Abraham Lincoln observed that, “… folks who have no vices have very few virtues.” So in the interest of improving my character, I headed out to historic Leesburg and wild and wonderful West Virginia last weekend with some of my favorite people.

Leesburg Cigar and Pipe Shop
The knowledgeable staff at Leesburg Cigar and Pipe hooks customers up with just the right smoke, whether you’re a newbie or a chimney. This boutique tobacconist offers a huge selection of cigars and cigarillos as well as pipes, tobacco, imported cigarettes and accessories. The walk-in humidor is one of the largest in the area, keeping cigars fresh and hydrated.

The shop is comfortably situated in an old station master’s house and appointed with rich leather seating and a big screen plasma TV. Manly yes, but I like it, too.

The tobacconist at Leesburg Cigar and Pipe at Market Square will set you up with just the right smoke for a day at the races. Photo by Paul Jean

The Bloomery Plantation Distillery
Limoncello? In West Virginia? Everything about the Bloomery Plantation Distillery is unexpected, from the diminutive 1840s log cabin distillery to the handcrafted fruit cordials it produces. And if the word cordial conjures memories of grandma’s after dinner drinks, think again.  Unless grandma was nana and she hailed from the old country.

The Bloomery Plantation Distillery sells handcrafted cellos from their restored log cabin off Charles Town Road near the Shenandoah River. Photo by Paul Jean

When Linda Losey and partner Tom Kiefer traveled to Italy for the canonization of his Great-great Aunt Mary MacKillop – now known as Saint Mary of the Cross – they returned with a love for limoncello that the local liqueur stores just couldn’t quench. In fact, they didn’t find a single drop that lived up to its Italian counterpart. So they made their own. And it was very good.

The next logical step was to buy a ramshackle log cabin and 12 acres of land via Craig’s list. Then Linda hired Rob Losey – her ex-husband – to cultivate 2,000 Caroline raspberry plants. She bought a greenhouse, hauled it back to the farm, filled said greenhouse with 40 Santa Theresa lemon trees and hung a shingle out by the road.

Of course; because that’s what I do when I’m craving a drink …

Rita and Linda pour samples for guests as Linda waxes poetic about her love for limoncello. Photo by Paul Jean

No matter how logical it all sounds, it was absolutely brilliant. And so are the flavors you’ll sample while gathered near a fireplace at the restored cabin’s tasting bar.  Linda crafts her cellos to capture the essence of each flavor in a way that’s pure, clear and bright but never bitter, using organic fruit and zesting the lemons by hand to avoid the nasty pith.

An old root cellar is one of several outbuildings on a tour of the Bloomery Plantation Distillery’s historic property. Photo by Paul Jean

She gives tours of the grounds, pointing out the original structure – one of only two slave quarters remaining in Jefferson County – with siding that was salvaged from an old C&O Canal boat to expand the living quarters. Linda welcomes you into her greenhouse, where she tends trees that will produce future batches of heavenly hooch.

Rob mans the bar – doling out samples of the fruits of their labor, sharing recipes and exercising a quick wit alongside Rita, his significant other. Tom’s often there, too, and the group looks like one big happy family. Their motto might well be: All you need is cello.

Tours and tastings are free, with a menu that includes the Limoncello that started it all, as well as Raspberry Limoncello, Cremma Lemma (aka Moonshine Milkshake), Lemon Ice, and Dark Chocolate Raspberry Cello. All are available to purchase by the bottle for consumption at home. Live music – folk rock, reggae, blues and soul – is enjoyed with coffee from 6 to 8 p.m.

Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races
Entering Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races is, for the uninitiated, a bit like falling down the rabbit hole. Plastic palm trees and counterfeit cacti fringe rows upon rows of one armed bandits – over 3,500 video slot machines in all – with names like Vegas Shindig, Super Fireball Frenzy and Unicorn Dreaming.

My tip: Stay away from themes that ooze cuteness – I lost a fair share of money on Dog Days just trying to see the Goldendoodle prance when I scored three in a row. Gambling is an emotional sport and, in retrospect, I may have been better off with the homage to John Wayne. But I can’t prove it. Win, lose or draw, you’ll be entertained by the new and improved venue.

In 1997 Penn National Gaming bet on a comeback for Charles Town Races, purchasing the facility and beginning a $175-million upgrade of the facility. In 2010 table games – including poker, blackjack, mini-baccarat and roulette – made their debut, and today the facility features simulcast racing, numerous dining options and two huge parking garages. The ¾ -mile race track draws some of the East Coast’s best trainers, horses and jockeys.

Book a table in the Skyline Terrace for dinner with an expansive view of the race track. The restaurant offers a full menu and, on Friday and Saturday nights, a prime rib and seafood buffet that reaches from here to there and back again for $25.95.

Bets may be placed with tellers next to the Poker Room on the same level, but for the ultimate experience call ahead and reserve a big table with its own betting machine. Upon arrival, set up an account and load up a debit card with the evening’s mad money for one-swipe gambling.

And they’re off! Enjoy the races from the comfort of your dinner table in the Skyline Terrace. Photo courtesy of Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races.

The dining room is designated nonsmoking, but you can light up down on the apron of the track, where the action is. You may even pick up a few hot tips on upcoming races from the regulars.

Hand-rolled cigars, hooch and horse racing — it’s the perfect trifecta of vices.  Whether you’re truly a badass or merely a wannabe, I’m willing to wager this is a day trip you’ll remember – and want to repeat – as a chaser to thrown-over New Year’s resolutions yet-to-come.

When you go:

• Leesburg Cigar and Pipe is located in Market Station next to Tuscarora Mill.
• Hours:  Monday – Saturday from 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. and Sunday from 11 a.m. – 5 p.m.
• The Bloomery is located at 16357 Charles Town Road in Charles Town, W.Va.
• Hours: Tastings and tours on Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
• Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races is 15 minutes from the Bloomery.
• Hours: Casino open 24/7. Post time varies and is now Tuesday – Saturday 7:15 p.m.

Hand-rolled cigars, hooch and horse racing — it’s the perfect trifecta of vices. Race photo courtesy of Hollywood Casino at Charles Town Races

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
All photos copyright 2012, Paul N. Jean except as noted. All rights reserved.

The History of Black History Month
The celebration of Black History Month began in 1926, through the efforts of historian and educator Dr. Carter G. Woodson.  Recognizing that Black Americans were largely absent from history books, he originally chose the second week of the second month as Negro History Week to call the nation’s attention to the contributions made by people of color throughout American history.

Why February?  Frederick Douglass and Abraham Lincoln’s birthdays share that page of the calendar, and both men significantly influenced the country’s Black American population.  A variety of celebrations are taking place across the nation, with the capital city hosting some that are particularly meaningful.

If you’d like to enjoy quiet reflection, visit the new Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial in West Potomac Park. The memorial’s address – 1964 Independence Avenue – is a reference to the Civil Rights Act of 1964 in which King played a major role.

