain mill there. A town soon sprung up around it, and Aldie became a major industrial center in Loudoun County.

Back at Oatlands, Carter’s fortune grew, and his Oatlands Mill became even larger than the Aldie Mill – yielding 40 barrels of flour each day. Carter expanded his operations to include other grains, sheep, a gristmill, a saw mill, and a vineyard, providing one-stop-shopping for clients from miles around.

To extend their reach, Carter and Mercer began lobbying for a canal that would make Goose Creek navigable from their mills to the Potomac River, but it was not meant to be. The canal ultimately only made it about 12 miles up the creek – a far cry from the trip to Oatlands and Aldie – and it was never used for commercial purposes. But even without the canal, Mercer and Carter were two of the riches men in Virginia.

This prosperity was due largely to the hard work of enslaved African Americans. When George Carter inherited his land, he arrived with 17 slaves. Just prior to the Civil War, that number had grown to 128, making the Oatlands slave population the largest in Loudoun County.

The Oatlands mansion was originally built as a Georgian house in 1804, constructed of the stately brick of the day. By the late 1820s, Carter had added a three-story Corinthian portico and covered the exterior brick with stucco, transforming it into the Greek Revival mansion you see today.

George Carter had a bank barn, a smokehouse and several other dependencies built, including the propagation greenhouse that is now one of the oldest in the country.

The next residents of the home, William and Edith Eustis, kept most of the structure true to the Carter era. Just driving down the tree-lined driveway, it’s easy to imagine the peace that the Carters, and later the Eustis family, felt on the land they called home.

After purchasing tickets at the circa 1903 Carriage House, a Eustis period addition, you can wander around the grounds and enjoy the four and a half acres of formal gardens and connecting terraces before joining a tour of the mansion.

In the early 20^th century, after Oatlands was purchased by the Eustis family, Edith Corcoran Eustis promptly made her mark on the plantation’s gardens and updated the greenhouse. Today you see the fruits of her labors in the design of the parterres and artful display of tulips, peonies, irises and lilies.

A bowling green and reflecting pool share a long terrace, with Edith’s tea house anchoring one side and statuary anchoring the other.

After leisurely enjoying the gardens and the dependencies, mosey on up to the front porch of the mansion for a guided tour of its first floor. Rooms are restored to either the Carter or Eustis era, giving insight to the lives of the families who lived here.

Among the unexpected treasures are a set of china from George and Martha Washington, as well as a lock of hair from our first president. Take a self-guided tour of the second floor, with interpretive signage to help you along the way. Featured is the room where First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt often stayed when she listed Oatlands.

Stop by the gift shop for books, tea accessories, frames, jewelry, artwork, glassware, ornaments, toys, garden-related items and Oatlands merchandise, all lasting reminders of a great day trip.

When you go…

• Oatlands is open from Monday-Saturday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday, 1-5 p.m.
• The last mansion tour of the day is held at 4 p.m., and grounds close at 5 p.m.
• Admission is $10 for adults, $9 for seniors and $7 for students (6-16).
• Group rates are available.
• Programs for scouts and summer programs are offered.
• Tickets are sold in the Carriage House gift shop.
• Restrooms are also found in the Carriage House.
• Pets are not allowed.

 

 

Upcoming events…

• May 7 – First Saturday Plantation Tour
• May 15 – Jazz and Juleps Fundraiser
• June 4 – First Saturday Plantation Tour
• June 12 – Vintage Baseball Day by the Loudoun Preservation Society
• June 26 – 200^th Birthday Party for Oatlands Greenhouse

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

Gari Melchers Home and Studio at Belmont

Destination: Fredericksburg, Virginia

The Gari Melchers Home and Studio at Belmont, just across the Rappahannock River and outside the town of Fredericksburg, is a time capsule dedicated to the life and work of a multi-faceted artist who once enjoyed international acclaim. A visit will properly acquaint you with him, and surely endear him to you.

The elegant-yet-homey country house, filled with his personal knick knacks and eclectic mix of furnishings, reveals much about Gari Melchers (1860-1932) and exudes warmth not typically associated with the period. His studio reveals even more about the talented American impressionist, who explored several distinct styles throughout his career.

Not familiar with the work of Gari Melchers? Neither was I until just last week, and that’s why this day trip feels a bit like a gift. A fitting analogy, since Melchers’ widow, Corinne, deeded the estate to the Commonwealth of Virginia in 1942 as a lasting tribute to her husband.

Gari Melchers’ talent was in the honest characterization of the everyday people around him. He celebrated local villagers caught in their routine moments, both in the Dutch seaside community where he once resided and here, near Belmont.

He also painted the rich and famous – people with names like Vanderbilt, Mellon and Roosevelt. His work has timeless appeal for its depiction of a slice-of-life. Melchers was capturing on his canvas real people, whether famous or not, unadorned and unplugged. His personal mantra was “true and clear.”

The best way to start the day is with the brief biographical video shown in the Visitors Center, where tickets may be purchased and a wealth of information is given away. Next, a tour of the couple’s 18^th century home brings their lives into focus.

