Maryland

Glen Echo Park and the Clara Barton National Historic Site

Clara Barton dedicated her life to the mending of the human body in times of conflict and natural disaster. So it makes perfect kharmic sense that the last 15 years were spent living at Glen Echo Park, a place that was dedicated to the nurturing of the human mind and spirit.

Travel Back in Time at the Museum of Industry

Glen Echo Park was established in 1888, when two brothers with a winning design for an egg beater used their fame and fortune to mix up the local real estate market. Edwin and Edward Baltzey purchased 516 acres on the Potomac and planned a housing development that would feature a nationally recognized education center, giving residents the opportunity to expand their horizons right in their own backyards.

By the late 19^th century the Chautauqua movement was in full swing, and Glen Echo was chosen as the location of the 53^rd Chautauqua Assembly in 1891. Chautauquas were family-friendly educational summer camps originated by the Methodists in New York, offering speakers, musicians, entertainers, preachers and specialists of the day.

Because the brothers Baltzeys envisioned that their location would host a nationally recognized Chautauqua center, they went big on the design for its grounds – building a 6,000-seat amphitheater over Minnehaha Creek, with water power fueling its speaker system.

They founded a railroad system that would eventually reduce travel time from Washington, D.C., and marketed their endeavor as “The Washington Rhine.” They even attracted a national celebrity, Clara Barton, to live in the new residential community as a testament to its desirability. The brothers appeared to be unstoppable.

Despite a successful first summer, the second year proved much more difficult due to poor weather and an economic downturn. The Chautauqua ended, and the park evolved over the remainder of the decade to include encampments, vaudeville acts and operas. In 1899, amusement park rides arrived on the scene.

By 1903, Glen Echo had become a destination for trolley riders that provided a full day of entertainment for the price of train fare – and by 1911, the park had been improved to include a dance pavilion, miniature train, human roulette wheel and more. Over the years, Glen Echo became known as a state-of-the-art amusement park with a swimming pool that cooled 3,000 bathers.

The 7,500 square foot Spanish Ballroom hosted big bands of the era, and the popularity of the park reached its peak in the 1940s. Attendance dropped off severely from 1944-1950, and Glen Echo closed in 1968 amid social unrest over civil rights. The harsh reality was that the park had failed to become integrated in a graceful manner.

The National Park Service took over Glen Echo Park in 1970, and a renaissance began that would turn Glen Echo into a multi-interest cultural center. Today a partnership between the National Park Service, Montgomery County and the Town of Glen Echo manages the park’s numerous activities.

The nine buildings that make up the Glen Echo Historic District have been preserved and put to good use: renewing the creative spirit of the half-million people who visit here every year.

The park is, perhaps, now best known for its social dances – ranging from American Swing to Contra and Square Dance – held in the Spanish Ballroom on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. They’re open to the public, and the cost of admission – between $5 and $20 – includes a free lesson.

Resident artists specializing in pottery, calligraphy, glasswork, photography and music hold exhibitions, studio hours and classes for children and adults. Festivals and special events are offered several times each year, with Family Day planned for April 30.

That’s when the Dentzel Carousel opens for the season, and visitors can enjoy free rides, as well as face painting, puppet shows, art activities, cake and lemonade. The carousel will offer rides from 12-6 p.m. and 7-10 p.m. Evening activities include a benefit ball, swing dance and more.

On any given day, visitors can also explore nature, ride the carousel, take in a puppet show, enjoy the thriving artist community, romp in the playground and have a picnic at Glen Echo Park — the Baltzey brothers vision has been realized after all, and what’s old is new again. Glen Echo has come full circle.

A guided tour of the nearby Clara Barton National Historic Site reveals much about the woman who was the founder of the American Red Cross. In this 38-room home, Barton lived, worked, stored supplies and housed volunteers, often blurring the line between personal life and vocation to the point of nonexistence.

Best known as the “Angel of the Battlefield,” Barton took care of soldiers from both sides of the Mason-Dixon Line. She corresponded with families of the wounded, enlisting them to send supplies and providing an early inspiration for the American Red Cross.