A visit to the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial is intended to be personally transformative for guests. All photos by Paul Jean

This is the first memorial on the Mall dedicated to an activist for civil rights and peace, rather than to a president or war hero. The four acre site on the northwest corner of the Tidal Basin will soon be fringed with the blossoms of cherry trees – a gift from Japan that symbolizes, appropriately, peace.

Peace and possibility. That is what I thought about when I visited last week. The stunning sculpture honors King’s contributions to world peace through non-violent social change, as well as his optimism for a better future – one of dignity, sensitivity and mutual respect. Dr. King’s message challenges us to recognize that America’s true strength lies in its diversity of talents.

It appears that a great monolithic struggle has taken place at the entry portal, resulting in the “stone of hope” from which King’s likeness has been carved.

A “Stone of Hope”
“With this faith, we will be able to hew out of the mountain of despair a stone of hope.”

Martin Luther King, 1963

On a still, gray day in February I visited the MLK Memorial, along with dozens of people of varying age, race and country of origin. I thought of the diverse lives surrounding me, taking note of the peaceful faces of my fellow sightseers. Even those on a whirlwind tour of the Mall slowed down in MLK’s presence to consider the moment in time.

Entry to the plaza is made through a dramatic portal that appears to have resulted when a monolithic slice was thrust from the center of its great boulder.  And from that slice, the image of King is beautifully carved – roughly hewn along the bottom, and finely sculpted at the top.

The sculpture of Dr. King faces the Jefferson Memorial and appears to be looking over the Tidal Basin and toward it.

The boulder is the figurative “mountain of despair” that King referred to in his famous 1963 “I Have a Dream” speech, representing the challenges we all must work through in our lives. The feeling of optimism in the open plaza is palpable, where the likeness of King – carved in the “stone of hope” monolith – resides.

As I gazed up at King – looking out over the Tidal Basin and into the future – I thought of how far we’ve come as a society and how much of the journey still remains. What would MLK think?

The Wall of Inscription surrounds the plaza and bears fourteen of King’s most notable quotes reflecting his enduring principles of justice, democracy, hope and love for all, regardless of race, color creed, gender, ethnicity or sexual orientation. Walking along the granite perimeter and taking time for introspection is a personal celebration of King’s life and his message.

The MLK Memorial is the newest on the Mall, managed by the National Parks Service. Park rangers are on hand to answer questions, encouraging visitors to “Experience your America.” Their enthusiasm for the land we call home meshes with King’s optimism for its people, making a visit here an uplifting and life-affirming experience.

When you go …

• Parking is free along Ohio Ave. between the Lincoln and Thomas Jefferson Memorials.
• Private, paid parking garages are found north of the Mall.
• The nearest Metro stop is Smithsonian.

The Inscription Wall captures King’s legacy, with 14 of his most notable quotes engraved on a 450-foot granite wall.

Alexandria’s cobblestone streets were once George Washington’s stomping ground. Visit Old Town this month, walk in Washington’s footsteps and learn more about the life of our first president when he went off the plantation.

A huge bronze statue of George Washington greets visitors to the Masonic Memorial. All photos by Paul Jean

The George Washington Masonic Memorial

First get to know George Washington from a different perspective by touring the memorial built in his honor by a grateful brotherhood of Freemasons. This is a rare opportunity to look inside an organization that’s traditionally been cloaked in secrecy, and to understand the reverence it holds for Brother Washington.

The George Washington Masonic Memorial offers a bird’s eye view of Alexandria and beyond.

Whether you believe the Freemasons are a benign organization akin to the Kiwanis or an ancient order hell-bent on world domination, you will enjoy a rare peek behind the scenes at the George Washington Masonic Memorial (101 Callahan Drive).

Inspired by the Lighthouse of Alexandria in Egypt, the memorial honors Washington as a guiding light for his country and fraternal organization. Architecture combines Greek and Roman styles in a structure made of, not surprisingly, stone. Exhibits introduce Washington as a Freemason and Charter Master of Alexandria-Washington Masonic Lodge #22.

Visitors enter on the main level and are welcome to wander there and on the lower level for free. Five dollars gains access to the tower and observatory, with a tour lead by a Freemason who will answer questions – at least most of them – and bring you to the museum and several other rooms sponsored by Masonic chapters.

The ride up in the lush, wood-paneled elevator is quick and cozy, and every trip seems to include at least one visitor who knows his Dan Brown inside-out.

The museum on the fourth floor enlightens visitors about the many hats that Washington wore: soldier, farmer, president and Freemason. Artifacts include his field trunk from the Revolutionary War, tools from the cornerstone ceremony at the US Capitol Building, a few strands of his hair and a transcript of his will as it appeared in the local newspaper.

A simulation of the Ark of the Covenant, an important symbol to both Freemasonry and mankind, is a highlight of the tour.

You’ll visit rooms that feel more like chambers, the first of which is sponsored by the Royal Arch Chapter. Borrowing heavily from Egyptian and Hebrew cultures, décor of biblical inspiration enhances the walls. A beautiful simulation of the Ark of the Covenant takes center stage. Think Indiana Jones.

The Knights Templar Room is Medieval French Gothic and was dedicated in 1957 by Vice-President Richard Nixon. It features four enormous stained glass windows – the most significant of which depicts the three degrees of Freemasonry – as well as two suits of armor and the sword of a Crusader.

Tucked away on the ninth floor is a reconstruction of the interior of the temple of King Solomon – including throne, large copper bowl, oil lamp holders and a tree of life – sponsored by the Tall Cedars of Lebanon, a chapter best known for its fund raising efforts in the fight against Muscular Dystrophy.

The ninth floor grants access to the observation deck, which circles the top of the tower and boasts a 360-degree view – 400 feet above sea level. The Capitol Building, Washington Monument, National Harbor and other points of interest are easy spotted, and Alexandria is laid out below like a model railroad village.

One chamber is dedicated to the order of the Knights Templar and captures the mystery and romance of the Middle Ages.

Back on the main level a colossal bronze statue of George Washington in full Masonic regalia – all 17 feet and seven tons of him – graces the entry hall, and murals on each side depict important events in his life as a Mason.

When you go…

• The tour of the tower and observation deck is $5 (free for kids 12 and under).
• The building is handicapped-accessible from the parking lot on the lower level.
• Parking is free, in the lot off Callahan Drive.
• Check www.gwmemorial.org for hours, tour times and details.

George Washington’s chamber clock, tucked in a room behind the gift shop, marks the time of his death.

George Washington’s Alexandria
After you’ve met Washington the Freemason, consider getting to know the father of our country as a man about town. The past is woven with the present here, making for one stylishly entertaining history lesson.

Drive down King Street to the Ramsay House Visitors Center (221 King Street) for maps, brochures and a certificate for free on-street parking, as well as a free restaurant book containing special discounts. Buy Alexandria’s Key to the City – containing coupons for admission to most of the following attractions – for just $9.

The Carlyle House Historic Park (121 N. Fairfax Street) is the next stop. As a prosperous and influential founder of this city, John Carlyle hosted his good friends, George and Martha Washington, on numerous occasions in his elegant home. It has been restored to show how Carlyle lived and entertained, giving us a slice of aristocratic life.

