It’s said that four wheels move the body, but two wheels move the soul. I didn’t really get that until recently, when I took Harley-Davidson’s Steel Toe Tour of its 650,000-square-foot Vehicle Operations Plant in York, PA.

Harley-Davidson employs state-of-the-art robotics and approximately 1,000 union workers in a streamlined process that turns out Touring, Softail, CVO and Trike models on a single integrated assembly line and produces certain parts – frames, fuel tanks and fenders – for the famed motorcycle maker.

Stop by the Visitors Center, which features cycles in various stages of the production process. Photo by Paul Jean

About three months ago, they introduced the Steel Toe Tour as a direct result of its ongoing dialog between company and riders. Bikers have traditionally loved the factory’s free one-hour tour, but they craved a more in-depth look at the manufacturing process. They wanted to witness firsthand the art of US-made steel being stamped, pressed, forged, formed, welded and dressed into the stuff of their dreams.

The Visitors Center offers a chance to sit – and drool – on the Harley of your dreams. Photo by Paul Jean

The Steel Toe Tour is not for the faint of heart: It lasts a full two hours instead of one, involves a $35 admission fee and takes visitors right out to the middle of the factory floor. You’d be hard-pressed to find a better tour experience, a bigger dose of pride in American craftsmanship, or a more interesting slice-of-life – all in well under three hours of the nation’s capital.

Harley-Davidson pride is apparent, even in the smallest of details. Photo by Paul Jean

Small groups are outfitted in the requisite boots, protective eyewear and Hi-Vis vests before being led past the perimeter and into another world, where the sights, sounds and smells of manufacturing surround. A laser-wielding robot takes aim to cut front fenders and drill bolt holes with great precision, resembling a scene from Tony Stark’s basement. But more commonly the endeavor is a well-executed ballet of man and machine, with the line between the two often blurring.

A union worker completes assembly of a Harley-Davidson gas tank, destined for testing and the paint shop. Photo courtesy of Harley-Davidson

Nowhere is that more evident than with the welding of the Touring frame. A human operator preps a 1,000-pound fixture and sends it into a gigantic cell, where robotic helpers are at-the-ready. The tight team of six welds and moves the fixture in a shower of sparks, completing 264 linear inches of welding in four minutes flat.

After it’s returned to the human welder for inspection and touch-up, the frame and tail section go back to the cell to be placed on an exit conveyor. Frames are then loaded on to a battery-powered automatic guided cart, which follows a magnetized strip on the floor and cues up for painting.

Particularly fascinating is a lesson on the powder-coating process, in which negatively charged paint powder is sprayed onto positively charged parts and then baked at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 20 minutes, much like a cinnamon bun. Human touch-up artists take a trip through the wind tunnel – you can, too – and suit up to prevent dust and lint from getting in the finished work.

The finishing touches are meticulously added to the gas tank of a Harley-Davidson. Photo courtesy of Harley-Davidson

Videos along the tour explain parts of the process you can’t see, but there’s plenty to take in, all the same. Sparks fly, engines rev and the smell of paint lingers in the air. Bruce Springsteen provides the soundtrack from a distant work station, competing with the din and just barely winning. As far as tours go, it really doesn’t get much better than this.

A motorcycle is technically born in the USA when it gets stamped with a VIN, and then it enters the assembly line for the final journey.  Remember the automated guided carts? The York plant employs a sizeable fleet and assigns one to carry each motorcycle on its entire trip through assembly. With all those driverless vehicles running around the floor, it’s imperative that visitors stay together, listen to the tour guide and obey the red-light-green light system on the factory floor.

When the tour is over, you’ll wonder where the two hours have gone. Even if you’re not particularly into all things automotive, there’s a certain level of patriotic pride in touring a real live manufacturing facility that, while highly mechanized, has still managed to keep its heart and soul.

This Harley-Davidson Trike is designed to be “the ultimate badass touring machine.” Photo by Paul Jean

When you go …

• The Steel Toe Tour is offered at 9:30 and noon from Monday – Thursday, and lasts two hours.
• The $35 fee includes a souvenir safety vest, commemorative pin and group photo.
• Availability is limited, and reservations are recommended (877-883-1450).
• Closed-toe, low-heeled, closed shoes are required (no Crocs or clogs).
• Children under 12 are not permitted on the factory tours; visitors under 18 must be with an adult.
• Cameras and recording devices are not allowed in the factory.
• Bags or packages such as knapsacks, luggage or camera bags are not allowed in the facility.
• No tours on weekends, major holidays or during production changes and year-end maintenance.

Going Hog Wild

Appalachian Brewing Company has several locations in the area and, lucky for us, the one at 401 Buford Avenue in Gettysburg was on our way home. ABC is known for handcrafting beers with 100% natural ingredients and a strict adherence to craft brewing standards.

Grab a Hog Wild Sandwich at the Appalachian Brewing Company in Gettysburg. Photo by Paul Jean

Flagship brews include Trail Blaze Organic Brown Ale, Water Gap Wheat, Purist Pale Ale, Mountain Lager, Jolly Scot Scottish Ale, Hoppy Trails IPA, Susquehanna Stout and a big, boozy Broad Street Barley Wine. Their menu stretches beyond the usual pub fare, with salads, soups, sandwiches and full-size meals that include Mile-high Meatloaf and Brewer’s Mac & Cheese.

But after a couple of hours watching Harley-Davidsons being built, you might want to wrap your hands around the Hog Wild. This bad boy’s been rubbed, braised in beer, slow roasted, dressed with root beer BBQ sauce and tucked in a brioche roll.

A pulled pork sandwich never tasted so good – the perfect fuel for riding off into the sunset.

If Thomas Jefferson were alive today, he would, no doubt, be pleased. Not necessarily with the state of the union, but certainly with the state of its wine industry.

A trip to Barboursville Vineyards gives the visitor a look at our third president’s dream come true – a thriving wine industry on American soil. Here one of Italy’s most respected wine-making families is producing some of Virginia’s most celebrated wines in the shadow of the ruins of one of Jefferson’s finest architectural feats.