As a docent leads you through each room, you’ll get to know Gari and Corinne Melchers through stories about their courtship, daily routines, marriage and partnership. And you’ll feel their presence through abundant signs of life – keys, books, reading glasses, a shaving kit and even Dutch clogs from Gari’s early days in Holland. It’s as if our hosts have just stepped out to visit the local pub.

Their personal art collection fills the walls, and anecdotes about these paintings have a certain entertainment factor. You quickly get the idea that Gari and Corinne Melchers were likeable, fun people.

But that’s not to say that Gari Melchers was not serious about his work. Those who knew him well described him as a man who, quite simply, lived to paint.

The artist’s devotion to his work is evidenced by a visit to the nearby studio building, which Melchers designed in 1924 to incorporate a dramatic window granting him that one essential ingredient: Northern light.

Stepping into the studio allows you to enter his creative world. The drop-dead gorgeous setting is filled with Melchers’ original tools – worn and aged tubes of paint, varnish, pastels and brushes, as well as numerous paintings by the artist and his colleagues.

Of note is an unfinished painting, From the Porch, with a small practice piece next to it. The painting was probably in progress at the time of the artist’s death in 1932.

The studio and its two lower galleries showcase the span of Melchers’ career – from his beginning as a realistic painter, through the Dutch years, and to his celebrated period as an American impressionist.

Many of the paintings from his time at Belmont – back when he walked the streets of Falmouth in white coveralls looking for subjects to paint – are on display. It is these paintings of the local folks that made him famous in the art circles of both New York City and San Francisco.

Be sure to explore the grounds of the 27-acre retreat, where outbuildings include a spring house, smoke house, cow barn and stable. Trails at Belmont lead through groomed gardens and along woodland walks, and a free map is available at the Visitors Center. Although the trip to the river is just 20 minutes, the terrain is uneven and proper footwear is recommended.

Finally, linger in the colorful, restored gardens on stone pathways that are lined with boxwood shrubs and trimmed with rose-covered arbors – the perfect place to ponder an artist who has almost been forgotten yet still has the power to delight.

Would Gari Melchers mind that his work no longer receives the recognition that it once did? I tend to doubt it. He woke up everyday to witness the pastoral beauty of this retreat. He had found and married the love of his life. And every single day, he got to do what he loved most of all.

As the artist himself explained it, “Nothing matters in the world to the painter, but a good picture.”

Amy’s Café … Down by the River

Amy’s Café is located in a cozy 200-year-old brick building in Falmouth Bottom. This building and many of the others in the small village have changed little since Gari and Corrine Melchers lived at Belmont, and photos of their old ‘hood line the walls.

Amy’s serves good old-fashioned breakfasts, soups, salads, appetizers and dinners, plus a decent array of beer and wine. You’ll hear live acoustic music here on Saturday afternoons, and Happy Hour is every Monday through Friday from 3-7 p.m.

We stopped by on a recent Saturday afternoon for some loaded nachos, a couple of beers and a history lesson – learning that Amy’s is constructed mostly of ballast bricks from a cargo ships, and that it has served as a tavern, a cotton warehouse and a general store.

With all those previous lives, I wondered aloud if the place was haunted. To that, our server quickly presented photographic evidence of paranormal activity at Amy’s.

Stop in for a bite, and see for yourself …

When you go …

• The museum is open from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. daily except on Wednesdays.
• Tickets are $10 for adults, $9 for AAA members and free for students 18 & under.
• Group tours, multigenerational family tours and field trips are available.
• Guided woodland walks are offered on the last Sunday of every month at 2 p.m.
• Leashed dogs are welcome on the grounds (please clean up after Fido).
• Restrooms are located in the Visitors Center
• Picnic tables are scattered throughout the grounds.
• Special events (a Rose Workshop and Belmont Stakes at Belmont) are offered.
• To enhance your visit, watch the brief video “True and Clear” before you go.
• The Gari Melchers Home and Studio is under the administration of the University of Mary Washington.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

The White House and Museum of the Confederacy

Destination: Richmond, Virginia

The meticulously restored home of Jefferson Davis, the president of the Confederate States of America, is a bit incongruous with its surroundings. Smack dab in the middle of a bustling VCU Medical Center with the Civil War 150 years in the past, it looks as though it has been deposited there by time machine.

The juxtaposition of the White House of the Confederacy with its modern setting has received criticism from some visitors. But consider that this stately Southern mansion, a part of the indelible history of all Americans, is tucked on its parcel of land amid a place of healing – in a state where much of the fighting took place. Then consider that 150 years was not all that long ago, in the grand scheme of things.

The White House of the Confederacy was Richmond’s social and political epicenter during the War Between the States. A guided tour, combined with a visit to its companion museum, gives a glimpse at the lives of the people – from the president and his generals to the soldiers and their families.

A docent leads you through the home on an engaging tour that shares the history of the building, from its construction in 1818 for $20,000 through to its present-day reincarnation as a National Historic Landmark.