The Carlyle table appears as it would during holidays, ready to greet guests.

Standing in the middle of rooms that George Washington did – and not behind a Plexiglas barrier – helps visitors feel especially connected to the past. Don’t expect to see any ghosts, though. A dead cat has been entombed behind one of the walls to ward off paranormal activity.

The Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Shop (105-107 S. Fairfax Street) is now a museum, but from 1792-1933 it was a family-owned pharmacy that cured whatever ailed local residents. Prominent customers included Nelly Custis, Robert E. Lee and Martha Washington, whose request for castor oil is proudly displayed in one of the exhibits.

Visible among the rows of medicines and elixirs are opium and cannabis, as well as lavender for depression and powdered pumpkin seeds for tapeworm. Bottles of dragons blood and snake root might make you think you’ve wandered into Diagon Alley, but these are the names of products in the company’s line of paints and varnishes.

The Stabler-Leadbeater Apothecary Museum looks as if the pharmacist just stepped out for a quick cup of tea.

This apothecary shop was one of the oldest continuously functioning pharmacies in the country when it closed in the 1930s. The building was sold with all of the items intact so it’s a fascinating time capsule, whether you’re into pharmaceutical history or not.

Gadsby’s Tavern (138 N. Royal Street) consists of two buildings – a tavern and an inn – and George Washington really did sleep here. Gadsby’s was the center of social, political and business life in 18th century Alexandria. For two consecutive years, George and Martha attended the annual Birthnight Ball held in his honor at the tavern.

In Colonial days, Gadsby’s Tavern hosted George and Martha Washington, today you might find re-enactors such as these British soliders sharing your dining room.

Visitors can tour the historic rooms and dine in the fine restaurant, which serves Washington’s favorite meal – glazed breast of duck with scalloped potatoes – and other colonial favorites. Gadsby’s was Washington’s dine-in and take-out joint, so much so that he didn’t include a kitchen in the design of his Alexandria townhome.

Visit websites for hours and admission prices. Most historic attractions close at 4 p.m.

Party Like It’s 1799

• 10-K Race and 2-K Fun Run – Feb. 18, 8:00 a.m. Fee, registration required.
• Birthnight Banquet/Ball, Gadsby’s Tavern – Feb. 18, 5:30 p.m. Fee, registration required.
• Revolutionary War Re-enactment, Fort Ward Park – Feb. 19, 10 a.m. – 3 p.m. Free.
• George Washington’s Birthday Parade – Feb. 20, 1 – 3 p.m. Free.
• Admission to Mount Vernon and other Alexandria attractions – Feb. 20. Free.

Day Tripping 101: You don’t have to drive for hours to have fun, and you really should talk to strangers whenever the opportunity arises. A little wine can make that happen.

Loudoun County is home to 30 of Virginia’s 191 wineries, and most provide a pleasant way to enjoy the countryside and escape the daily grind, if just for an afternoon. And since each winery reflects the personality, philosophy and taste buds of its owners, there’s something for everyone.

This trip is a hop, skip and jump through the vineyards, to some of the warmest, friendliest spots you’ll find just outside our nation’s capital.

The sun slips down under the horizon near the beautifully restored barn at Sunset Hills Vineyard. All photos by Paul Jean

The first stop is Sunset Hills Vineyard (38295 Fremont Overlook Lane, Purcellville), perched on an idyllic 45 acres north of town. Owners Mike and Diane Canney are fond of saying they make wine out of sunshine here, with a total of 154 solar panels running their winery and winemaking operation. The warmth of the sun also fills a 140-year-old Amish barn that houses a drop-dead gorgeous tasting room and features a 35-foot, cathedral-style ceiling.

The Amish built and carved mahogany bar makes a grand showpiece, not just for its massive presence but for the wines it pours. A $7 tasting gives you the opportunity to sample at least six current releases and then buy your favorite by the glass or the bottle. Sunset Hills is known for its fun and floral Viogner, as well as its spicy, jammy Reserve Cabernet Franc.

The tasting room at Sunset Hills is one of the largest around -- a happening place during most weekend afternoons.

Live music is featured most weekends – usually of the casual, acoustic variety – and folks mix and mingle freely. It would be very easy to settle in – sipping wine, munching on wood-smoked cheddar and getting to know your fellow oenophiles. But don’t, because the next stop involves some serious ‘Q.

B’zBBQ Company at Paeonian Grocery and Gourmet puts up BBQ that’s smoked low and slow, accompanied by homemade sauces.

Nearby Paeonian Grocery and Gourmet (40602-B Charles Town Pike, Paeonian Springs) is home to B’z BBQ Company, where the beef brisket smokes for a full 18 hours and the sauces are finger lickin’ good. Their award-winning Peach Habanera pairs well with the 2010 LoCo Vino at 8 Chains North, so ask for your grub to go, along with extra napkins.

The diminutive grocery store offers an impressive selection of hard-to-find beers and local wines.

The folks at our next winery graciously allow you bring food in, so long as you don’t taunt the other guests with it. For this reason, it’s recommend that you stick to one of the relatively discrete BBQ sandwiches, versus a Fred Flintstone-esque rack of ribs.

8 Chains North. What’s not to love about this spunky new kid on the block? The winery’s tasting room (38593 Daymont Lane,Waterford) is also located in a barn, but this one has been renovated and decorated to look like the comfy, eclectic living room of J. Peterman. Rich oriental rugs and accents, animal skins and tapestries make the stylish barn warm and inviting.

The tasting room at 8 Chains North is bright and airy, featuring rugs and wall hangings from far-away places.

While 8 Chains opened less than two years ago, owner and winemaker Ben Renshaw has worked in the Virginia wine industry since 1998 and studied with some of the best. As a result, the wines you’ll sample at his bar will probably knock your socks off.

Opt for the $10 tasting and try artisanal chocolates coordinated with just the perfect wine. While pairing the food of the gods with the fruit of the vine is nothing new, they take it to a whole ‘nother level when MC² Confection’s Aztec Heat meets 8 Chains North’s Furnace Mountain Red Reserve. You’ll probably want to stock up on both for the next snow day.

The piano at 8 Chains North provides a natural gathering spot, as well as the perfect photo op.

By now you’ve probably made a few more friends, and you may have even attempted to solve the problems of the world with them. It’s amazing how relative strangers will talk about everything imaginable — from encounters with angry emus to the rising cost of college tuition – while quaffing the local beverage. You may be tempted to sink into a cushy sofa and join them for the rest of the day, but don’t. Say your goodbyes, because there’s one more winery to visit.

Hunters Run Wine Tasting Barn (40325 Charles Town Pike, Hamilton) is a little bit country, a little bit rock and roll. And more than a little bit Irish. The Emerald Isle meets the Hunt in a rustic-looking barn that, until recently, was a stand-alone tasting room for the popular Corcoran Vineyards in Waterford.

The tasting room at Hunters Run is as cozy and friendly as an Irish pub.