Thomas Jefferson’s trademark Octagon design is a prominent feature in the ruins of Governor Barbour’s mansion. All photos by Paul Jean

Jefferson loved the fruit of the vine – during his eight years in the White House, he spent approximately $16,500 on the European wines he uncorked to entertain guests and enlighten their palates. So it’s not surprising that Virginia’s original Renaissance man would want to give winemaking a try for himself.

Jefferson doggedly pursued the cultivation of Vitis vinfera, the classic European grape, for nearly half a century in his vineyards at Monticello in Charlottesville. He was convinced that “ We could in the United States, make as great a variety of wine as are made in Europe, not exactly of the same kinds but doubtless as good.”

A museum inside the winery exhibits antique equipment and details the evolution of wine making in Virginia.

Despite Jefferson’s passion for fine wine, he didn’t produce a single glass. His nemesis – small but at that time unstoppable –was Phylloxera vastatrix, a species of aphid with an affinity for the roots of European vines.

Native American vines were naturally resistant to the pest, but produced wines of inferior quality. Jefferson kept the hope alive that the young republic would one day produce fine wine, so he chronicled his attempts for future viticulturists in the appellation of Virginia.

In addition to having been a Founding Father, a prolific writer and a devoted wine enthusiast, Jefferson was also an accomplished architect. The house he designed in the early 19^th century for his good friend and then-governor James Barbour was so spectacular that it came to be known as “the finest residence in Orange County.”

Barboursville Vineyards provides unique photo opportunities both inside and out.

Construction of the masterpiece began in 1814 and continued for eight years, culminating in a work that incorporated Jefferson’s trademark elements – most notably the octagonal great room. Barbour died in 1842, and the family continued to live there until fire destroyed the mansion on Christmas Day in 1884.

Meanwhile, things had started to look up for the Virginia wine industry. The war on bugs was won in 1877, thanks to the grafting of European vines onto American rootstocks to protect Vitis vinfera from its mortal enemy.

About a century later the Zonin family, owners of the largest privately held wine company in Italy, made the fateful decision to expand to America– and they chose to plant roots on the former Barbour estate. Just 20 miles north of Monticello and in the same valley, Barboursville Vineyards is now realizing Jefferson’s dream.

Winemaker Luca Pashina has guided this estate and greatly influenced the leadership of Virginia viticulture for twenty years. The results of his progressive approach and creative outlook can be sampled in one of the most attractive tasting rooms in the commonwealth.

Award-winning wines are available to sample in the Italian-villa-style tasting room.

The setting resembles an Italian farmhouse with stucco interior walls, an exposed beam ceiling and a ceramic tile floor. Compelling views of the surrounding countryside abound, resembling a folk art painting. A very classy one.

Tastings include over 15 wines for $5, with your glass as a take-away souvenir. The bar is separated into three distinct stations – white, red and dessert wines – with a guru for each. This approach worked perfectly on a recent visit, but traffic has been known to flow less smoothly in the busier months so it’s best to arrive early.

The view of the winery is breathtakingly beautiful during every season of the year.

The Gift Shop is adjacent to the Tasting Room and sells accessories for the oenophile, as well as fine books on the topic. A tour of the winery includes the history of Barboursville and a visit to its stylish museum.

Exhibits give a rare opportunity to commune with Thomas Jefferson and trace the path of his thought process, as he heeded the words of classic poet Virgil on working with the earth. Sketches of Jefferson’s plans for planting orchards at Monticello are almost artistic.

In the Barrel Room, row upon row of aging Octagon wine surrounds. This is Barboursville’s flagship wine, a Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot that’s worth the trip in itself.

The flagship wine of Barboursville Vineyards ages in stacked oak barrels.

Because Italians love their ruins, the Zonins decided not to restore the Barbour mansion but instead to stabilize it, so that it won’t deteriorate any further. The scenic ruins are now on the National Register of Historic Places and open to the public until 5:30 p.m. daily. A self-guided tour of all that remains is the perfect finish to the day.

When you go:

• Enjoy a tasting for $5; return with the glass on another day and taste for $3.
• Winery hours are Monday-Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m., and Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
• Tours are offered from 12 to 4 p.m.
• The ruins are open until 5:30 p.m.
• Picnic tables offer a great spot for a casual lunch with a view.
• The 1804 Inn at Barboursville Vineyards provides serene and elegant lodging.
• Palladio Restaurant offers classic Northern Italian cuisine. Business casual attire is required for lunch and dinner, and reservations are required for dinner.

 Historic Photos

Barboursville, Orange County, Virginia, photographed by Frances Benjamin Johnston in 1930, Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number: LC-DIG-csas-05304.

Barboursville, Orange County, Virginia, photographed by Frances Benjamin Johnston in 1930, Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division, Reproduction Number: LC-DIG-csas-05305.

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]]> http://roamingtheplanet.com/2012/05/days-of-wine-and-ruins/feed/ 0 http://roamingtheplanet.com/2012/05/the-torpedo-factory/ http://roamingtheplanet.com/2012/05/the-torpedo-factory/#comments Wed, 02 May 2012 02:50:19 +0000 Elaine Jean http://roamingtheplanet.com/?p=2045 The Torpedo Factory Arts Center is a thriving year ‘round celebration of the arts, scenically situated on the waterfront in Old Town Alexandria. Here more than 160 artists work in studios spread over three floors, connected by an extensive system of catwalks. Continue reading →]]> Destination: Old Town Alexandria

The Torpedo Factory Arts Center is a thriving year ‘round celebration of the arts, scenically situated on the waterfront in Old Town Alexandria.  Here more than 160 artists work in studios spread over three floors, connected by an extensive system of catwalks.

Observe artists and purchase original works of art at a former torpedo factory that’s now a world-renowned art center. All photos by Paul Jean

Good Vibrations
Inspiration seems to travel through the air, along with music from an unlikely source: brandy snifters.

On most weekends, Jamey Turner sets up his glass harp on the corner outside the Torpedo Factory’s front door playing everything from Beethoven to Brubeck. One recent Saturday I stood at the edge of his makeshift stage, closing my eyes for a moment and savoring music that Thomas Jefferson might have enjoyed – Yankee Doodle Dandy and The Star Spangled Banner – laced with anecdotes from this talented street musician.