When the Civil War ended, she launched a national campaign to identify missing soldiers, which took a significant toll on her spirit. She was ordered to take a restful trip to Europe by her doctor, but as we all know, there’s “no rest for the weary.”

Barton joined the relief effort to aid soldiers of the war between France and Prussia, and there she witnessed the Red Cross in action. When she returned to America, her life had a renewed purpose, and she founded the American Red Cross to provide aid for the victims of natural disaster.

In 1891, the Baltzeys lured Barton to Glen Echo with the promise of free labor and a beautiful knoll of land on which to build her residence. Both creative and frugal, she designed a stunning home that exuded warmth and comfort yet remained practical – with hidden nooks and crannies in which to stow muslin bandages and other tools of the healing trade.

The house is restored to the era of Clara Barton’ residency, from the year she moved in to the time of her death at the age of 90 in 1912. A tour gives the visitor a unique opportunity to get to know an outstanding American humanitarian who, with no formal nursing background, devoted her life to the cause of healing the wounded.

The organized chaos of Barton’s office gives insight to a brain that was in constant motion, and her typewriter, copy machine and stapler reveal a woman who was not afraid to embrace the technology of the day.

In honor of the 150^th anniversary of Clara Barton’s first Civil War relief effort, an open house will be held on April 16 from 7-9 p.m., with the dramatic production, “Clara Barton: Red Cross Angel” at 7:30 p.m. The event is free and will take place around a campfire on the grounds outside the house. Advanced registration is recommended by calling (301) 320-1410.

For a recharge before the trip home, stop at the Irish Inn at Glen Echo for lunch, dinner or Sunday jazz brunch.

This historic restaurant offers traditional Irish and contemporary American food in a neighborhood setting, with several options – formal, elegant dining rooms, an outdoor deck with a canopy and heaters, and a traditional pub. The menu includes everything from the customary bangers and mash and fish and chips to the unexpected lamb skewers and grilled salmon nicoise.

When you go…

• Tours of Glen Echo Park are offered on Saturdays and Sundays at 2 p.m.
• Carousel tours give an in-depth look at the 1921 ride and its 52 animals and are offered at 3:30 p.m. through April 29 and at 10:30 a.m. from April 30 through September 30.
• The Civil Rights Story of Glen Echo Park is told on a 30-minute walking tour of the grounds, held once a month.
• All tours of Glen Echo Park depart from the Visitors Center in the Arcade Building.
• The Ballroom Café, located at the end of the Spanish Ballroom, serves light food; check website for hours.
• Tours of Clara Barton’s home meet on the porch.
• All tours at both Glen Echo Park and the Clara Barton House are free, as is abundant parking.
• For visitor information and a schedule of activities, visit www.glenecho.org.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean.  All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean.  All rights reserved.

Travel Back in Time at the Museum of Industry

Destination: Baltimore, Maryland

Surely there are ghosts in the Baltimore Museum of Industry. Dedicated to the Industrial Revolution in what was once America’s fastest growing city, its rooms bring to life a cannery, a machine shop, a printing shop and a garment factory down to their finest details. The only thing missing is the work force that fueled this time in history – with the sweat of its labor and their hope for a good life.

The Industrial Revolution in America, spanning most of the 19^th century, ushered in a dramatic improvement in the country’s standard of living. Suddenly a steady stream of goods was available as a result of the shift from making products by hand to mass-producing them by machine. And at the center of it all was Baltimore.

The fastest growing city in the United States and its third largest by the year 1820, Baltimoreans produced everything from underwear to overalls, from automobiles to the bridges that carried them. Merchant ships crammed Charm City’s harbor, and factories lined its docks – all trying to put a stake in the game they thought would never end.

The Museum of Industry’s building was formerly the home of Landra Beach Platt’s 19^th century oyster, fruit and vegetable canning plant. The first room you will likely visit recreates the mood of the former factory and explains the oystering process from dredging and shucking the bivalves to canning them. The demonstration of a conveyor belt overhead shatters the peace, leading visitors to wonder just how noisy a fully functioning oyster plant would have been.