Owner Geri Nolan, an Irish lassie, is learning the art and craft of winemaking under the tutelage of a seasoned winemaker from Cave Ridge Winery. Her $7 tasting lineup includes several selections from Cave Ridge, along with the first wines to bear the Hunters Run label – an elegant Viogner, a smooth Charbourcin and a barrel-aged Port. The latter is inspired by Geri’s dad and named Hunters Run Todds.

Riding crops, saddles and the like mingle with shamrocks and Irish sayings in a décor that’s fun and friendly. Local talent plays live music on Saturdays. Tables surround a small but mighty wood stove that cranks out the BTUs. Folks laugh together, no matter what the weather. Does it really get any better than this?

The décor at Hunters Run reflects the heritage of its owner, who was raised in a horsey, farming community in Ireland.

A day exploring wine country is all about appreciating a good glass of wine with kindred spirits. It’s a day best enjoyed with friends – the ones you already know, and the ones you’re destined to meet.

When you go …

• Hours are seasonal; consult websites for current information.
• All three wineries offer cheese, crackers and light snacks for sale.
• Policies about pets, picnics vary by winery. Call ahead for details.
• Paeonian Grocery and Gourmet starts serving ‘Q at 11 a.m. daily.
• Designate a driver or hire a limo for a safe and happy winery experience.

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2012, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

The British poet Dame Edith Sitwell declared that, “winter is the time for comfort, for good food and warmth, for the touch of a good friend’s hand and for a talk beside the fire. It is the time for home.”

A trip to Frederick can help turn your house into a place Dame Edith would happily hibernate in. Founded in 1745 by German and English settlers, the historic town has long been recognized as a go-to place for antique furnishings. The Clintons were said to stop and shop here on their way to Camp David, so you never who you might rub elbows with.

First, drive to the Frederick Visitors Center at 151 S. East St. for a bit of local history. The center is housed in a beautifully restored, circa 1899 warehouse that sets the stage for the day. It offers convenient hours, off-street parking, free maps and a brief film about attractions and upcoming events in Frederick.

Next, travel to East Street and the area known as Everedy Square and Shab Row. This cluster of restored 19^th century buildings now offers dining, entertainment and plenty of shopping, with free, untimed parking in the back. You can leave your car here and hoof it for the rest of the day.

The Loft at Antique Imports at 125 N. East St. is the starting point of our tour, with its urban chic blend of old and new. Gorgeous antiques meet DC Design Center samples, with a generous sprinkling of handmade items. This is a place for the decoratively challenged to gather great ideas, and for the savvy shopper to pick up that special accent piece and nab a bargain on high-end upholstered furniture.

The Loft at Antique Imports layers the old with the new, blending antiques with DC Design Center goodies. All photos by Paul Jean

The Little Pottery Shop at 117 N. East St. offers pottery ranging from casual to elegant, so there’s something to compliment any décor. Each piece has been made by hand, and most are functional as well as decorative. This is art you can both use and admire.

Pieces at the Little Pottery Shop are thrown and shaped by hand in a variety of styles.

A large concentration of stores selling antiques and the decorative arts can be found on Patrick Street, an easy walk to the southeast, so consult your map and head downtown.

Detour to Great Stuff by Paul at 10 N. Carroll St., where you’ll often find antiques for the home and garden put to surprising new uses. Past visits have yielded a Dutch clog doing double duty as a planter and a sugar mold stand repurposed as a candle holder. Paul’s additional 52,000-square-foot building at 257 E. 6^th Street is touted as a world in a warehouse, with unique items from China and Europe.

Back on East Patrick Street, over a dozen shops turn a few city blocks into one-stop shopping for home decorators.

Emporium Antiques at #112 is a long-time favorite, housing a maze of shops run by over 100 vendors selling everything from cut crystal to heavy furniture. Stop by for the quilts, lace, antique toys, vintage jewelry and mink coats destined to dress up your life, as well as the farm tables, deacons’ benches and grandfather clocks that add substance.

Emporium Antiques has just about everything you’d expect at an antique store, sans the dust.

For another dose of inspiration, visit the Dream House at 102 E. Patrick St., where furnishings and accessories are artfully arranged in a way that both dazzles and empowers. If you don’t have the time or the inclination to pull it all together for yourself, they do offer a full range of design services.

The Dream House gives shoppers a fresh perspective, with furniture and textiles to tie your look together.

It’s the little things that transform a house into a home – kitchen, bar, baby and pet items, as well as frames and seasonal touches – and that’s what’s featured at Home Essentials of Frederick at 38 E. Patrick Street. Don’t miss the wall of Memory Blocks by Sid Dickens, a Vancouver-based artist who adorns individual hand-cast plaster tiles with meaningful themes of historic, romantic and religious significance.

The happy assortment at Home Essentials of Frederick turns a house into a home.

Silk and Burlap at 28 E. Patrick Street creates a world that is that is both cottage-fresh and, at the same time, sophisticated. Rustic tables, vintage glassware and new table linens are presented by two owners who have extensive experience in retail and an eye for detail. Theirs is a lifestyle shop with an ever-changing inventory, so it pays to visit often to see what’s new. Relish Décor also offers design services from this location.

Silk and Burlap’s tables are stacked high with glassware and dishes to compliment the antiques they sell.

The new kid on the block is Salvaged, just across the street at #29. The owner grew up surrounded by the scent of history and varnish, born to two Tennessee antique dealers with a decidedly entrepreneurial streak. The store offers intriguing pieces that have been acquired at auctions, estate sales and barns. Some have been refinished and restored, and many are accompanied by written stories. Decorative accessories are new and made by hand and/or in the United States whenever possible.

Salvaged emits a hip and happy vibe, with antiques of enduring style and quality.

Frederickalso has several consignment stores, such as Fabulous Finds at 24 E. Patrick St. and Heritage Antiques at 39 E. Patrick St., selling both antiques and gently used furnishings that keep the budget in check.

Heritage Antiques offers items ranging from antiques to gently used furnishings at a variety of price points.

The town features a growing number of good restaurants, many found on nearby North Market Street. But chances are you’ll be too busy to sit down and eat, and that’s where the local cupcakeries come into play.

The staff of Sweet Angelina’s Cupcakery takes its work seriously, with dreams of entering the Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars.”

Back at Everedy Square and Shab Row, you can sample the diminutive desserts of both Sweet Angela’s Cupcakery at 244 E. Church St. and angelcakes at 319 E. Church St. Each offers perennial favorites, as well as daily specials that combine fun flavors with creative flair. At just $2.50 each, you can afford to decide for yourself who wins Frederick’s cupcake wars.

When you go …

• Although some stores are open on weekdays, this trip is best made on weekends.
• Stores are open until 9 p.m. on First Saturday, with monthly themed events.
• Upcoming events:
• February 4 – Fire in Ice with ice sculptures, an ice playground, hot cocoa and toasted marshmallows.
• March 3 – Casino Night with games of chance, live music, prizes and trolley rides.

For a map and additional information, visit www.fredericktourism.org.

The cupcakes at the aptly named angelcakes are lighter than air and beautifully displayed.