Eleven rooms are displayed, and all have been restored to their appearance at the time of the Civil War. Furniture and items (except for the textiles) are original to the period, and many were owned by Jefferson Davis and his family.

The rosewood table in the dining room is original, and that’s where the Confederate president met with Robert E. Lee and other key figures to discuss strategy. You can’t help but wish these walls could talk.

On a lighter note, the small cannon in the Children’s Room is not a toy; it’s a piece of miniature artillery owned by Davis’ five-year-old son. The story goes that he was allowed to play with it in the house … until he loaded it up with gunpowder, outfitted it with teensy-tiny fuses, and fired it.

The garden outside is faithfully maintained through the generosity of the President Davis Chapter of the United Daughters of the Confederacy. It’s a great place to transition back to the present day, take a few photos and digest what you’ve seen.

Just next door, the Museum of the Confederacy takes a look at the Confederate soldiers and families – boasting the world’s most comprehensive collection of Confederate artifacts in its three floors of unique exhibits.

The flagship exhibit, The Confederate Years, serves as an excellent primer for those of us who weren’t quite paying attention in history class. Civil War buffs will also enjoy it for its depth and level of detail.

Highlights include the rustic headquarters tent of Robert E. Lee. It was said by Lee’s chief of staff, Walter Taylor, that he was “never so uncomfortable as when he was comfortable.”

The museum is also home to Lee’s Confederate grey uniform frock coat, along with his French made ceremonial sword. Both were on Lee when he met with Grant to discuss surrender at Appomattox, and soon they will become a part of the permanent collection at a new museum that is under construction there.

Numerous flags, including the elegant and newly restored 4 foot by 5 foot Caroline Grey, are featured. Handcrafted and presented by the ladies of Caroline County, it depicts 36 men in uniform on the reverse side. Curators have speculated that the distinct faces could be miniature portraits of the soldiers.

In contrast, a larger-than-life highlight of the museum is The Last Meeting, Edward B. D. Julio’s 1869 painting of the last encounter of Lee and Jackson. At 15 feet high and 9 feet wide, including the frame that was also made by the artist, it captures a significant moment between the most famous generals of the Confederacy.

Two new exhibits on the lower level help bring the war into focus on a more personal note. The War Comes Home covers how war altered daily life in the South, and at the same time, how life went on.

People still got married and raised children during the period, and the stuff of their lives is on display here. Original copies of Dixie Children: A Geographical Reader, and Southern Confederate Arithmetic make clear that things were abnormally normal.

Knickknackery showcases articles that are a bit quirky, including a prosthetic arm made of boiled leather and a smuggling doll used to transport much-need quinine. The Currier and Ives three-way Davis-Lee-Jackson picture is not to be missed, along with POW autograph books, Civil War valentines and a scrapbook owned by J.E.B. Stuart.

On the museum’s upper level, Between the Battles illustrates how soldiers occupied their idle time when not in combat. Items they made and used are enhanced by photographs and quotes, giving the soldiers a face and a voice.

Not ready to go home yet? Stop by the Jefferson Hotel for a spot of tea. Contrary to popular belief, the polished marble staircase at the Jefferson was not used in “Gone with the Wind.” But don’t let that stop you from visiting this grand old hotel – it has an illustrious past, nonetheless.

A small display case on the first floor shares the history of this place where John D. Rockefeller, Henry Ford, Charles Lindberg, Charlie Chaplin and Elvis Presley all counted sheep.

The hotel was built in 1895 by Lewis Ginter, who served in the Confederate Army and reached the rank of major. After the war he made partner in an innovative tobacco company, which later became the American Tobacco Company.

The Jefferson’s domed glass skylight of Tiffany glass is the original, as is the life-size statue of Thomas Jefferson created by famed Richmond sculptor Edward Valentine. Both survived a devastating fire that swept through the hotel in 1901. Sadly the statue was beheaded during rescue efforts, but fortunately Valentine was able to repair it in his nearby studio.

Afternoon tea is served every Friday through Sunday in the Palm Court, amid all that history. Reservations for seatings between 3 and 4:15 p.m. and may be made by calling (804) 649-4661.

On the way out of town, drive down Monument Avenue – where statues of Jefferson Davis, J.E.B. Stuart, Robert E. Lee, Stonewall Jackson and two additional Richmond residents of note line the street as an example of the Grand American Avenue style of city planning.

The architecture of surrounding homes and churches provides a gracious backdrop and an interesting conclusion to the day.

When you go …

• Hours of operation are Monday-Saturday from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday from noon-5 p.m.
• The museum is open from 10 a.m.-5:00 p.m Monday-Sunday Memorial Day through Labor Day.
• The museum is closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day, and it closes at 2:00 p.m. on Christmas Eve.  The White House is closed in January for restoration and cleaning.
• Tickets for the White House and the Museum of the Confederacy are sold at the museum.
• Admission to either site is $9 for adults and $5 for ages 7-13. A combination ticket is available at $12 for adults and $7 for children.
• Group rates and special tours are available, as well as discounts for AA members, active duty military and senior citizens.
• Photography is allowed inside the Museum but not the White House.
• A small gift shop called The Haversack Store is located on the first floor.
• Parking is free when validated by the museum. The parking deck is located at 550 North 12^th Street.