And it begs another important question: Why is this fascinating museum is so quiet? On a Saturday in May, just a handful of visitors wandered around enjoying the industrial history of Baltimore – commemorated so beautifully that it’s almost an art form.

That brings home the point that the time is right to discover Baltimore’s Museum of Industry – before everyone else does. Take advantage of the guided tour – by docent or by iPod – visit each room and learn about the industry it represents.

Since a city teeming with machinery needed to keep it all properly maintained, the museum’s enormous, working machine shop shows us how. A blacksmith is on hand most Saturdays to explain the works and demonstrate his trade.

Foodies marvel at the exhibits that follow, where machinery from the hot dog industry and period photography may make you squeamish … or nauseous … or both. Baltimore was the home of Esskay Franks and McCormack Spices, and it’s still the home of Domino Sugar.

Display cases about the dairy, soda and baking industries are downright nostalgic with pop bottles and memorabilia. A docent tells the story of Hendler’s brilliant marketing plan to promote their ice cream by providing local pharmacies with free fountain set-ups – making you realize that ingenuity is a Baltimore product, too.

By 1884 Baltimore was home to 104 printers, and typesetting was bringing about another revolution – the growth of literacy in the United States. The museum’s working linotype machine – manned by a printer on Saturdays – illustrates just how labor-intensive the newspaper industry was in a world without computers.

Did you know that … Baltimore was once the umbrella capital of the world? Polan Katz boasted umbrellas that were “born in Baltimore and raised everywhere,” while the Gans Brothers promised “reigning beauty.” By the 20^th century Baltimore was producing 1.5 million umbrellas annually, known for their beauty, durability and value.

Perhaps the most interesting feature of the museum is the Baltimore Clothing Company, with its rows of sewing machines recreating the floor of a garment factory. If these Singers could talk, they’d tell of a harsh world of 72-hour work weeks, child labor and sweatshop conditions. Bolts of both blue and gray fabric reveal that Baltimore’s factories sometimes sided with the green in the Civil War.

Over 17,000 workers were employed in the 340 companies of Baltimore’s clothing industry by 1940, but by 1950 an irreversible downward trend – brought on by synthetics and Japanese imports – had begun. The industry had survived rapid growth, the Depression and labor strikes, but low-cost labor from other countries had finally clobbered the needle and thread trade.

Informative panels on the walls of this room are thought provoking, and inevitably lead to the question: Where do we go from here? Perhaps the greatest benefit of the Museum of Industry is that it helps us better understand America’s industrial past as we make decisions about the future.

An antique car and wagon gallery features an Esskay meat truck and a Jacob Fussel ice cream wagon, as well as other vehicles that are uniquely Baltimore. The Appliance Repair Shop is especially appreciated by grandparents on the tour – this is a wonderful multigenerational day trip where elders can tell their grandkids about life before the Internet.

History buffs will likely linger at a wall devoted to Maryland’s Milestones – including the introduction of the first practical submarine, the development of the first transatlantic aircraft and the invention of the world’s first aluminum ski – all in Baltimore.

Everyone will enjoy the industrial art and historic pieces in the yard. “Working Point,” by David Hess, incorporates 90 tons of obsolete cast iron, steel and concrete from Baltimore’s bygone era in an inspiring tribute to the past.

Bethlehem Steel has contributed a crane that’s retired from the shipyard, having led a patriotic life of repairing the vessels damaged in WW2. The 1906 steam tug Baltimore, once used to break up ice in the harbor to allow access by commercial ships, is undergoing restoration here. And the partially submerged hull of the Gov. R.M. McLane of Oyster Wars fame rests where she sank, easily viewed from a nearby dock.

The waterfront provides an interesting spot to ponder the day – where the past meets the present, under the Domino Sugar sign. Overlooking the Inner Harbor’s unique blend of gritty reality and upscale renovation, you get the feeling that it’s true what they say.

“Ain’t no better place than Bal’more.”