Jamey Turner likes to say he finds the uncommon in the common, making beautiful music with wine glasses and water.

Turner has appeared at the Kennedy Center, in National Geographic Magazine and on Johnny Carson’s Tonight Show for his rare talent – he’s one of only a few dozen people in the world who has mastered an instrument that was invented in 1741 and made popular throughout the remainder of the 18^th century.

Prepare to be amazed as he works dozens of wine glasses that are partially filled with water –distilled, but never tap – to produce the perfect pitch. He speaks of molecular integrity and the intonation that’s gained from H20 that’s free of minerals and chemicals. But the bottom line is that this man can make barware sing.

The Torpedo Factory Arts Center
Inside, many of the artists are on site creating watercolors, prints, textiles, jewelry, glassware and photographic arts. It’s fun to walk through the maze of color and creativity, chatting with them about their labors of love. And there’s no better way for kids to learn an appreciation for art than to meet the people who create it.

The history of the place is inspirational, too, providing the perfect example of how a center for the arts can revitalize a community. The Torpedo Factory started life as a factory for the manufacture of torpedo shell casings in 1918 and operated through WWII. In 1969 the city of Alexandria purchased the building, and in 1974 it opened to the public. The development of the waterfront area followed, and soon the good times rolled.

Susan Sanders enjoys creating Silkworms in her studio at the Torpedo Factory Arts Center.

Today the Torpedo Factory plays host to over 500,000 visitors per year and serves as a model for visual arts centers around the world. Featured artists must pass a jury review before they are considered for studio space. And the work you see has all been created right here.

On the third floor in Studio 327 is the Alexandria Archeological Museum and Research Lab, where Alexandria digs its past. A current exhibit uses the excavation of a city block to reveal the steps of the archeological process and the history of Alexandria with representations of 18^th century wharves and early 19^th century homes, shops, taverns and warehouses.

Volunteers can be found in the archaeology lab on most Fridays, washing, marking or cataloguing items from a recent site or working with artifacts.

Rachel Collins, a watercolor artist, can be found creating new works in Studio 342.

The Torpedo Factory offers numerous events throughout the year, and most are free to the public. The Spring Open House is featured on Sunday, May 13 from 1 – 5 p.m., promising a lively Mothers’ Day filled with artist demonstrations, live music, hands-on activities, sparkling wine and treats.

Good feelings spill right out the back door and onto the boardwalk, where recreational craft is docked, food and beverages are sold, street music is enjoyed, and the Potomac Riverboat Company shoves off for tours of the harbor.

Street performers on the boardwalk fill the harbor area with music from around the world.

Society Fair
Old Town has dozens of interesting shops and award winning restaurants, several of which are owned by the EatGoodFood Group, and in January the fabulous foodies launched Society Fair at 277 S. Washington St. This is not just an emporium of good things to eat; it’s a place of worship, as well.

Creative confections in Society Fair’s bakery are worthy of a celebration and worth every calorie.

Cozy up to the stylish – but not off-putting – wine bar and order a mid-day snack or light lunch, accompanied by fine wine by the glass. Oh, so civilized.

Your server will be happy to recommend just the right wine to pair with eclectic sandwiches, such as My Turkish Cousin (lamb shoulder, preserved lemon yogurt, sultana mostarda and sautéed spinach on flatbread). From this vantage point you can watch signature drinks being made, food being savored, people having fun.

You may not want to leave your perch, but when you do be sure to check out the goodies in the bakery, butchery and cheese shop. This is the place to forage for the ingredients to make one kickass antipasto. Or take home a slice of from-scratch coconut or carrot cake, and you’ll never buy the stuff at the grocery store again.

Society Fair is a much-needed celebration that presents food as art, with a touch of whimsy. The wine bar is open Monday through Thursday from 11:30 a.m. – 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11:30 a.m. – 10:30 p.m. and Sunday from 5 – 9 p.m.

Attention to detail and a whimsical approach make Society Fair a haven for foodies.

Sometimes it’s fun to be nearsighted!

When Paul and I founded roamingtheplanet.com over a year ago, our original mandate was to enjoy the world around us – and beyond – from a new perspective. This week Paul has clicked into macro setting and headed out on foot to discover the engaging topics and things of beauty in our own neighborhood that are sometimes overlooked.

What’s in your immediate field of vision? Taking a few hours – or even a few moments – to look at the world up close and personal can yield surprising results.

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All photos by Paul Jean

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To Market, to Market

At the Farmer’s Wife in both Remington and Culpeper, Lori Andes still does things the old fashioned way. All photos by Paul Jean

Remington is a time capsule of a town, made obsolete by the new highway like so many of the good ones are. Found ½ mile down Freeman Ford Road off Route 29, a block of turn-of-the-century buildings gives a glimpse of small town America and reveals traces of Remington’s role as a thriving transportation hub.

A restored circa 1903 building in downtown Remington recalls a time when the village was not off the beaten path.

Stop by the Farmer’s Wife – open Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. and Saturday from 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. – and browse the aisles in this vintage grocery store. Lori Andes has assembled an impressive array of local, organic, natural and even gluten-free items and baked goods in the store that her step-grandmother once owned.

Grab coffee and a fresh turnover and stay for a bit at one of the tables in the window, where you’ll look out on a town that appears much the same as it did decades ago. After breakfast walk around and explore Remington Drug, with its nostalgia-inducing soda fountain, and Groves Hardware, with its time-worn wooden floors. A barber shop and a variety store will make you think you’ve been transported to Mayberry, RFD.

Moonshine Just Like Grampy Used to Make

The copper pot still at Belmont Farm is much like the one Miller’s grandfather used to make moonshine.

Tucked away down a country road on the outskirts of Culpeper, Chuck Miller pays homage to his grandfather’s legacy and the Commonwealth of Virginia’s heritage by making moonshine with a new twist – an ABC license.

A picturesque horse barn hints at life on the Miller family farm.