 

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
All photos, except as noted, copyright 2011 Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

Fredericksburg, By George!

The Fredericksburg area offers enough historic sites to make your wig spin – the George Washington themed attractions alone could fill an entire weekend. So this day trip is best suited for a Saturday, when museums are open earlier and you are more apt to stay in town a little later.

The Fredericksburg Visitors Center at 706 Caroline Street is the best place to get started. The doors open at 9 a.m. on Saturdays, and the center offers maps, brochures, discount admission tickets and dining recommendations. Think of these folks as your local travel agents.

A Timeless Ticket can be purchased here for $32 per adult, granting access to nine area attractions for a savings of 40%. If you’ll be doing everything I did, it makes good sense to pick one up. And any portion of the ticket that doesn’t get used initially can be used on another day, so you really can’t lose.

A 14-minute audiovisual presentation sets the stage for what you will see in and around town, and a 75-minute trolley tour – departing from outside the center for an additional fee of $17 for adults and $8 for children 5 to 12 – will fill in any gaps. You’ll get your lay of the land that George Washington once called home, and then you can start exploring on your own.

There are a few must-sees if you are interested in the area’s most famous resident, and at the top of the list is the Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop and Physick Garden at 1020 Caroline Street.

Tours of this circa 1760 little shop of horrors – frequented by Mary Washington – are given by costumed re-enactors and feature cures for whatever ails you. Tools of the trade – a tooth puller, a pocket lancet and live leeches – are brandished as the guide describes their use. My advice? When the doctor’s apprentice asks you how you are feeling, answer, “Just fine, thanks!”

The building that houses the Rising Sun Tavern at 1304 Caroline Street was built by Charles Washington at about the same time, and it was originally the residence of the brother of our first president. It was later converted to a tavern, and today bar wenches and indentured servants show you around what was once the bustling port’s finest dining and lodging establishment.

The tap room features a reconstructed bar cage and dining area, complete with pewter tankards and faux foods. The tour is lively and informative and enlightens us on the origins of idioms such as “Drink like a fish,” “Mind your Ps and Qs,” and “Bottoms up!”

Historic Kenmore at 1201 Washington Street was built in 1775 as the home of George Washington’s sister Betty and her husband, Fielding Lewis. You’ll walk through an entryway in an ivy covered garden wall to gain access to Kenmore’s visitors center, where you can see a diorama of the Fredericksburg of old and imagine what life must have been like there.

This Georgian in-town mansion boasts some of the most elaborate plasterwork from Colonial America – most of which is original and intact. The dining room at Kenmore is considered one of America’s most beautiful rooms.

Tours of the mansion give insight into the lives of these famous members of the gentry class, as well as the process of creating their famous plasterwork. You’ll learn the touching story of the plasterwork restoration by a young man who may have been destined for his role in history.

The Mary Washington House at 1200 Charles Street was purchased by George for his 64-year-old mother in 1772 so that she could live in town and near her daughter Betty at Kenmore. Some of Mary’s possessions are here, along with period furnishings, and a tour of the house shows how she lived and entertained for the last 17 years of her life.

History is found at every street corner in Fredericksburg. George Washington’s Masonic Lodge #4 still stands at 803 Princess Anne Street and, while it’s not open to the general public, it still functions for monthly meetings on the second Friday of every month.

Another site worth seeing – if only from the exterior — is the Lewis Store on the corner of Caroline and Lewis Streets. Built in 1749 and awaiting restoration, it’s one of the oldest urban retail buildings in the United States. The Washington family often shopped here, and George’s sister married the founder’s son.

Cross the Rappahannock River by following William Street east and follow the signs to Ferry Farm, the boyhood home of George Washington. When the Washington family lived here in the eighteenth century, it was the edge of the frontier.

Some of our favorite legends about young George began in this place, and you can take a self-guided tour of the 80-plus acres and ponder the life of the man who would become our first president.

Unlike the days of old, Fredericksburg now boasts dozens of dining options. Eileen’s Bakery and Café at 1115 Caroline Street has the distinction of being housed in a circa 1833 Reformed Baptist Church. Heavenly breads, pastries, cakes, cookies, salads, soups and sandwiches are offered everyday except Mondays.

The Capital Ale House at 917 Caroline Street is found in a 200-year-old building that has been stylishly updated while retaining its historic character. Certified Angus Beef, fresh seafood, poultry, and vegetarian dishes are on the menu, along with beer. Lots and lots of beer.

Over 62 craft and imported beers are on tap, and 300 are available by the bottle. Bring your growlers to refill for a sudsy souvenir of the day in Fredericksburg.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean except as noted. All rights reserved.

Gunston Hall: Where Eagles Soar

Destination: Mason Neck, Virginia

Patriot George Mason fought for personal rights and individual liberties, and his home now shares a peninsula with 6,000 acres dedicated to the protection of the bald eagle.