When you go …

• The Baltimore Museum of Industry is open 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., Tuesday – Sunday.
• Admission is $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $6 for students and children.
• The docent-guided museum tour is free and highly recommended.
• Audio tours are available for iPod at no additional charge.
• Plenty of free parking is available in the museum’s lot.
• Scouting and family programs are offered; call (410) 427-4808 to schedule.
• The Farmers Market opens May 21 and will be held every Saturday from 9 a.m. – 1 p.m.
• Special events such as July 4^th fireworks, a haunted factory tour and wine and beer tastings are held throughout the year. For a complete list visit www.bmi.org.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

Dharma near DC – a Tibetan Buddhist Temple

Destination: Kunzang Palyul Choling in Poolesville, Maryland

Every once in a while, it soothes the soul to step back and take a look at the larger picture, and that’s why a visit to the nearby Tibetan Buddhist temple makes a most pleasant day trip.

Here you can escape the cares of everyday life – if just for a day – by hiking trails through Peace Park and appreciating the stupas, enjoying the beauty of dozens of parrots and macaws in the Garuda Sanctuary, and witnessing a temple that looks like it’s from the other side of the world.

First of all, know that everyone is welcome at Kunzang Palyul Choling’s 72-acre campus – one of the largest communities of ordained practitioners of Buddhism in the United States. Buddhism is not a religion of conversion, and KPC is a spiritual haven for everyone.

While many of the rituals and adornments you see here may be new to you, there’s a certain feeling of comfort and familiarity that starts when you pull into the parking lot amid bumper stickers that encourage you to “Visualize Whirled Peas,” “Practice Random Kindness,” and “Free Tibet.”

The feeling continues when you step up to the door of the roomy colonial house in rural Montgomery County. But as you open it, you discover a whole ‘nother world inside. A peaceful, welcoming, orderly world. The setting is befitting of this Buddhism that bridges the ancient wisdom of Tibet with the contemporary mind of the West.

The KPC temple was founded by Jetsunma Ahkon Lhama – nee Alice Zeoli of Brooklyn, NY – the first Western woman to be recognized as Tulka, or reincarnate Lama and lineage holder, in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition. Jetsunma is an honorific title associated with the female Buddha, Tara – the merciful mother who nurtures, protects and cares for all living beings with boundless compassion.

We’d heard about the temple many times, so one beautiful spring day we stopped by to visit and Ani – that means nun – welcomed us. She kindly advised us to “remove our shoes as a sign of respect, and, of course, to keep the carpets clean.” I liked Ani right away, since the same rule applies in my own home.

The Dharma Room is the temple’s educational center. Decorated with richly colored tonkas — traditional paintings on silk – and filled with alters and offerings to the deities, sacred texts, a large sand mandala and two elaborate teaching thrones, the visual impact is dramatic. My preconceived notions of monastic Zen-like simplicity were quickly dashed.

The room is home to an enormous collection of crystals, which represent the natural mind with no distractions. The crystals are another example of East-meets-West in this place that seeks to inspire people to improve the world and bring an end to the suffering of all sentient beings.

Nowhere is this mission more evident than in the Prayer Room, where a 24-hour prayer vigil for world peace started in 1985 and has continued unbroken until this day. The vigil has become known as the “heartbeat of the temple” and will continue until there is no longer a need. Prayer requests may be made in the book outside the door.

On the grounds of the temple, visitors may see the nearby Enlightenment Stupa. Stupas are one of the oldest forms of sacred architecture, dating back to the time of Buddha – 2,600 years ago. They are built to avert war, end famine and promote general well-being. Visiting the stupas is believed to bring spiritual comfort and inspiration.

Visitors are invited to use the Enlightenment Stupa by walking clockwise around it while reciting wishing prayers or mantras.

An additional 29 stupas are found across River Road, in the serene, wooded setting of Peace Park. Meditation gardens are located at the four points of the compass and in the middle of the park, where the 35-foot golden Migyar Dorje Stupa – dedicated to spiritual and physical well being – is located. This stupa contains relics of the 17th century teacher of the founders of the Palyul Lineage.

Peace Park welcomes everyone; it’s considered sacred land that’s dedicated to the benefit of all beings. The park is open from dawn to dusk, offering a great place to relax and reflect, as well as to picnic and walk your leashed dog. Pets, in fact, have a special place at KPC.