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2012, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

A visit to the birthplace of Confederate General Robert E. Lee – named Stratford Hall after his ancestral home in Shropshire, England – offers a tranquil day trip along Virginia’s road less traveled.

Robert E. Lee was the last of the Lees to be born at Stratford Hall, later explaining that “Stratford … is endeared to me by many memories.” Photo by Paul Jean

Here you will learn about the five generations of Lees who lived at Stratford Hall, and of the profound impact early members had on the beginning of a new republic. The Union they helped to build proved so strong that even the bloodiest conflict in American history would not destroy it.

Founding Father and President John Adams once remarked that the Lees gave us “More men of merit than any other family,” having produced two signers of the Declaration of Independence, one governor of the Virginia Colony and a distinguished Revolutionary War commander. But it is largely for the role in history one Lee played that the name is best known today.

Robert Edward Lee came into the world in the bed chamber of the stately Southern plantation home on January 19, 1807, but he lived at the mansion for less than four years before his father, Henry “Light-Horse Harry” Lee, relocated the family to Alexandria.

The Chamber was the most private room in the house, and the infant Robert E. Lee slept in a spindled crib like the one on display. Courtesy of Stratford Hall

The Lees had fallen on hard times and, after Light-Horse Harry died, the future general could not afford a university education. So Lee garnered an appointment to the US Military Academy at West Point, and there he began a distinguished military career.

He earned three honorary field promotions in the Mexican War, became Assistant to the Chief of the Engineer Corps and Superintendent of West Point, and commanded the Confederate Army of Northern Virginia. After the Civil War, Lee became the president of what is now Washington and Lee University.

But from 1807 to 1810, Robert E. Lee wasn’t any of those things; he was just a little boy enjoying a few short years in the house he would always call home. Built in the 1730s by great-uncle Thomas Lee, Stratford Hall was once a thriving plantation, a self-sufficient community that produced tobacco, wheat, barley, oats, flax and corn.

The Potomac River was the lifeline of Stratford Hall, and the plantation’s economy was based on the labor of its slaves and indentured servants. In 1782 the Lees owned approximately 137 slaves, divided among numerous living quarters on the property. The total number of Lee family members and white servants living on the property is estimated at 12.

The slave quarters located closest to the Great House were constructed of stone for improved appearance and resistance to fire. Photo by Paul Jean

Stratford Hall is now owned and operated by the Robert E. Lee Memorial Association, and a multi-million dollar restoration of the Great House is under way to restore several rooms to their late 18^th century appearance.

Tickets for a guided tour of the mansion may be purchased in the Stetson Building, where visitors can learn about the Lee family’s historical legacies and discover the wide variety of activities available at this 1,900-acre plantation. Most sightseers are surprised to learn that they can collect sharks teeth and fossils by walking along the small strip of beach adjacent to the grist mill.

The Miocene Cliffs are closed to the public, but visitors are welcome to comb the beach in search of the fossils of prehistoric sea creatures. Courtesy of Stratford Hall

A wood and steel bridge leads to the historic area, crossing a deep ravine – and the past two centuries. A docent will guide you through the house – built from 600,000 bricks that were made on the plantation from its clay and oyster shells and then hand-rubbed by its slaves.

Two meticulously restored and recreated stone buildings housed the families of enslaved people who worked in or near the Great House. The slave quarters are remarkable for both their level of detail and the insight they provide.

The dining room was a multi-purpose room that served as the center of family life at Stratford Hall. Courtesy of Stratford Hall

A guided tour of the house gives a look at the lives of all five generations of Lees, as well as the lives of their slaves and servants. You’ll see an impressive collection of American and English decorative arts that combine family pieces, period pieces and reproductions.

The Great Hall, resplendent in Georgian symmetry, has been described as one of the most beautiful rooms in America. You’ll be asked to take a seat and listen to a brief background of the family and the home, and then you’ll be walked through the mansion. Of special note is the room in which Robert E. Lee was born.

While you’ll see formal rooms that are gorgeous, it’s the utilitarian spaces of Stratford Hall that are especially fascinating. The school room, wet and dry stores, spinning and weaving area, kitchen, wine cellar and laundry illustrate the complexity of life on an 18^th century plantation.

In 1935 Stratford was dedicated as a memorial to the Lees, telling the story of a family, their home and their inextricable ties to American history.

When you go …

• Stratford Hall is currently open weekends, holidays and Robert E. Lee’s birthday.
• Great House admission is $10 for ages 12 and up, $5 for ages 6 – 11.
• Grounds Pass is $5 for ages 12 and up, $3 for ages 6 – 11.
• Hours vary by season; check www.stratfordhall.org.
• Tours are usually held 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Arrive 15 minutes early to buy tickets.
• The Plantation Store sells gifts, books, souvenirs, honey, drinks and snacks.

The Directors Bridge crosses a ravine – and 200 years – delivering visitors to the Great House and environs. Photo by Paul Jean

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2012, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

Destination: Baltimore, Maryland

What goes around comes around. Maybe that’s why visitors emerge from All Things Round: Galaxies, Eyeballs and Karma, now at the American Visionary Art Museum, feeling at peace with the world. It’s like a big hug from humanity, reminding us that life is good … for those who believe it.

The museum’s iconic whirligig, Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Happiness, is on permanent display in the courtyard. All photos taken by Paul Jean with special permission.

Feel the joy the minute the Federal Hill building comes into sight – all spangly and happy and adorned with mirror shards that catch the sun’s rays and bounce them in every direction. Vollis Simpson’s three-ton whirligig beckons, and Nadya Volicer’s welcome mat coaxes a smile. Where else can you clean your feet on 1,500 toothbrushes?

The works inside have been created by ordinary people ranging from high school dropouts to accomplished attorneys – WWII veterans and conscientious objectors alike – using hubcaps, electronic parts and other stuff of life, as well as toothpicks, matchsticks, Styrofoam cups and Mardi Gras beads. Oh, and the ratty tatty bras of 18,000 donors.

The artists are often society’s scavengers – dumpster divers and hoarders – living off the grid, on the wagon or in the apartment building next door. Most aren’t formally trained, but all have answered an inner call to create. You’ll soon realize that these folks are anything but ordinary, and their art is genuine.

A biography accompanies each work. Stories are pointed and poignant, at times describing the triumph of the human spirit over adversity. In other cases, they tell of the happy conclusion to a life well lived. A bigger picture emerges and, in a sense, the entire museum is one grand work of art.

All Things Round: Galaxies, Eyeballs and Karma is billed as the museum’s most voluptuous art exhibition to date. Its co-curators are AVAM‘s founder and director Rebecca Hoffberger and award-winning graphic designer Mary Ellen “Dolly” Vehlow.

Shawn Theron’s photo diary leads directly to the gift shop, where you may find the artist behind the cash register.

One of the first works to greet you is by Shawn Theron. Shawn shares a pivotal year in his life with 12,290 personal photos, punctuated by 52 of the trademark SOGH paintings that have been inspired by his grandmother, Red.