Mason Neck is not always the first place that comes to mind when looking for a great escape. That’s puzzling, because two-thirds of its land is preserved by regional, state and federal authorities, making it the oasis that’s just around the corner.

The peninsula is tucked in southeastern Fairfax County and surrounded on three sides by water – the Potomac River, Gunston Cove and Belmont and Pohick Bays. History swirls around this swath of land, as well.

Mason Neck takes its name from a family who made quite an impact on the colony of Virginia. Georges all, they were politicians, landowners and farmers.

Gunston Hall
Our George Mason was fourth in the line, a private man who was both a successful tobacco planter and a reluctant politician. By 1755 he was living on what was then known as Doegs’ Neck, and he began construction on Gunston Hall, so named for his ancestral home in England.

Today Gunston Hall is open to the public, but ironically George Mason’s accomplishments are better known in Europe than in the United States. A visit to his home is a must for lovers of liberty and students of democracy, affording us the opportunity to get to know a true American patriot who has become a bit of a mystery over the years.

To begin the day, watch a brief orientation film about his life and times in the Visitors Center, and learn about his significant contributions as author of the Virginia Declaration of Rights. Then gather on the front porch of the mansion for an insightful docent-led tour.

While Mason designed the Georgian-style home and was involved with its construction, he did have the assistance of a talented team, carpenter-joiner William Buckland and carver William Bernard Sears. And enslaved African Americans surely comprised the majority of the workforce of craftsman who contributed to the project.

The wealth and significance of the man who owned this manor is evidenced by its elaborately carved woodwork and exquisite 18^th century furniture. The formal parlor, in the Palladian style, was once used for formal entertaining and political talk. It’s now considered one of the 100 most beautiful homes in America.

Across the hallway is the little parlor where Mason did much of his thinking. It is entirely possible that he crafted the Virginia Declaration of Rights, which was the inspiration for the Bill of Rights, at this room’s simple desk. In fact, since many of the mansion’s furnishings were used by the Mason family during their time here, the visitor gets an accurate peek at how they lived.

A tour of the upstairs is self-guided. Be sure to walk through the yard and visit the garden, kitchen yard, slave quarter site, schoolhouse, burial ground and nature trail to the river, as well. A museum shop, interpretive exhibits and restrooms are found in the Visitors Center, and a picnic area is nearby.

Pohick Church
George Mason served on the building committee for Pohick Church, along with George Washington and George William Fairfax. Washington was a surveyor, so he found the perfect spot for the church – halfway between Gunston Hall and Mount Vernon – but even that did not ensure a lasting friendship between the two Founding Fathers, who had conflicting views during the writing of the Constitution.

A guide for a recommended walking tour is available inside the church, so you can literally walk in their footsteps. And you can attend services here on Sundays to take in the surroundings from where both Washington and Mason once worshipped. Handcrafted needlepoint kneelers and seat covers depict their respective homes and illustrate the talents of the more recent Pohick Church community.

Mason Neck National Wildlife Refuge
Elizabeth Hartwell Mason Neck National Wildlife Refuge opened in 1969 as the first national wildlife refuge established for the nesting, feeding and roosting of the bald eagle. Such measures brought the bird back from the brink of extinction, and it now shares its 2,227-acre park with migrating ducks, raptors and songbirds.

Several trails bring the day hiker into this limited-access sanctuary, and the most accessible is the ¾-mile-long Great Marsh Trail on Gunston Road. After a long, paved, even hike, you’ll be rewarded with a platform that offers a sweeping view of one of the largest freshwater marshes on the Potomac River.

Another viewing platform can be reached from the 3-mile-long Woodmarsh Trail, a circuit hike with parking off High Point Road. Because this trail is composed of gravel and compacted dirt it’s subject to becoming muddy following rainstorms, so proper footwear is recommended.

The High Point Trail is 3 miles long and paved for use by both hikers and bikers. The trail begins in the Woodmarsh Trail parking lot and leads through the wildlife refuge and over to Mason Neck State Park.

Mason Neck State Park
Right next door, Mason Neck State Park shares the mission of protecting the bald eagle. A fantastic family destination, it offers several easy hiking trails and a couple of moderate ones, as well as a playground, picnic area, restrooms and a canoe/kayak launch.

Canoe and kayak rentals are available at the Visitors Center, and you can also book guided expeditions along Belmont Bay and Kane’s Creek. Paddle through the natural habitat of majestic birds and busy beavers during morning, afternoon or evening trips, and see George Mason’s stomping ground from a different vantage point.

Twilight trips are offered to paddlers over the age of 18 on Friday evenings before or during a full moon – the perfect way to end a day on Mason Neck. If you love the water, a day trip to the marshland and shoreline of Mason Neck will tide you over until the next time you can take a vacation on the coast.