Two animal rescue organizations — Tara’s Babies Animal Welfare and the Garuda Aviary – were founded under the guidance of Jetsunma. Tara’s Babies is a dog and cat rescue organization that participates in the no-kill movement, and the Garuda Aviary provides sanctuary for abandoned, abused and neglected large birds such as parrots and macaws.

Located next to the temple, the aviary –open at various times throughout the week and usually on Saturday afternoons from 1-7 p.m. – will give you a new understanding of the plight of our misunderstood feathered friends.

Most people purchase parrots for beauty and entertainment, usually with the best of intentions. But the constant screeching, chattering and chewing soon grows old, leading 1.2 million birds to be abandoned annually or to suffer from neglect or abuse. It’s rare for a parrot to stay with the same owner throughout its entire lifetime – since these large birds can live for 80 years or longer.

Parrots are passed from home to home, as their owners deal with the stuff of life – divorces, relocations, births, deaths – taking a toll on the emotional well-being of the birds. The Garuda Aviary provides a life-long sanctuary for those who reside here, offering food, stimulation and a loving environment.

Visitors may view the birds from outside a large aviary, and learn about the unfortunate course of events that brought them here. And while the flock is gorgeous, their story is tragic.

Educating the public is one of the many goals of the Garuda Aviary. You can help them by making a donation, sponsoring a bird or volunteering your time on the Garuda Aviary webpage.

The Mani Jewel Gift Shop sells incense, wind chimes, meditation cushions and other items. Books on Buddhism-related topics, as well as teachings by Jetsunma and other Buddhist masters, are also available. Bring a little feng shui home with you!

Here in the DC area, we are pretty good at juggling five balls and a plate in the air at the same time … with one hand tied behind our backs. Most of us are rabid overachievers, and we kind of like it that way. But a day at Kunzang Palyul Choling is a day to enjoy the unexpected. And that peaceful, easy feeling lingers all the way home.

When you go …

• Sundays are devoted to welcoming visitors, and someone is usually available to answer questions.
• Individual or group tours may be arranged at www.kpc@tara.org.
• Meditation classes and dharma teaching are open to the public, with details and times on the Sunday Schedule.
• Sunday Service is at 11 a.m. and includes a food ceremony in which all are welcome to participate.
• There is no dress code, but visitors should not wear clothing that is unreasonably revealing. Comfortable clothing is recommended.
• Shoes must be removed before entering the Prayer Room or the Teaching Room.
• The Mani Jewel Gift Store is open Monday to Friday from 2-6 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from noon-6 p.m. The online store is at www.kpcstore.org.
• For your safety, please sign in at the temple before hiking in Peace Park.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean.  All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean.  All rights reserved.

Baseball, the Babe and Beer

Destination: Camden Yards and the Heavy Seas Brewery in Baltimore

If you’re in town to see the Orioles play ball at Camden Yards, Charm City is one hometown host that makes it easy to turn your visit into a weekend to remember. Several side trips illustrate the local history of our national pastime, and a stop at the Heavy Seas Brewery will give you an opportunity to toast to its good health.

Learn about Baltimore’s Love Affair with Sports

The Sports Legends Museum at Camden Yards is a remarkable day trip destination from several perspectives.

Housed in the beautifully restored Camden Station – once the grand terminus and headquarters of the B&O Railroad and now one of just a few surviving metropolitan railroad stations in the United States – the building, itself, is a fine historic artifact.

The lobby retains its 19^th century look and feel, and the recommended tour begins by strolling through a recreated B&O passenger car – complete with moving scenery of the surrounding countryside and lively commentary by notable passengers.

Baltimore Sun sports writer Bob Maisel shares his thoughts on traveling with the teams his town loves, setting the tone for the rest of the museum.

Over a dozen exhibition galleries follow, bringing to life the history of the Orioles and featuring hometown favorites Babe Ruth and Cal Ripkin, Jr. The Colts and their pride-and-joy Johnny Unitas are also profiled, as well as and those relative newcomers, the Baltimore Ravens.