Belmont Farm Distillery produces its moonshine in an authentic 2,000-gallon copper still – circa 1933 – using the same recipe Miller’s Grampy did during Prohibition. The result is a product that will probably put hair on your chest. And if you didn’t want hair on your chest, that’s just too bad.

The newest offering, Stillhouse’s Original Moonshine, is “distilled four times to reach perfection.” I bought a bottle and did, indeed, find the premium moonshine to be a more perfect way to put hair on your chest.

Chuck Miller is the star of his own tour, leading guests through the process of making both moonshine and aged whiskey.

Moonshine is made from corn, and this corn is raised, grown, ground and fermented on Miller’s 124-acre family farm. Lively tours by the Moonshine Man himself appeal to everyone from hardcore history buffs to weekend motorcycle groups.

Every hour on the hour Miller dances through his distillery, dishing out anecdotes sprinkled with family secrets. This is clearly a man who loves what he does and may just be the highlight of the day.

The free tour offers a living history lesson, since the making and moving of moonshine is inextricably tied to the flavor of the Old Dominion state. Moonshine runners once supercharged their cars to evade local law enforcement, and when the need to speed was no longer essential the great sport of NASCAR racing was born.

The quaintness of Belmont Farm, combined with the folksy friendliness of the host and his wife, make moonshine seem downright wholesome. Paradoxically, the unmistakably sweet-sour smell of mash and the woodsy aroma of aging whiskey are nearly intoxicating.

Belmont Farm is part distillery, part living history museum and all fun.

Bottling takes place every Wednesday on antique equipment and is described by the owner as rather intense. You can watch the process through a small window but will not be allowed in the bottling room for your own safety.

The gift shop sells the usual souvenirs along with a few more spirited ones, and features a display case containing arrowheads and Civil War artifacts. A small gallery gives its owner bragging rights, with photos that include at least one president and a famously forensic author.

You can’t taste products on the premises, but you can buy Belmont Farm’s White Lightning and Kopper Kettle, as well as Stillhouse’s Original Moonshine, for sipping on your front porch. Belmont Farm is open from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday and closed on Sunday.

Belmont Farm produces White Lightning and Kopper Kettle, as well as Stillhouse’s Original Moonshine.

Haunted, Historic Culpeper

Downtown Culpeper is a daytrip-within-a-daytrip. Pick up a map at the train depot and explore the many and varied antique stores, gourmet shops and purveyors of pottery, clothing and international arts and crafts. And when it comes time to eat, Culpeper’s got you covered.

The Hazel River Inn, located in the oldest commercial building in town, occupies a lot that was once surveyed by the young George Washington. In 1790 an addition was tacked on for use as a tobacco warehouse.

The basement served as a jail for both the Union and the Confederacy during the Civil War, and it now houses a ghost or two, along with a pub serving up casual food, microbrews and live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Lunch is offered starting at noon on the weekends.

The first floor dining room, a hardware store for many years, is warm and welcoming with exposed brick walls, a centrally located fireplace and an upscale menu. It’s open Thursday through Sunday for lunch and dinner.

The Hazel River Inn will put you in touch with Historic Culpeper, and possible some of the spirits that dwell there.

It’s estimated that certain members of the human race spend a combined 3 billion hours per week playing video games.

Ask a gamer why, and they may wax poetic about the out-of-body experience of venturing into ancient tombs, rising through the ranks of the criminal underworld and saving loved ones from a serial killer. Ask a parent about it, and they’ll probably deem the endeavor a colossal waste of time and couch space.

But is it art? The Smithsonian American Art Museum asserts that it is, with an exploration of the 40-year evolution of video games as an artistic medium. The Art of Video Games is the first exhibit of its kind, featuring interactive displays of games with striking visual graphics and engaging story lines to prove the point.

Nam June Paik’s Electronic Superhighway is a 49-channel, closed-circuit homage to the Internet. Photo courtesy of Smithsonian American Art Museum

Upon entering the gallery, a video montage of magical cut scenes from Heavy Rain, Minecraft and the Legend of Zelda – to name just a few – greet the visitor, and you know you’ll find a few childhood favorites here. The nostalgia is so thick you could cut it with a laser.

Curator Chris Melissinos, founder of Past Pixels and collector of video games and gaming systems, has gathered more than 80 games through still images and video footage. He portrays the medium as he sees it, combining storytelling, animation, music and cinematography to create art that reaches beyond traditional definitions.

The cyber-building-block game of Minecraft is loved by many for its Lego-like qualities. Photo courtesy of Smithsonian American Art Museum

Offering an opportunity for gamesters to plug into the exhibit, five classic titles are available to play: Pac-Man, Super Mario Brothers, The Secret of Monkey Island, Myst and Flower. While you may only get a few minutes of gameplay, you’ll gain insight about the creative process by watching interviews with producers and developers.

Jenova Chen wanted Flower to be a working poem – both beautiful and calming – so he created an opportunity for players to become the wind, breathing life into the world by gathering and carrying vibrantly colored petals. Adopting the role of one of the five elements, a feeling of peace, joy, freedom and sadness washed over me. And isn’t that what effective art is all about?

A collection of historic game consoles, tinny music, and 8-bit characters would almost be laughable, if not for the tone of reverence in these halls. Some have come to browse while others have come to worship. Let’s just say you’ll know who’s who by their garb.

Don’t miss Megatron Matrix, a conglomeration of 215 monitors by Nam June Paik that fuses images from the Seoul Olympics with those of Korean folk art rituals to portray a world without borders in the digital age. The assault of stimuli is alluring yet overwhelming, which might well be the point.

The Art of Video Games will surely fuel an ongoing debate. This exhibit isn’t just for people who grew up with a joy stick in one hand and a piece of pizza in the other; it’s for the confused parent and the armchair anthropologist, as well. Above all, it’s the highlight of day that illustrates that art can be anywhere, and it can certainly be fun.