Thumbnail prints make the artist’s every day appear common place – birthdays, weddings, funerals – until you come to the chilling realization that Gus has had both a wedding and a funeral in 2003. Shawn’s friend and coworker was stabbed to death by his bride just a few months after the nuptials. Shawn lost Red that year, too.

Like life itself, the photo diary both warms and breaks the heart. For insight about the artist, look no further than the Sideshow, arguably the best museum gift shop on the planet. Here you’ll find Shawn behind the register much of the time, which begs the question: Is this a job, or is it performance art? No matter, Shawn is a force of nature and it’s always a great day when he’s around (pun intended).

The Sideshow sells original art, great books, vintage memories and fun novelty items, with the motto, “Come shopping, leave smiling.”

Also on the first floor, Emily Duffy’s Mama’s Milk features the aforementioned brouhaha of bras, all wound up in one big ball. Oh Say Can You See features 10 fascinating facts about eyes, along with the story of sculptor Herbert Singleton – an artist who was down but never out.

The banister of the staircase is bedazzled with bottle caps and bling, its walls featuring a favorite voyeuristic opportunity in the form of PostSecrets collected by Frank Warren. A barista’s admission that “When you’re rude to me, I make your drink decaf,” remind us to do unto others … or else.

Scott Weaver’s masterpiece, Rolling Through the Bay, is a personal tribute to San Francisco that started in the 4th grade.

Second-floor galleries include The Earth is a Blue Ball, featuring cosmic paintings by astronomer Greg Mort, and a 100,000 toothpick engineering marvel entitled Rolling through the Bay by Scott Weaver. Watch a film on Weaver’s work in the nearby Circle Theatre, and see the artist rolling ping pong balls through a nine-foot structure that defies both description and gravity.

Wendy Brackman’s Paper Plate Mandala is fine art made from the humblest of materials.

Mandala and Enso is a regular Jung Fest celebrating the inner circle of life, in juxtaposition to the Food Fest of Mario Batali’s Edible Balls. A recipe for the rotund chef’s famous spaghetti and meatballs is written on a paper plate in his own hand.

Mark Swidler uses only a pocket knife and Styrofoam cups to convey the personalities of his subjects.

Time – Cyclical, Linear or All-At-Once includes an exploration of the fast-approaching end of the Mayan calendar, and ReCYCLE: Reuse, Reinvent, Renew features Mark Swidler’s hand-carved Styrofoam cups – a creative way of heeding the New England admonition to “Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without.” Several themed rooms follow, completing an exhibit that’s over 70 visionary artists strong.

Across the courtyard in the Jim  Rouse Visionary Center, the Cabaret Mechanical Theatre displays a delightful collection of interactive wooden sculptures on topics that are rather unexpected. Flogging a Dead Horse, by Paul Spooner, is a favorite for its detail and dark humor.

Winning entries from past Kinetic Sculpture Races are featured, but winner is a relative term; contestants vie for the title of Grand Mediocre East Coast Champion by trying to finish right in the middle of the pack. Vehicles are crafted of garage cast-offs and backyard junk, designed to negotiate asphalt, mud and the cold, deep waters of the Inner Harbor.

"Fifi!" is the mascot of the Kinetic Sculpture Race, where entries are 100% human-powered works of art that traverse 15 miles of asphalt, mud and the deep waters of the Inner Harbor.

Museum Founder and Director Rebecca Alban Hoffberger explains that this race is more about ingenuity and creativity than it is about competition. “Come early for the Blessing of De Feet,” Dame Rebecca advises. “And you really should bring bribes for the judges … chocolate chip cookies, or something like that. We want to teach kids how the real world works.”

Perhaps the most inspirational work in the gallery is DeVon Smith’s enchantingly humanesque World’s First Family of Robots. Smith, a WWII veteran who made his living as a junk dealer and trader, held the Guinness World Record for hitchhiking over 500,000 miles in his lifetime. He left us with simple words he lived by: “Don’t sit in a chair. Get out and do it.”

Yes, get out and do it. Hop in the car, blast up to Baltimore and spend a day at the AVAM – it really will give you a feeling of peace, love and happiness, which you can spread all over the neighborhood when you get home. Because what goes around comes around.

Members of DeVon Smith’s robot family exhibit more than a glimmer of humanity.

When you go …

• Hours from 10 a.m.-6 p.m., from Tuesday-Sunday (usually closed on Monday).
• Free admission on Monday, January 16, Martin Luther King, Jr., Day.
• Regular admission is $15.95 for adults, $9.95 for children and students.
• Abundant metered parking is available on Covington Street and Key Highway.
• “All Things Round” runs through September 2, 2012.

Gregory Warmack, a.k.a. Mr. Imagination, has donated his throne to the American Visionary Art Museum’s permanent collection.

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2012, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

The following posting is an introduction to “Middle of Nowhere,” a book of poems by George Owens and photography by Paul Jean.

We’ll be back again next week (January 11), with a trip to the American Visionary Art Museum’s latest exhibit, All Things Round: Galaxies, Eyeballs and Karma.

Middle of Nowhere

The C&O Canal is a haven for hikers, cyclists, anglers and lovers of nature, a 184 mile swath of parkland that follows the Potomac River out of Washington, DC. For some, a visit to the canal is a spiritual experience, as well.

Such is the case with George Owens, an English teacher at our local high school. George boldly goes where few have gone before, to the very edges of the canal, in search of its secrets. From his quests come three poignant sets of poems painting lyric paths to love, the onset of age and transcendence.

Paul Jean, on the other hand, goes where many have gone before. As photographer for www.roamingtheplanet.com, Paul usually enjoys the sights of the Mid-Atlantic region through the lens of his Nikon, creating photos to accompany the website’s travel writing.

Now George has led Paul into the Middle of Nowhere, to capture sights that challenge the boundaries of the natural world. From these treks off the beaten path come two sequences of captivating images that express Paul’s own view of the canal.

Plate XIX by Paul Jean

The excerpt below, “Harpers Ferry in December,” gives a glimpse at the wit and wisdom of George Owens. The sample photo, untitled and referred to simply as Plate XIX, reveals Paul’s affinity for the abstract.

The book is presented in gallery format, and its pages lead us on a thought-provoking journey to a place where the past, as William Faulkner observed, has never left the present.

Middle of Nowhere is currently available for purchase through Amazon.com.

Harpers Ferry in December

by George Owens

My bed has the same clean sheets
As two weeks ago and a savings of water and soap.

On the microwave numbers two and five don’t work.
There is an advanced model at the store.

This old one can be restored though
By my little finger’s calculations.

Those dollars not spent are free not to be spent.
Slow the car by the steak house and roll down the window.

Breathe in and keep driving.  Our love is not poor
Which seldom knows the feel of paper and coin.

Anything expensive is something
The crowd wants (that’s plain economics),

So there must be something seriously
Wrong with it. We know about crowds.

Any thing that costs anything is flawed!
So let us, Sweetheart, find our bird friends again!

This sedan holds the narrow road. O, how
That headscarf so rounds your face.