When you go …

• Tours of Gunston Hall are offered daily every half-hour from 9:30 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
• Admission to the mansion is $9 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for children ages 6-18.
• Admission to Pohick Church is free.
• Admission to Elizabeth Hartwell Mason Neck National Wildlife Refuge is free.
• Admission to Mason Neck State Park is $4 per car on weekends, $3 on weekdays.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2011, Paul Jean. All rights reserved.

The Battle of Antietam: A Cruel Mother of Invention

Destination: Sharpsburg, Maryland

The sesquicentennial anniversary of the Civil War is upon us. Commemorate a turning point by visiting Antietam Battlefield, and learn about innovative caregivers and countless unsung heroes of the day.

Antietam National Battlefield
Nothing can prepare the visitor for the eerie calm of this hallowed ground. Today re-enactors gather, and for a split second they appear to have dropped in from the past. I couldn’t help but wonder if ghosts of the Blue and the Gray linger in cornfields and surrounding woods at night, long after tourists have gone home.

Don’t know much about the Civil War? That’s no reason to shy away from Antietam Battlefield. This is a place of learning, and of trying to make sense of the horrific casualties of September 17, 1862.

The Battle of Antietam was the single bloodiest day in American military history. During a 12-hour period of savage fighting, 23,000 soldiers were killed, wounded or missing as Confederate and Union troops converged in the quiet farming community.

When the fighting was over, the outcome was a draw. But the Confederates had failed to gain a win on Northern soil, and Abraham Lincoln soon issued the Emancipation Proclamation declaring that all slaves in Confederate territory were free.

Audiovisual presentations and exhibits at the Visitors Center give a broad understanding of the battle, and the award-winning 30-minute orientation film “Antietam Visit” is shown every half-hour. A more in-depth movie is shown at noon.

Most people take the 8 ½-mile self-guided driving tour, but hikers and bicyclists are also welcome. The gift shop sells audiotape and CD programs to enhance the experience, and rangers are available to answer questions and provide maps to get you started.

Visitors seeking a more personalized tour can enlist Antietam Battlefield Guides, a service that provides knowledgeable guides to suit your needs – they’ll even drive your car through the park for you. The standard tour lasts 2 ½ hours, costs $75 and must be reserved by calling (301) 432-4329.

Horse drawn carriage rides of the battlefield are also offered, with personalized tours starting at $75. Some tours are available without a reservation on Saturdays and Sundays, but it’s best to book ahead by calling (304) 876-1307 or visiting www.bonnymeedfarm.com.

The Pry House Field Hospital Museum
The Pry House Field Hospital Museum, in the restored farmhouse of Phillip Pry, focuses on field medicine as it was practiced at the Battle of Antietam. The selfless heroes of the war — its civilian volunteers, surgeons and other caregivers – are honored for both their sacrifices and innovative thinking.

While the human toll was unthinkable, the Battle of Antietam did result in a new approach to triage, emergency medical treatment and evacuation that is still in use today, thanks largely to the work of Jonathan Letterman.

In 1862, the Pry home was converted to the headquarters of General George B. McClellan and used as a field hospital for Union officers. The general and his entourage lived and camped here and had a perfect view of the battlefield.

McClellan tasked Letterman to organize a new ambulance system for the Army of the Potomac, and so the surgeon devised a plan and gave every regiment two horse-drawn ambulances, each with a driver, two litters and two men to assist the wounded.

When September came, Letterman partially implemented his plan and efficiently evacuated wounded soldiers from the battlefield to pre-selected field hospitals. As a result, all of the wounded were removed within an unprecedented 36 hours, and a new system was born.

Clara Barton was one of the most recognized civilians to aid soldiers in the relief of their suffering, and from her empathy and swift action at Antietam came advances in the humane treatment of wounded warriors.

Barton brought fresh medical supplies and clean drinking water to the field hospital at nearby Poffenberger Farm, and she also performed minor surgery on the battlefield with a pocket knife while shots were fired around her. She went on to establish the American Red Cross in 1881 and served as its president until 1904.

The museum honors the legacy of these and other caregivers who tended to the wounded and dying with little regard for personal safety. A highlight is the Civil War operating theater, with its life-size diorama of Jonathan Letterman performing surgery on General Hooker – a scene that may be too grisly for young history buffs.

Most visitors enjoy the debunking of popular myths, such as the persistent legend that Civil War surgeons were little more than hacks and that the anesthesia of choice was a bullet between the molars. The truth is that most amputations were entirely necessary, and proper anesthesia was used in 95% of the surgeries performed.

The National Museum of Civil War Medicine
America emerged from the medical dark ages as a direct result of what was learned during the Civil War, and the National Museum of Civil War Medicine in Frederick serves to illustrate the point.

An excellent compliment to the Pry House, The National Museum of Civil War Medicine brings into even greater focus the challenges faced by Civil War medical personnel and the innovations that resulted from their necessity. The experience is made personal with the stories of soldiers, surgeons, medics and nurses, as well as case studies of their patients.

Two full floors of informative exhibits and numerous life-size dioramas of scenes both on and off the battlefield make this a particularly engaging museum for people of all interest levels.