Art-o-mat
Upon exiting The Art of Video Games, don’t miss a retrofitted cigarette vending machine that happily dispenses delightful, diminutive works of art. Art-o-mat is the brainchild of Clark Whittington, who first used it as part of his art installation in Winston-Salem, North Carolina in 1997. The moment became a movement, and Artists in Cellophane was born.

The Art-o-Mat on the museum’s third floor dispenses unique souvenirs of a trip to the city. Photo by Elaine Jean

Now over 400 artists in 10 different countries contribute to the inventory in dozens of machines, one on the third floor of the Smithsonian American Art Museum. Drop a $5 bill in and choose from the offerings – fiber art, mini landscape paintings and the mysterious Mind’s Eye. Then pull the knob and … kerchunk … you’re an art collector.

Unlike the cigarette machines of old, this is a life-affirming venture. Proceeds go to the contributing artists as well as to the sponsoring museum.

Matchbox
Within walking distance, at 713 H Street NW, is Matchbox. You’ll know it when you see it by the flames emanating from a gigantic ashtray on the roof. Don’t worry; it’s all part of a well-executed theme that included wooden menus and warm decor.

Formerly a Chinese grocery store, Matchbox has made innovative use of its tall, narrow building. Photo by Paul Jean

Inside a tall, narrow row house that looks a bit like a matchbox and was once a Chinese grocery store, wood-fired pizza pies are produced and served. The space is at once lofty, trendy and cozy, with painted ductwork and exposed brick walls. Outdoor tables expand the restaurant’s seating capacity in good weather.

The pizza gets rave reviews, as does the plate of 3-6-9 Angus beef mini burgers topped with crispy onion rings. Appetizers, salads, entrees and desserts round out the menu, along with an excellent selection of wines, microbrews and other beverages. Brunch is offered on both Saturday and Sunday.

Matchbox’s pizzas are some of the best in the District, with one location in Chinatown and the other on Capitol Hill. Photo by Paul Jean

At Matchbox, pizza and burgers are elevated to a winning level. What better way to end a day devoted to the art of the video game than at a restaurant devoted to the love of hand-held food?

When you go …

• The Smithsonian American Art Museum is at 8^th and F Streets NW.
• Hours are from 11:30 a.m. – 7 p.m.
• The nearest Metro station is Gallery Place/Chinatown.
• Admission is free.
• The exhibit runs through September 30, 2012.

It’s all about looking ahead, not gazing in the rear view mirror.

Paul and I founded roamingtheplanet.com over a year ago, in answer to changes that were taking place in the freelance writer’s marketplace and in our own lives. Newspapers were downsizing rapidly as was our family, and it just made sense to stay busy.  For us that’s always meant jumping in the car to find a hidden gem that’s either around the corner or across the state.

After many years of sightseeing with kids in tow, we now view the world differently as a result of our more recent travels. I’ve never been much of a history buff, but I’m proud to say I’ve learned enough to piece together the sequence of events that has delivered us from there to here as Virginians.  And after nearly 20 years as a resident, the Old Dominion State has become my newfound home.

Paul’s always been the family photographer and community chronicler – he actually burned out a shutter taking over 20,000 photos for two local swim teams. But as a day tripper he has become increasingly dissatisfied with photography that serves a singular purpose. Paul has begun to parallel my stories in a way that sometimes makes me wonder whether we need words at all.

So this week, after a brief history lesson, Paul will be the one to tell the story.

A Ghost Town Just Outside the Beltway
Destination: Great Falls Park

The photographic journey that follows is to Great Falls Park, located just outside Washington, D.C., and administered by the National Park System.

Here the Potomac River drops a dramatic 76 feet in less than a mile on its trip to the Chesapeake Bay, making one of the more spectacular natural settings in the DC area. Locals know to visit the falls early in the day to enjoy the majestic scenery sans tourists.

Often visitors walk past all that remains of a town on the Matildaville Road Trail without stopping to consider the significance of the site. But at the end of the 18^th century, this small town was an important part of George Washington’s big dream.

To circumvent the steep, jagged rocks of Great Falls and the narrow opening of Mather Gorge, the Founding Father proposed a canal that would open up the river for commerce. And so the Patowmack Canal Company was born in 1784.

Work began in 1785 and included the construction of a series of five locks that would be used to successfully raise and lower thousands of boats to facilitate their journeys. Building crews blasted through sheer cliffs of rock with black powder, perilously completing the final three locks in 1802.

Matildaville was sponsored by Harry “Light Horse” Lee in 1790 and sprung up as a company town, its neatly laid out streets including a superintendent’s house, market, inn, taverns, ice house, grist mill, sawmill and foundry. Workers lived in barracks, boarding houses and small homes. Notable people ate at Dickeys Inn, an establishment said to have hosted both George Washington and Theodore Roosevelt.

During its 26 years in service, the canal moved flour, whiskey, tobacco, corn, furs, iron ore and timber on flatboats powered by boatmen with poles. It did not generate enough revenue to cover the high cost of construction, with high and low water levels compounding the problem.

In 1828 the Potowmack Company went bankrupt and was purchased by the young upstart Chesapeake & Ohio Canal Company.  It was never utilized by the C&O canal system but instead abandoned to become protected, along with the remains of Matildaville, by the Archeological Resources Protection Act of 1979.

While Matildaville’s fate was tied to that of the Patowmack Canal Company, and the town ceased to be of any real importance after the canal shut down, Dickeys Inn continued to operate until 1935 and later burned down in 1950.

That Dickeys Inn was still serving meals a mere 62 years ago is what makes the ruins of the Patowmack Canal and Matildaville so fascinating – feeling both ancient and recent at the same time.

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All photos by Paul Jean

When you go …

• Great Falls Park is open every day of the year except Christmas.
• Park hours are currently 7 a.m. – dark.
• The entrance fee is $5 per car.
• Information, brochures and maps are available at the Visitors Center, opening at 10 a.m.

In the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia, “What a long, strange trip it’s been.”

Last Saturday we explored the other Woodstock, traveled back in time through a covered bridge, stopped by a potato chip factory in the middle of nowhere and ended up at a warehouse full of parade floats. At one point I seriously had to question the ‘shrooms I’d had on my pizza the night before.

