Virginia

Wine Among the Ruins: Barboursville Vineyards

Day Trip Destination: Orange County, Virginia

If Thomas Jefferson were alive today, he would, no doubt, be pleased. Not necessarily with the state of the union, but certainly with the state of its wine industry.

A trip to Barboursville Vineyards gives the visitor a look at our third president’s dream come true – a thriving wine industry on American soil. Here one of Italy’s most respected wine-making families is producing Virginia’s most awarded wines, in the shadow of the ruins of one of Jefferson’s finest architectural feats.

Jefferson loved the fruit of the vine – during his eight years in the White House, he spent approximately $16,500 on the wine he uncorked to entertain guests and enlighten their palates. So it’s not surprising that Virginia’s original Renaissance man would want to give winemaking a try for himself.

Over a period of about 50 years, Jefferson doggedly pursued the cultivation of Vitis vinfera, the classic European grape, in 25,000 square feet of vineyards at Monticello. He was convinced that “ We could in the United States, make as great a variety of wine as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds but doubtless as good.”

Despite Jefferson’s passion, he was not known to have produced a single glass of wine at his estate in Charlottesville. His nemesis – small, but at that time unstoppable –was Phylloxera vastatrix, a species of aphid with an affinity for the roots of European vines.

Native American vines were naturally resistant to the pest, but produced wines of inferior quality. Jefferson kept alive the hope of a fine wine for the young republic, and he chronicled his attempts for future viticulturists in the appellation of Virginia.

In addition to having been a Founding Father, a prolific writer and a devoted wine enthusiast, Jefferson was also an accomplished architect. The house he designed in the early 19^th century for his good friend and then-governor of Virginia, James Barbour, was so spectacular that it came to be known as “the finest residence in Orange County.”

Construction of the masterpiece began in 1814 and continued for eight years, culminating in a work that incorporated Jefferson’s trademark elements – most notably the octagonal great room. Barbour died in 1842, and the family continued to live there until fire destroyed the mansion on Christmas Day in 1884.

Meanwhile, things had started to look up for the Virginia wine industry. The war on bugs was won in 1877, with the grafting of European vines onto American rootstocks to protect Vitis vinfera from its mortal enemy.

About a century later the Zonin family, owners of the largest privately held wine company in Italy, made the fateful decision to expand to America – and they chose to plant roots on the former Barbour estate. Just 20 miles north of Monticello and in the same valley, Barboursville Vineyards is now realizing Jefferson’s dream.

Winemaker Luca Pashina has guided this estate and had a profound impact on the leadership of Virginia viticulture for twenty years, and the results of his progressive approach and creative outlook can be sampled in one of the most attractive tasting rooms in Virginia.

The setting resembles an Italian farmhouse with its stucco interior walls, exposed beam ceiling and ceramic tile floor. Compelling views of the surrounding countryside abound, and a roaring fire sets a comfy scene. This is a very civilized was to spend the day.

Tastings include over 15 wines for $5, with your glass as a take-away souvenir. The bar is separated into three distinct stations – white, red and dessert wines – with a guru for each. This approach worked perfectly on a recent visit in February, but traffic has been known to flow less smoothly in the busier months. It’s best to arrive early.

The Gift Shop is adjacent to the Tasting Room and sells accessories for the oenophile, as well as fine books on the topic. A tour of the winery includes the history of Barboursville and a visit to its tastefully designed museum.

Exhibits give a rare opportunity to commune with Thomas Jefferson and trace the path of his thought process as he heeded the words of classic poet Virgil on working with the earth. The sketches of Jefferson’s orchard plans for Monticello are almost artistic.

In the Barrel Room, row upon row of aging Octagon wine surrounds you. This is Barboursville’s flagship wine, a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that is worth the trip in itself.

Because Italians love their ruins, the Zonins decided not to restore the Barbour mansion but instead to stabilize it, so that it would not deteriorate any further. The scenic ruins are now on the National Register of Historic Places and are open to the public until 5:30 p.m. daily. A self-guided tour of all that remains is the perfect finish to the day.

When you go:

• Purchase a tasting of over 15 wines for $5 at the table to your right as you enter.
• Return on another day and taste for $3 if you bring the glass back with you.
• Barboursville Vineyards Winery is open Monday-Saturday from 10 a.m.-5 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Tours are offered from noon to 4 p.m. The ruins are open to the public until 5:30 p.m.
• Picnic tables on a ridge to the left as you leave the property offer a great spot for lunch with a view.
• Palladio Restaurant, overlooking the vineyards, offers classic Northern Italian cuisine. Reservations are required for dinner.
• The 1804 Inn at Barboursville Vineyards provides serene and elegant lodging, both daily and weekly.