Now a 30-minute drive from Sharpsburg, Frederick was once considered a crossroad of the Civil War, and much of the period’s architecture survives.

When you go …

• A three-day pass to Antietam Battlefield is $4 per person or $6 per family.
• The battlefield is open all year long, with current hours from 8:30 a.m. – 5 p.m.
• A breathtaking Memorial Illumination is held on the first Saturday in December.
• The Pry House is open from 11 a.m. – 5 p.m., and a $2 donation is recommended.
• Admission to the Museum of Civil War Medicine is $7.50 for adults, $5.50 for children.
• The museum is open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday – Saturday; 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday.
• Guided tours may be booked at www.civilwarmed.org.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

Gallery of Historical Images

Dogs Love Duke of Gloucester Street

Destination: Williamsburg, Virginia

Do you believe in ghosts? If you and your best friend love to sniff out a scary good time, visit DOG Street in Williamsburg. By day it’s a pet friendly destination that takes you back in time, but in the evening you may just enter a whole ‘nother dimension.

When it comes to Colonial history, no one does it better than Williamsburg: 301 acres of 18^th century living and learning, garnished with enough brick, ivy, candles and formal gardens to make the Redcoats surrender to our impeccable taste.

But this town of elegance and order has a dark side, and an Original Ghosts of Williamsburg Candlelight Tour will bring it out of hiding. Although there are several such tours operating in town, this is the one we tried, and we highly recommend for its lively storytelling and documented tales.

When you get into town stop by the Williamsburg General Store at 1656 Richmond Road to buy your ticket for a tour the same night, or purchase it online at www.theghosttour.com. The cost is $11 per adult and free for kids under the age of six, as well as for canines of all ages.

With the remainder of the day explore the Historic Triangle, since dogs are welcome at all three of the major historic venues.

A fee of $10 gains seven-day access to Historic Jamestowne. Found at the end of the Colonial Parkway, this was the location of the first successful English colony in America. Dogs are allowed on the grounds and not in the buildings, but you’ll still get the flavor of the era through a number of outdoor activities, re-enactments and events.

Fast forward about 170 years by driving to the other end of the Colonial Parkway – Yorktown Battlefield also welcomes pets in most areas (but not indoors), and admission is included in the price of the aforementioned pass. It was here that British troops surrendered in 1781, effectively ending the American Revolutionary War.

If there is still daylight to be had, stroll along Duke of Gloucester Street in the heart of Colonial Williamsburg and enjoy the sights, starting inMerchants Square.

Hungry yet? The Cheese Shop makes sandwiches and salads to order, along with cheese and charcuterie boards. Browse the menu at http://www.cheeseshopwilliamsburg.com/sandwiches and call in your order at (757) 220-0298; your meal will be ready for pick-up from the outdoor window, and tables are conveniently located in front of the building.

An admission fee is not required to walk down Duke of Gloucester Street, affectionately called DOG Streetby the locals, but donations are accepted. Fido isn’t welcome inside any of the buildings, despite the pineapples of hospitality that abound.

Hoofing it along the main thoroughfare brings you through the restored area and is about two miles, round trip. You’ll see the Governor’s Palace, Capitol, Courthouse, Blacksmith, Printing Office and Magazine, as well as the home of Peyton Randolph, one of Virginia’s leading politicians. This is reportedly the most haunted building in Williamsburg, so you’ll learn more about it on the ghost tour.

Participants convene at 7:45 p.m. in front of the William and Mary Bookstore at 345 W. Duke of Gloucester Street, and the tour leaves at 8 promptly. You’ll visit the College of William and Mary’s campus as well as much of Duke of Gloucester Street, so wear walking shoes and bring an umbrella for seasonal showers.

Our guide was animated and well-versed in the history of the area, and he presented the stories of L.B. Taylor, author of The Ghosts of Williamsburg, The Ghosts of Tidewater and other spine-tingling tales. The evening started out all light and happy, but by the end of the tour even the skeptics were seeing dead people.

That’s not to say that it’s terrifying … there were several kids on the tour, and they didn’t seem daunted. Maybe I just wanted to believe because Halloween is coming and the leaves are turning and I love Williamsburg. But that really doesn’t explain some of the anomalies that appeared in our photos from the evening. Be sure to bring a digital camera to see for yourself.

Rather than drive home late at night, we opted to stay at the LaQuinta Inn on Capitol Landing Road. It’s pet-friendly and they don’t charge a security deposit, regardless of the size of your dog.

We lived in Williamsburg about 15 years ago, so on the way up I-64 we stopped by the venerable Pierce’s Pitt Bar-B-Que to see what’s cooking. This is their 40^th year in business, and they’re still turning out amazing chicken and pork ‘Q with all the fixings. Note that it is customary to be served cole slaw inside your sandwich, so be sure to tell them if you want it on the side.

Picnic tables outside make Pierce’s a great spot to eat with Fido. Just don’t forget the bug spray!