Woodstock Café
By the time we got to Woodstock … We were very hungry. And a stop at the Woodstock Café – known in the valley for yummy hot and cold beverages, breakfast pastries, egg sandwiches and an array of lunch foods – was positively groovy.

The Woodstock Café serves up freshly brewed coffee, great food and small town friendliness. Photo by Paul Jean

But first, the cinnamon roll. My flaky little friend.

I could go on forever about its yeasty goodness, its sticky-yet-not-sicky-sweet presence.  For this reason alone I would recommend a detour off I-81 to Woodstock, Virginia. But don’t miss the blackboard menu of other items – sandwiches, quiches, soups and salads.

They also stock an eclectic collection of gifts – some from Ten Thousand Villages, supplier of fair trade items and purveyor of a certain peace-love-happiness vibe. The Woodstock Café’s wine shop is impressive, with several bottles boasting scores over 90 from the Wine Spectator.

Before rolling out of town, stroll Main Street and visit the Valley Farmhouse for gourmet goodies and giftees to bring home, as well as Three French Hens for antiques with country flair.

The Valley Farmhouse boasts more than 90 different wines from over 26 Virginia wineries. Photo by Paul Jean

Meems Bottom Covered Bridge

Continue south on Route 11, where time appears to stand still, to the town of Mt. Jackson. About one mile past the Shenandoah River crossing, take a right on Wissler Road to the 204-foot-long, single span Meems Bottom Covered Bridge.

The Meems Bottom Covered Bridge is the only timber covered bridge maintained by VDOT as a traffic thoroughfare. Photo by Paul Jean

The longest of five preserved timber-covered bridges on public property in Virginia, it effectively shuttled vehicles across the North Fork for 80 years until vandals burned it down on Halloween of 1976. The bridge was rebuilt from salvaged timbers, with the addition of fire retardant materials for good measure.

Its interior has retained the geometric beauty of the original, and you’ll enjoy the same view as our 19^th century counterparts  if you take a few minutes to contemplate the ceiling.

Franklin Wissler had the burr-arch truss bridge built on his property in 1894 so he could avoid traveling in a roundabout manner. Photo by Paul Jean

Route 11 Potato Chip Factory
The folks at the Route 11 Potato Chip Factory are coming up on their 20^th anniversary in business as one of Virginia’s premier micro-chippers. And while they’ve gained in popularity over two decades, they still set a high priority on maintaining quality by producing America’s favorite munchies in small batches.

Catch a fry viewing and watch Route 11 chips exit the cooker on Monday – Saturday from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. Photo Courtesy of Route 11 Potato Chips.

Visit the company store for lightly salted, barbeque, dill pickle, sour cream and chive, salt and vinegar, Chesapeake crab, sweet potato, Yukon gold and Mama Zuma’s Revenge chips, sold in bags and tins.

You can observe the process through huge windows in the company’s retail store at 11 Edwards Way, just minutes from the covered bridge. If you’re visiting specifically to view the frying action, it is best to call ahead (540-477-9664).

American Celebration on Parade at Shenandoah Caverns
Earl Hargrove Jr. loves a parade. Lucky for us, he shares that passion in a 40,000-square-foot warehouse filled with nearly 30 of his favorite floats – spangly, sparkly works of art that tower over visitors in psychedelic glory. Subtle they’re not, but there’s more to these creative constructions than meets the eye.

The floats gathered here represent the collective pride we feel at the inauguration of our presidents, the celebration of our most important holidays and even the coronation of our beauty queens. You feel the love the minute you walk through the door.

This is one parade that won’t pass you by – you can view at your own pace and appreciate the finer details. Photo by Paul Jean

Larger-than-life animated polar bears frolic in snow banks, and a sea serpent tows King Neptune’s chariot; both are veterans of Rose Parades held in Pasadena on New Year’s Days past. One of the most impressive pieces—a 30-foot-tall genie named Three Wishes – measures 47 feet from end to end and appears to be ready for your biggest commands.

Playful Antics was a prize winner in the 1998 Rose Parade, and now you can push buttons to see its polar bears romp in the snow. Photo by Paul Jean

Many of the floats are interactive and some allow passengers onboard, so bring your camera – this is one museum that welcomes flash photography.

A Dixieland style float features a banjo-playing pelican, as well as a clever cutaway that reveals the wizard behind the curtain. You’ll learn a little about parade float technology and a lot about the company that’s responsible for the whimsical worlds portrayed in the Rose Parade, the Miss America Parade, and the Philadelphia Thanksgiving Day Parade.

Mr. Hargrove hand-tufted the 35-foot-long Rolls Royce Phantom 111 that’s available to rent for special of occasions. Photo by Paul Jean

Hargrove got his start decking department store windows for the holidays in the 1940s, and now his company is proud to set the stage for trade shows and special events such as both the Republican and the Democratic National Conventions. These folks are bipartisan party planners who know how to roll out the red carpet.

This 100-foot-long steam-powered float appeared in Clinton’s Inaugural Parade in 1997 and was voted favorite by visitors in 2007. Photo by Paul Jean

One admission price — $23 for adults and $10 for children 6 – 14 – gains access to American Celebration on Parade‘s floats, Main Street Yesteryear’s department store windows, the Yellow Barn’s tribute to farm life and Shenandoah Caverns unique formations.

Kids love the Yellow Barn’s indoor, working bee hive and the 35-foot-tall tree house that hosts a five-foot-tall family of squirrels. Parents love the wine tastings, as well as a good selection of microbrews and Virginia food products. The Yellow Barn hosts special events, and upcoming is the Ozark Jubilee on May 5 at 3 p.m. for an additional fee.

The Yellow Barn offers wine tastings and a great selection of Virginia’s finest products. Photo by Paul Jean

When you go …

• Woodstock Café is open Monday – Friday 8 a.m. – 6 p.m., Saturday and Sunday 9 a.m. – 5 p.m., Thursday until 9 p.m.
• Route 11 Potato Chip Factory is to the public Monday – Saturday from 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. and closed on Sundays and major holidays.
• Hours at Shenandoah Caverns vary by season, and attractions are now open at 9 a.m. with no tours given after 5:15 p.m.