For additional information about the wines of Virginia, visit Dezel Quillan’s My Vine Spot.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

A Beery Good Trip to Loudoun’s Wine Country – Corcoran Brewing Company

Destination: Waterford, Virginia

Cruise through the rolling countryside west of Washington D.C., and you’ll find a patch of hops among the vineyards. The Corcoran family welcomes you to a Virginia first.

Great Beer with a LoCo Attitude
Loudoun County is home to over 25 wineries that produce some mighty fine fruit of the vine. In fact, looking at the 200-or-so wineries in the Commonwealth of Virginia, you might think we’re in quite a vinocentric state. But Jim Corcoran would tell you otherwise.

Corcoran takes his role as CTO – Chief Tasting Officer – of his new Corcoran Brewing Company seriously, at times drinking as much as a keg of beer a week. It’s all in the interest of science, of course …

Dozens of Virginia breweries are dedicated to handcrafting microbrews, but his is the first to be located at a winery. And a very good one, at that.

Jim’s wife Lori has long been synonymous with the local wine industry, producing award winners using traditional methods at Corcoran Vineyards. And as passionate as she is about wine, he is about beer.

Perplexed by the lack of breweries in Loudoun County and yearning to be able to get a good beer close to home, Corcoran hired brewmaster Kevin Bills and opened Corcoran Brewing Company on July 30 – within stumbling distance of the vineyards.

Bills and Corcoran tapped the support of a large community of brewers, so their fledgling effort is amazingly developed. The diminutive brewery is now open to the public, and you can taste for yourself.

For a nominal fee, you’ll sample six beers. Currently on tap are Wheatland, P’ville Pale, Catoctin Ale, LoCo IPA, Corky’s Irish Red and Slainte Stout, and offerings will change with the seasons. All are well-balanced and flavorful, in the tradition of Hugh Sisson’s Heavy Sea’s Brewery in Baltimore.

You can have a growler filled with your favorite brew to take home, but at this point in time beer is not available by the glass. There’s so much excitement in the air that it doesn’t seem to matter.

If you’re lucky, you’ll be treated to the wit and wisdom of Jim Corcoran – it’s his clubhouse, after all. Corcoran is a likeable, high-energy guy who actively promotes agritourism as Chair of the Virginia Wine Council. Now that he’s turned his attention to beer, he’s stunned by the public’s immediate reaction.

After just two Saturdays in business, Corcoran has already ordered more equipment to keep up with demand – he’s been running the taps dry every week. Stop by and experience this nanobrewery soon, before it evolves into a full-fledged microbrewery.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch … the log-lined tasting room of Corcoran Vineyards is serving wines that are big on flavor: Traminette, , Chambourcin, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, to name a few. And Corcoran is one of the few wineries making apple wine – a crisp white that’s perfect for a warm summer day. You can taste inside and then grab a glass of your favorite to enjoy along with lunch and the beauty that surrounds.

Brian Started the Fire
Monk’s BBQ sets up outside the winery every weekend, smoking up a storm of ribs, pulled pork, chicken, brisket and chorizo laced with handcrafted sauces that incorporate Corcoran products.

Brian Jenkins, a.k.a. Monk, has been working on his secret recipes for ten years now, and the effort shows in the sweet and tangy results. Monk and his wife Kirsten will be at the winery on Saturdays and Sundays through football season, and after you visit them you’ll wish they could quit their day jobs and go whole hog.

The five-meat platter is a big seller, and the ribs go fast so be sure to stop by early in the day if you’re planning on ordering them. Sides include vinegar-based slaw and smoked red onion beans that get rave reviews.

A handful of picnic tables are scattered around a duckweed-covered pond, next to the vineyards – a most agreeable place to sip fine wine, savor Monk’s ‘Q, and ponder the future of microbrewing in wine country.

When you go …

• Corcoran Brewing Company is open Saturdays only from noon to 5 p.m.
• Corcoran Vineyards is open on Saturday and Sunday from noon to 5 p.m.
• Corcoran Brewing Company, Corcoran Vineyards and Monk’s BBQ accept credit cards.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.