Worth mentioning …

• Carry a water dish and refill it from the restrooms that are tucked around town.
• Always carry disposable bags so you can clean up after your dog.
• Use a leash at all times when you are in any of the historic areas.
• Move your pet’s travel crate into the hotel room. Dogs derive a sense of security from their little shelters, and we derive the comfort of knowing they won’t trash the place.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

National Sporting Art Museum Opens with ‘Afield in America’

Destination: Middleburg,Virginia

The topic of equestrian and field art conjures up jaunty images of steeplechase races and pedigreed pets. But the new National Sporting Art Museum in Middleburg goes well beyond the expected by illustrating how our country’s contributions to the genre have evolved, developing a distinct style that’s rooted in the wild place America once was.

Here we become witness to the visceral dance of predator versus prey, whether viewing a painting of a man and his son bonding while bagging dinner or of a fox pursuing his solitary meal in the freshly fallen snow. The new museum, opened on October 7, deftly reveals that the essence of sporting art is anything but genteel and aristocratic.

The inaugural exhibit is a collection for everyone to enjoy. Afield in America: 400 Years of Animal and Sporting Art reaches back to the exploration and colonization of America and follows the young country through times when hunting was not just a pastime, but a means for survival.

Nearly 150 works are artfully arranged in themed rooms, beginning with Artists, Naturalists and Explorers. This gallery pays homage to the keen observers who chronicled the exotic flora and fauna they encountered in theNew World. Their art is engraved, etched and colored by hand in remarkably well-kept, over-sized volumes.

In Budding National Style, we see works that becomes increasingly less European in flavor, forming the foundation of American sporting art. The rooms that follow highlight specialized fields: Equine introduces the sport of kings, Angling features a small collection of relatively rare fishing art and Wildlife and Livestock explore a variety of themes.

Hunting with Hounds captures that quintessential Middleburg feeling, along with a Portraits room that features the Hunt and its colorful characters. These galleries sweep the viewer up into the moment and, whether a lover of equestrian sports or not, it’s “Tally-ho” for a time.

The endearing Pet gallery features two of the Dogs Playing Poker series commissioned in 1903 by Brown and Bigelow and painted by C. M. Coolidge to advertise cigars. While still considered low-brow art in some circles, they’ve been given prominent display for their significant place in American art history.

Trompe L’Oeil and Still Life exhibit traditionally European techniques that have been adapted to depict the American experience with numerous catches of the day strung on cabin doors – some rustic and others famous.

In Shooting, art turns decidedly to the new frontier and leads directly to The West, which celebrates works featuring cowboys, Indians, rugged terrain and the individualistic spirit. This is the last pristine land – wild and untamed, to be protected.

The bronze Outlaw by Frederick Remington, Buckaroo by Alexander Proctor and Rough Rider by Solon Borglum convey the strength and courage of the West, along with the spirit of freedom and an element of danger. These are high – and very American – notes to end on.

Afield in America: 400 Years of Animal and Sporting Art is a dramatic and enlightening first exhibit for the new museum. The stylish setting, in a renovated and expanded 1804 manor house in the middle of Hunt Country, further enhances its presentation.

Next door is the National Sporting Library, founded in 1954 and housing over 13,000 books, periodicals, photos, films and manuscripts in a facility that’s open to researchers and the general public. Perched on a hill in historic and horsey Middleburg, the campus is an architectural statement that the equestrian and field sports are alive and well and living in Loudoun County.

Curator Turner Reuter has given his inaugural exhibit broad appeal by taking an evolutionary approach that reflects the diversity ofAmerica’s lifestyles, wildlife and landscapes. It’s as much a lively study of our history as it is a study of art.

The French Hound
Middleburg is Loudoun County’s alternative to the shopping mall. With upscale shops, fine restaurants, fun bakeries and over a dozen antique stores, you can easily spend a few hours soaking in the unique flavor of the town.

One standout for a relaxing lunch is found at 101 S. Madison Street. Tucked away on a back road in an inviting Federal-style house with sunny Provencal décor, the French Hound is like a quick romp to France — only everyone speaks English and the food is not the least bit off-putting.

Meals are creatively and authentically updated, with lunch offerings that include French-inspired pizzas (the ratatouille, roasted garlic and goat cheese pie is a favorite), as well as soups, salads, sandwiches and desserts. Saucissons et cornichons and les escargot are nods to the traditional, and pumpkin profiteroles bring a bit of Virginia’s harvest to the table.

Lunch is offered on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m., with an additional brunch menu on Sunday. Limited fare is available from 2:30 – 5:30 p.m., dinner from 5:30 – 10 p.m., and more limited fare from 10 – 11 p.m. The restaurant closes at 2:30 p.m. on Sunday. For weekday hours, visit www.thefrenchhound.com.

National Sporting Library and Museum
Museum hours: Wednesday – Saturday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Sunday, noon – 4 p.m.
Library hours: Tuesday – Friday, 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Saturday, 1 – 4 p.m.
Admission: Free
Current exhibit: “Afield in America” closes January 14, 2012
Upcoming exhibit: “The Wildlife Paintings of Bruno Liljefors” opens February, 2012.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.