Stand where Ronald Reagan did and have your photo taken on an inaugural float. Photo by Paul Jean

Spring is in the air and Eastern Market is bursting with fresh flowers and good things to eat, as well as arts, crafts and antiques. A visit to one of the nation’s oldest open air markets is a nod to blue skies and sunny days ahead.

The Italianate brick Eastern Market draws locals and tourists year-round. All photos by Paul Jean

Built in 1873, Eastern Market was originally intended as a place to distribute provisions and create a sense of community. It still does both quite nicely.

Local favorite Market Lunch serves the best breakfast around, but never on a Sunday. So if you want to try the blueberry buckwheat pancakes – affectionately called “Blue Bucks” – or their colossal egg, potato, cheese and meat sandwich known simply as “the Brick,” arrive at South Hall early on a Saturday and prepare to be friendly.

Market Lunch’s blackboard displays offerings of the day, including the crowd pleasing Blue Bucks.

This is a cash-only establishment, and diners cue up in a line that looks long but moves quickly. Put your order in at the counter and read the posted rules while you wait, then be seated at a communal table and meet your neighbors. Washington insiders rub elbows – literally – with suburbanites and tourists, and a theme of congeniality carries throughout the day.

Spring flowers decorate the market and, quite possibly, your table at home.

After breakfast, be sure not to linger at the table – that’s one of the written rules. You won’t want to when you see the collection of butchers, seafood mongers, bakers and cheese vendors that fill the adjacent South Hall Market. This Italianate-style pavilion was rebuilt after suffering a three-alarm fire in 2007, and now it’s better than ever.

Eastern Market features a wide array of fruits and veggies that foodies love to explore.

The family-owned businesses that fill the market have been here for decades. Bowers Fancy Dairy Products has been supplying Washingtonians with their cholesterol fix for over fifty years, purveying a wide array of domestic and international cheeses as well as local dairy items. They happily pass out samples so you can taste the difference that quality and freshness make.

Coffee and pastries are available for on-the-go snacks.

Eastern Market is, in fact, all about quality: Canales’ Italian Prosciutto, Calomiris’ Greek honey and olive oil, the Fine Sweet Shop’s Kosher baked goods and Union Meat Company’s half smokes, knockwurst and kielbasa are just a few of the items that foodies come to hunt and gather every week.

Shumba brings a happy vibe to the corner of 7th and C.

Tables brim with produce and shoppers chat with vendors along Farmers Line on the weekends, when an open-air market spills out of the building. Much of the produce sold here is from the rural areas of Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland, Delaware and Pennsylvania.

The 7th street thoroughfare in front of the market is closed to vehicles on the weekends, and the resulting pedestrian mall is home to booths, tables and stalls selling a variety of handmade items – jewelry, soaps, children’s clothing, sketches, watercolor paintings and other artwork.

Artist Manatho Shumba Masani is set up at the corner of 7^th and C Streets, where he’s been working wire and soda containers into Canimals for more than six years. Shumba’s cleaning up the planet one can at a time while showcasing contemporary music and Zimbabwean sculpting techniques. His trademark giraffe is a favorite for its expressive face and graceful features. Who knew Arizona Iced Tea cans could look this good?

The Canimals Shumba creates are cleaning up the planet while making it a more beautiful place.

Market Pottery is located in the basement of South Hall, and you can enter by walking around Shumba’s booth and past the patriotic panels that have been painted by his neighbor. Here local artisans have been meeting for over 50 years, displaying and selling the works of a half-dozen potters in the front room.

Market Pottery operates down under the market, where it has been located for fifty years.

Capitol Hill Flea Market is entering its 29^th year, regularly featuring antiques, photography, jewelry and crafts. Red Persimmon Imports offers handmade, fair trade gifts and accessories, and Olde Good Things brings architectural elements – stained glass, iron fencing, pressed tin and marble mantles they’ve salvaged from grand old buildings. A number of food vendors dot the landscape, selling everything from empanadas to falafel.

Nearby popular attractions include the Library of Congress and US Botanic Gardens, and restaurants line the portion of 8^th Street known as Barracks Row.

The Barrack’s Row Heritage Trail takes about an hour to complete, with the first sign located at 7^th Street and Pennsylvania Avenue near the train station. A free guidebook – available for download at http://www.culturaltourismdc.org – will lead you through the stomping ground of march king and “Semper Fidelis” composer John Philip Sousa.

Wares at the Capitol Hill Flea Market reflect the eclectic tastes of residents.

The trail passes the Marine Barracks – the oldest continuously manned post in the United States Marines – as well as the historic Washington Navy Yard, its car barn and other points of interest. Interpretive signage brings into focus the residents of Barracks Row residents who’ve lived and worked here, serving their country.

The Capitol Hill Flea Market has been called an incubator for small businesses such as Red Persimmon Imports.

Eastern Market features live music most weekends and special events throughout the year. Upcoming on May 21 from 6-9 p.m. is the Lamb Jam, where “DC’s top chefs will be cooking lamb just for ewe.” To purchase tickets visit http://store.americanlamb.com.

When you go …

• Finding on-street parking on Capitol Hill requires patience.
• Visit us.parkmobile.com and download an app to pay the meter by phone.
• There is a Colonial Parking garage on Pennsylvania Avenue.
• Eastern Market is closed on Mondays.

Story copyright 2012, Elaine C. Jean. All rights reserved.
Photos copyright 2012, Paul N. Jean. All rights reserved.

March brings two kinds of madness to town – basketball and beer – and while both involve dribbling, the latter makes a fine day trip for people of all fitness levels. Wear your Chucks, because you’ll be following the trail of DC’s love affair with beer over the past century.

The Brewmaster’s Castle

Rooms in the Heurich House are a snapshot of affluent life during the late-Victorian era. All photos taken by Paul Jean

The stately European home of turn-of-the-century beer baron Christian Heurich (1307 New Hampshire Ave., NW) casts a massive shadow in Dupont Circle, pleasantly incongruous with its surroundings.  Office buildings, embassies, residences and restaurants make this area of Northwest a thriving enclave – not the place you’d expect to find a 19^th century Victorian castle.