I’ve got my fedora.  Who’s to care
If we’re too much old?  That kiss was not.

On the coldest day, when no one opens a door,
Nick and Nora hold hands under Maryland Heights.

Crowds don’t know the full half of it.
We shiver and watch on the old bridge free.

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved
Excerpts from Middle of Nowhere, copyright 2011, George Owens and Paul Jean. All rights reserved.

It’s a good day to die. At least that’s the feeling that sweeps over visitors to Anglo-Saxon Hoard, the exhibit of medieval artifacts making its only stop in the United States at the National Geographic Museum’s Explorers Hall in Washington, DC.

Warriors in chainmail and helmets do battle on screens that surround the entryway, setting a stage for the fantastic treasure that awaits. Quotes from the epic poem Beowulf adorn the walls, speaking of ancient gold and garnered jewels and the dazzling spoils of war. Suddenly it’s all very real, and it’s right there in front of you.

Two years ago, when hobbyist Terry Herbert set out to explore Fred Johnson’s Staffordshire farm with nothing more than a metal detector, a hunch and a prayer – “Spirits of the yesteryears, take me where the gold appears” – he surely could not have predicted the course of events that would soon follow.

Veteran metal detector hobbyist Terry Herbert holds the equipment that led him to the first objects from the Staffordshire Hoard in 2009. Photograph by Robert Clark

The stash he found on July 5, 2009 was dubbed the Staffordshire Hoard and is the largest uncovered to date, with over 3,500 individual pieces –the fragments of helmets and the hilt plates, pommel caps, collars and mounts of swords –valued at just under $5.3 million. Although most of it is military in nature, a few religious artifacts reveal that these guys might have been preparing to meet their maker.

Impressive in their sheer number, the 3,500 gold and silver pieces that make up the hoard are remarkable in that they bear no objects intended for female use. It is estimated that the fittings represented in the hoard may have outfitted a band of approximately 80 men. Photograph by Robert Clark

Buried sometime in the late 7^th century AD in what was once Mercia – the most powerful of the Anglo-Saxon kingdoms fighting for power and land in Post-Roman Britain – the items are mangled, bent and torn asunder. There is much speculation as to what the hoard represents, and why it was found in this condition.

The brief film Lost Gold of the Dark Ages is shown every 20 minutes starting at the top of the hour, putting the discovery into historical context and explaining its significance, as well as the mystery surrounding it. Were the pieces defaced and buried as part of a pagan ritual? Were they stolen by medieval marauders and stashed in the field to pick up later? Or were they the spoils of war, akin to the treasures Beowulf sought?

Staffordshire Hoard - post conservation. Photograph by David Rowan

Lethal times called for lethal weapons, and that is what you’ll see in this exhibit. Elevated and lighted displays bring you about as close to the 7^th century as you’ll probably ever want to get. The cache of gold, silver and garnet objects is extraordinary in detail and quality, with filigree and cloisonné made by master craftsmen of the day.

Staffordshire Hoard - post conservation. Photograph by David Rowan

Don’t miss the folded cross – one of only three religious artifacts in the hoard. It may have once topped a processional cross or a Bible cover and contained a large garnet or other gemstone. Now it is the centerpiece of an exhibit that might best be referred to as mind-blowing.

A replica helmet is on display to show how the recovered bits and pieces may have come together. Since only four complete helmets are known to exist from the Anglo-Saxon period, even these broken shards are significant.

The exhibit offers an opportunity to learn about the daily life, clothing, culture and food of the Dark Ages and features plenty of activities for kids. Searching for hidden items in a dig pit with a metal detector illustrates that the hobby requires patience and might not be quite as easy as it looks.

Family activity backpacks are on loan at the front desk for an enhanced educational experience. A daily drop-in project allows kids to build their own helmets at 2 p.m., and weekend workshops on topics ranging from culinary arts to calligraphy are offered at 1 p.m. (advance registration required).

Terry Herbert’s find will probably become the greatest archeological discovery of the 21^st Century. It has been carefully examined and researched for the past two years in an effort to better understand the warfare, religion and craftsmanship of the Dark Ages, perhaps yielding more questions than answers.

Staffordshire Hoard - post conservation. Photograph by David Rowan

Anglo-Saxon Hoard is on exhibit from 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. daily until March 4, when it will be returned to its owners, the Birmingham Museum and Arts Gallery and the Pottery Museum and Arts Gallery in Stoke-on-Kent.

When you go…
Admission to the exhibit is included with museum ticket ($8 for adults, $6 for kids 5-12).

Upcoming workshops include:

• Sunday, January 15: Dig Deeper: A How-to for Junior Archaeologists
• Saturday, January 28: Anglo-Saxon Culinary Expressions
• Saturday, February 11: Anglo-Saxon Calligraphy: Exploring the Art of Elegance
• Sunday, February 12: Dig Deeper: A How-to for Junior Archaeologists
• Sunday, March 4: Dig Deeper: A How-to for Junior Archaeologists.

To register, email NatGeoMuseum@ngs.org.

For additional information, visit http://events.nationalgeographic.com/events/exhibits/.

Elephant and Castle Pub and Restaurant
Bang on! That’s British slang for excellent. Exact. Right on.

The Elephant and Castle at the corner of 19^th and “Eye” Streets, within walking distance of Explorers Hall, is bang on for a bite to eat after visiting Anglo-Saxon Hoard. The restaurant offers a comfy setting, fire in the fireplace and food that’s out to prove Brits can cook.

The bar: Guinness is on tap, along with classic pub food and good times, at the Elephant and Castle. Photo by Paul Jean

This is comfort food from the other side of the pond. Roast beef stuffed Yorkshire pudding, chicken pot pie, fish and chips, bangers and mash and the ploughman’s platter make up the backbone of a classic pub menu, promising stick-to-your-ribs-on-a-cold-winter-day goodness.

Jameson’s chicken is pan sautéed in whisky cream sauce and served with green beans and garlic mash. Soups, salads and sandwiches round out the menu, and weekend brunch features the Great British Breakfast, as well as $4 Bloody Marys and mimosas.

If you have room, order the Bailey’s Cheesecake, Highland Bread Pudding or Big Ben Brownie. It’s a good day to … eat.

The fireplace: A roaring fire welcomes day trippers after a visit to Anglo-Saxon Hoard at Explorers Hall. Photo by Paul Jean

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos, except as noted, copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

A visit to Ellicott City lends an unmistakable feeling of déjà vu. Nostalgic buildings spanning three centuries house purveyors of fine home accessories, foods, gifts, antiques and collectibles, each with picturesque storefronts and the personalized service reminiscent of a bygone era.

A B&O railroad bridge greets visitors at the west end of town, adding to Ellicott City’s 19th century flavor. All photos by Paul Jean.

Enjoy the ambiance of the town with a stroll along Main Street, starting at the circa 1780 Thomas Isaac Log Cabin on the west end of town. The oldest surviving residential structure in Howard County provides an opportunity to learn about the history of the region and imagine what life was like for the settlers of the Patapsco River Valley.