College, minor league baseball, amateur baseball and other sports are by no means ignored. The Maryland Athletic Hall of Fame shares the stories of over 200 Maryland athletes in baseball, football, swimming, tennis and other sports.

Camden Station is steeped in history, as the site of the first bloodshed of the Civil War. On the steps just outside, Massachusetts volunteers clashed with angry protestors as troops marched to Camden Yards. Riots, Railroads and the Coming of Mr. Lincoln will be on exhibit until the end of 2011, examining the Pratt Street Riot, President Lincoln’s four trips through Camden Station, and the role that the B&O played in the War Between the States.

Celebrate the Babe

Want to know more about Baltimore’s favorite Bambino? Follow the 60 baseballs painted on the sidewalk starting in front of the Babe Ruth statue at Camden Yards to visit his birthplace and home.

The Babe Ruth Birthplace and Museum – at 216 Emory Street in what was once the gritty, blue-collar corner of Baltimore called Pigtown – celebrates one of the most revered athletes of all times: George Herman” Babe” Ruth.

Fans flock to the tidy brick rowhouse, considering it hallowed ground and imagining an eager young boy playing ball out front. But Babe’s early years were less than idyllic – his parents ran a tavern, sold lightning rods and had little time for their kids.

At the age of seven, Babe was sent to St. Mary’s – a reform school for ruffians and orphans – where he got a good dose of discipline and learned about the industrial arts. He also played quite a bit of baseball.

Babe got his start with the Orioles in 1914, but was sold to the Boston Red Sox after a few short months. In 1919 he was again sold, this time to the New York Yankees, and the legendary “curse of the Bambino” began.

The museum proudly displays the extremely rare 1914 Baltimore Orioles rookie card of the man who would become “the Sultan of Swing,” as well as the series of molded noses that transformed Stephen Lang into Babe Ruth for a 1991 film. But perhaps the most touching display case contains Babe’s shirt, bat, mitt and hymnal from St. Mary’s.

Hours:
From April – September, open daily from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. (7 p.m. on game days).
From October – March, open 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. on Tuesday – Sunday.
Both museums are closed on New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas.

Admission:
Combo ticket is $12 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for children 3 – 12.

Parking:
Arrive early in the day and grab an on-street, metered spot near Camden Station.
Garage parking is available Downtown and near the Inner Harbor.

Talk (and Drink) Like a Pirate

If you’d like a little beer with your baseball, hop in the car … no pun intended … and take a tour of the Clipper City Brewing Company, maker of Heavy Seas Beer. It’s only 10 minutes away and there’s plenty of free parking.

Every day is Talk like a Pirate Day at Heavy Seas, although you will have to sign up ahead of time for one of their popular Saturday tours. And nabbing a spot with founder and managing partner Hugh Sisson is especially entertaining.

Hugh starts the visit with a rousing prayer for the successful union of hops, malt, water and yeast. I was not surprised when I later learned that he is, in fact, a failed actor – Hollywood’s loss is definitely Baltimore’s gain.

On this tour you’ll walk amid a dozen or so towering tanks and their tendrils of hoses. Take in the sweet-sour aroma of fermenting beer, hear the occasional gurgle, smell the hops you’ve crushed in your hands and taste the roasty toasty barley.

Hugh hops up on his brewhouse to explain the science of malting and the series of fortunate events that follows. He speaks of starches and molecular bonding, but all you really need to know is that they’re making magic here.

Whether you are a hop head, a malt lover or somewhere in between, you will appreciate the dedication of the Heavy Seas mission of “combining big flavor profiles with a sense of balance and finesse.” These aren’t just pretty words – they’re really doing it.

A tour of the works costs $5, and that includes a souvenir pint glass and five tokens to exchange for beer tastings. Arrive early or stay after the tour to cash them in and try some of the Heavy Seas fleet of extremely quaffable beers – Small Craft Uber Pils, Peg Leg Imperial Stout, Loose Cannon IPA or whatever’s on tap.

Heavy Seas hosts special events all year long. Upcoming: a Beer and Bacon Fest in September and a Chili and Cheese Fest in November.

Argh! We’ll be there!

Story copyright 2011 Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011 Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.