Many of the original furnishings and décor remain in their gilded and glamorous settings.

But Dupont Circle has changed a bit since its development in 1871. At that time the Army Corps of Engineers began work on its traffic hub, in accordance with Pierre L’Enfant’s plan. During the decade that followed the area became a fashionable neighborhood for affluent Washingtonians.

Surrounding buildings are in stark contrast when viewed through the castle’s conservatory.

Christian Heurich purchased the Schnell Brewery and Tavern at M and 20^th Streets in 1872 and turned it into the Christian Heurich Brewing Company, where he made beer and lived with his first wife, a servant and several employees. But when an explosion in the malt mill caused a huge fire, he decided to build a fireproof mansion to call his own in the tony part of town.

His Richardsonian Romanesque home was completed in 1894 is now open to the public for tours and events. Heavy wood, mosaic tiles and faux finishes fill rooms with 13-foot ceilings, and belongings reflect the eclectic German baronial Renaissance taste of its owner.

When you enter the front hallway – replete with personal touches that include a full suit of armor – you become acquainted with Christian Heurich, a German immigrant who arrived in America with just $200 in his pocket. This was a man who loved his family, his heritage and his beer.

A one-hour, docent-led tour brings you through the main rooms. The most elaborate is the front parlor, with ornate furniture and celestial ceiling decorations. A nearby music room with hand-carved interior musician’s balcony makes it easy to imagine an evening of entertainment here.

Music once flowed from the musicians’ gallery to an appreciative audience below.

Those having a meal in the heavily oaked dining room – surrounded by parquet floors and carved wooden walls, ceiling, mantle and furniture– may have been joined at the table by Michael, a particularly creepy little doll that resides on the sideboard. Mrs. Heurich was said to be superstitious, so she enlisted Michael to take a seat when a 14^th guest was needed.

Ornately carved oak is displayed in every room of the Brewmaster’s Castle.

You’ll linger in a conservatory that’s still gorgeous by today’s standards, and then continue upstairs to see graciously appointed bedrooms. But the most interesting part of the tour may be the basement.

Here the bierstube is found, modeled after a German ale house. Its ornate wooden centerpiece is carved with creatures ranging from the romantic to the grotesque and adorned with beer steins. You half expect the St. Pauli Girl to appear, a sentiment shared by several on the tour. This room was originally used as Heurich’s man cave, but was later turned into the family’s breakfast room.

The Heurich family enjoyed breakfast in the bierstube, surrounded by beer steins and inspirational sayings on the topic of imbibing.

Heurich enjoyed state of the art systems in his home – including central heating and cooling, an intercom and a burglar alarm – and the boiler room is a turn-of-the-century marvel of engineering. Most of the home’s eight bathrooms are in their original condition, and its 15 fireplaces have never been used – perhaps due to a more than healthy respect for fire.

The Heurich House is a masterpiece of craftsmanship and design, reflecting the eclectic taste of its owner.

The new brewery opened in 1895 where the Kennedy Center now stands. It produced over 500,000 barrels of beer a year, surviving Prohibition by garnering a contract to supply ice to Congress and the Supreme Court. At the time of his death in 1945 Heurich had become the world’s oldest brewer, departing at the age of 102 with words he lived by: “Practice moderation and drink Heurich’s beer.”

Christian Heurich’s final days are imagined in “The Brewmaster’s Castle,” a comic by writer Matt Dembicki and cartoonist Andrew Cohen, available from the docent for $4.  Dembicki works in an office building with a view of the mansion and was inspired to create the graphic short story after visiting and learning about Heurich.

The Heurich House is open to visitors, with guided tours by trained docents on Thursdays and Fridays at 11:30 a.m. and 1 p.m. and Saturdays at 11:30 a.m., 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. The admission fee is $5. Cash and checks are accepted.

Washington, DC’s first fireproof house was completed in 1894 and is made of reinforced steel and poured concrete.

Pizzeria Paradiso

Fast forward to the present: Pizzeria Paradiso (2003 P St., NW). This place proves that Washingtonians still like their beer. Over 200 bottled varieties and one cask ale, as well as a dozen drafts, are served at the correct temperature and in the proper barware.

Neapolitan-style pizzas are baked in a 650-degree wood-burning oven, making some of the best pies in the city. Favorites include Margherita, Atomica and Quattro Formaggio, with dozens of toppings offered so you can make them your way. While the restaurant is known for elevating the classic combination of pizza and beer, they offer appetizers, desserts, other beverages and a wine list.

Pizzeria Paradiso provides a great spot for the classic pairing of pizza and beer in the heart of the city.

The Bier Baron

The Brickskeller. The Brick. The epicenter of DC’s beer culture for five decades.

While the Brickskeller is no more, the Bier Baron occupies its former building on hallowed ground at 1523 22^nd St., NW. It’s said that some of the original tables from 1957 are still in use today, and you’ll know that’s entirely possible when you visit.

For a true dive bar experience, bypass the newly renovated dining room and descend to the basement. This is a genuine hole-in-the-wall that’s a beloved institution among beer aficionados, as well as the famous and the infamous.

The Bier Baron is an institution among the city’s hopheads and malt lovers.

Aldrich Ames met Soviet operatives at the Brick, and owner Dave Alexander alerted the authorities when he recognized Aldrich’s photo on TV. Now the place has changed hands and the food’s been upgraded, but the emphasis on beer the same as it ever was.

Fifty rare draft brews, cask ales and over 500 bottled beers are offered from around the world, and $15 gets you six 4-ounce pours if you can’t decide. The Bier Baron is open ‘til 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, so take your time.

When you go …

• The closest Metro stop is Dupont Circle on the Red Line.
• On-street parking is limited, but several parking garages serve the area.
• Central Parking operates a garage at 11 Dupont Circle (enter on New Hampshire Ave.).
• Discounted parking is $7 all day Saturday with a coupon.
• Visit http://washingtondc.centralparking.com to print.