A mural depicting Ellicott City’s happy, historic vibe adorns one of its buildings.

This was the cradle of the Industrial Revolution in Maryland. Ellicott City started as a tiny trade center for Ellicott Mills, a flour mill established in 1772 by three Quaker brothers from Bucks County, Pennsylvania. The trio persuaded farmers to plant wheat instead of tobacco, and they built a thriving business on that agricultural twist of fate.

The town became home to the first terminus of the B&O Railroad outside of Baltimore in 1830, and its train station has been designated the oldest surviving station in America. Located on the east end of town, it’s now a museum that offers something for every member of the family.

The B&O Museum’s Ellicott City Station is the oldest in the country and a great stop during any season.

Exhibits are set up in rooms labeled by purpose – Men’s Waiting Room, Women’s Waiting Room, Telegraph Office – so you can see how the oldest station in the country functioned in its heyday. Sitting on a bench in one of the waiting rooms, you can almost feel the thunder of a steam locomotive approaching the station.

The Freight Agent’s living quarters are recreated in such detail that it appears he just stepped out for a coffee break.

In addition to the Freight House’s permanent HO layout, the Holiday Festival of Trains offers a Thomas the Tank operating G-scale layout, an O-scale crazy train layout, a push button children’s layout, and a brand new multi-level, O-scale model train layout that took over 750 hours for three full-time builders to complete. The holiday displays will be featured through January 29.

Looking out on Ellicott City from its train station, little seems to have changed in the past century.

The town’s Historic District was designated in 1973 to preserve and encourage restoration of its old structures, and you can pick up a map for a walking tour in the Visitors Center. Main Street has evolved quite nicely while retaining the look and feel of its humble roots — this isn’t Walt Disney’s Main Street, it’s yours and mine.

Here everything old is new again –a former Post Office turned Visitors Center, a row house reinvented as an antique emporium and doll hospital, and an old-fashioned movie theater featuring Boyd Bears and Snowbabies on the marquee.

Today visitors flock to Ellicott City to enjoy its unique shops and restaurants in their historic setting.

Antiques reign supreme, in addition to stores selling everything from upscale apparel for dogs at the Yuppy Puppy to sea glass earrings for his best friend at Art and Artisan. Mumbles and Squeaks Toy Shoppe has been touted by the Washington Post as a child’s fantasy brought to life, and Sweet Cascades earned a Best of Baltimore award in 2009.

This diminutive candy store is packed with both old fashioned favorites and newfangled flavors. Sweet Cascades owners Sue and Rick Whary have a way with chocolate – enrobing just about anything imaginable with the food of the gods. The results are quite interesting, and you can decide for yourself what’s hot and what’s not.

The owners of Sweet Cascades will wax poetic about enrobing typical snack foods with chocolate if given the opportunity.

Popular items include pork rinds, bacon, Doritos, beefy jerky, jalapeno peppers and Cheetos, all making the chocolate-coated Twinkies on a stick look almost pedestrian. The shop is best known for its Old Bay flavored, crab-shaped chocolates, an unexpectedly pleasing compliment to beer …Marylandmade and microbrewed, of course.

The award-winning Ellicott Mills Brewing Company boasts eight beers on tap, with four-glass flights priced at $6.95 – $7.95. Growler refills are also available with a deposit. An extensive menu offers soups, salads, burgers, steaks, lobsters and, for the more adventurous diner, wild game.

The #14 and #9 trolley cars once stopped right outside the circa 1833 Trolley Stop restaurant, where you can now get breakfast, lunch and dinner.

At the Judge’s Bench Pub you can have your history and eat it, too – this premier tap house was actually Howard County’s courthouse in the 1800s. While taverns remain a popular favorite on a cold winter day, other cuisines are represented with restaurants serving everything from traditional British afternoon tea to Japanese-American fusion.

Other points of historic interest include the county’s first fire station, now a museum that houses firefighting memorabilia and equipment, and the ruins of the Patapsco Female Institute, stabilized to become the centerpiece of a historic park. Hours are limited in the winter, so it’s best to focus on the numerous shops and restaurants at this time of year.

Once a successful department store, Taylor’s is now one of the largest antique malls in the area, with over 60 dealers sharing four floors.

The old-fashioned, unadulterated five-and-dime-store flavor of Ellicott City will probably remind you of somewhere else you’ve been before. If you’re from the Northeast, that might be another mill town like Lowell, Massachusetts, and if you’re from the West it could be one of Colorado’s gold rush magnets, like Leadville.

Ellicott City is our own slice of small town Americana, right in Washington, D.C.’s backyard. A visit will recall a time when we didn’t shop online or at the mall, and we knew the shopkeepers by name and could chat with them about their wares. And ask, “Why bacon?”

Happy Holidays from Ellicott City!

When you go …

• The B&O Railroad Museum is open Wednesday – Sunday from 11 a.m. – 4 p.m.
• Museum admission is $5 for adults, $3 for kids 2 – 12 and free for kids under 2.
• Parking is abundant and free at several municipal lots located around the city.

Story copyright 2011, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2011, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

Gallery of Historic Images

All images courtesy of the Library of Congress, Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division Washington, D.C. 20540 USA.

1. Ellicott’s Mills, Maryland

Bird's eye view of Ellicott's Mills, Maryland. Lithograph and print by E. Sachse & Co., Baltimore, c1854. (Detail from full print.) Library of Congress Reproduction Number: LC-DIG-pga-02596 (digital file from original print).

2. Main Street, Ellicott City, Maryland, 1936

8010-8046 Main Street (Stone House Facades), Ellicott City, Howard County, MD. Historic American Buildings Survey, E. H. Pickering, Photographer, August 1936. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HABS MD, 14-ELLCI, 8--1

3. Main Street, Ellicott City, Maryland, 1936

8133 Main Street (Shop Front), Ellicott City, Howard County, MD. Historic American Buildings Survey, E. H. Pickering, Photographer, August 1936. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HABS MD, 14-ELLCI, 9--1

4. Columbia Pike, Ellicott City, Maryland, 1936

Columbia Pike (Stone Houses), Ellicott City, Howard County, MD. Historic American Buildings Survey, E. H. Pickering, Photographer, August 1936. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HABS MD, 14-ELLCI, 5--1

5. B&O Railroad, Ellicott’s Mills Station

VIEW OF STATION AND PLATFORM, LOOKING SOUTH TOWARDS BALTIMORE - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Ellicott's Mills Station, South Side of State Route 144, Ellicott City, Howard County, MD. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 14-ELLCI, 11--3

6. B&O Railroad, Ellicott’s Mills Station, South Elevation

VIEW OF SOUTH ELEVATION - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Ellicott's Mills Station. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 14-ELLCI, 11--6

7. B&O Railroad, Ellicott’s Mills Station, Station Agent‘s Office

INTERIOR VIEW OF STATION AGENT'S OFFICE - Baltimore & Ohio Railroad, Ellicott's Mills Station. Library of Congress Reproduction Number: HAER MD, 14-ELLCI, 11--8